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Let's build Antonio a Rubicon Ready Range Rover Classic

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31 replies to this topic

#21
RON CT110

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This is starting to be a great thread Antonio on the NCLR site. Keep it coming. Lift done. Next...

I am going to have Pedram build me a bumper just like Ron's too. I like it too.

How soon do you need the bumper? I can ask him how much he wants to build you a bumper.

I will let you know about the tires. I am not looking in getting them right away. I already have smaller tires line up for now till I get some money and buy better tires and steel wheels. All though your offer sounds tempting:)

I will keep you posted.


Tread Lightly Trainer: http://www.treadlightly.org/
SPOT Adventures: http://www.spotadven...?trip_id=178167
"Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but by the moments that take our breath away" - Anonymous


#22
AA Journey

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I will talk to Pedram about the bumper. I am sure he can build it. I am going to Volunteer my RRC for the cause of others.:) If you guys like the end product then you guys can place your order. I am sure he will build it for almost half the price of what ever you paid for it run.

I will keep you posted.

AA

#23
AA Journey

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Do you know how long it takes for the springs to settle? Ron, do you know any local shops the can modify my driveshaft? I think I need to get that extended or get a longer one. Any suggestions?

THANKS!
AA

#24
astateofmike

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Do you know how long it takes for the springs to settle? Ron, do you know any local shops the can modify my driveshaft? I think I need to get that extended or get a longer one. Any suggestions?

THANKS!
AA


AA,

If you are in the east bay, especially tri valley, Bayshore Truck Equipment in Livermore off of Vasco and Las Positas (near the not so secret lab) is the place. You can drive it in, go across the way for coffee and lunch and then come back and get it depending on what you are having done....

#25
RON CT110

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Do you know how long it takes for the springs to settle? Ron, do you know any local shops the can modify my driveshaft? I think I need to get that extended or get a longer one. Any suggestions?

THANKS!
AA


Seen my new OME lift on my DII settled an inch less after driving about 500 miles which is normal for OME springs I understand.

Mike poiinted out Bayshore Truck for driveshaft service.

But before you get a new driveshaft - are you getting any vibration right now w/the new lift and current tires?

Also are you also planning to swap the BW transfer case for LTA230 or run the stock BW transfer case?

Tread Lightly Trainer: http://www.treadlightly.org/
SPOT Adventures: http://www.spotadven...?trip_id=178167
"Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but by the moments that take our breath away" - Anonymous


#26
AA Journey

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Yes, there is some vibration coming from the front and I think is from the driveshaft. It only vibrates when go over 55 mph. I checked the driveshaft to see how much it extended after the lift and it looks like about an inch.

I am thinking in leaving the current transfer case for now. No plans to replace it soon.

After installing the lift kit the car drives very unstable. It needs lots of correction to stay in the lane. It this typical? I will be installing a new steering damper in the front and replace the one it currently has behind the differential. Hopefully that will help and drive more stable. I will also have it align. Any suggestions in what i need to do to get the steering back to normal?

Thanks!
AA

#27
RON CT110

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Yes, there is some vibration coming from the front and I think is from the driveshaft. It only vibrates when go over 55 mph. I checked the driveshaft to see how much it extended after the lift and it looks like about an inch.


Take off the front driveshaft and see if it still vibrates; if it goes away, you know it's the culprit.

After installing the lift kit the car drives very unstable. It needs lots of correction to stay in the lane. It this typical?

I will be installing a new steering damper in the front and replace the one it currently has behind the differential.

Hopefully that will help and drive more stable. I will also have it align. Any suggestions in what i need to do to get the steering back to normal?


Anytime you lift a vehicle, the suspension geometry (camber, toe and caster) changes. Camber will change the most. I'd suggest a full alignment.

But before you get an align, are you planning to run HD tie-rod, relocate the steering damper upfront, and get new steering rod sooner or later?

If sooner, might want to wait to install the rods so you only to do the alignment once.

Also check the tire pressure; my RRC manual said to run 28 psi in the front and 41 in the rear (check when cold). When I first installed my 33s, I was running 35 psi all around; it felt unstable driving curvy roads. Dropped the front to 28 psi (rear 41 psi w/back fully loaded) and seems a lot of stable.

Caster will change when the relationship between front and rear ride heights change. When the rear of the vehicle is lower than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the vehicle is higher than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive caster.

Yes, relocating the steering damper from behind the diff to the front is a good idea; I am running OME steering damper on all my 3 LRs; no complains and seems more stable/firm.

Tread Lightly Trainer: http://www.treadlightly.org/
SPOT Adventures: http://www.spotadven...?trip_id=178167
"Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but by the moments that take our breath away" - Anonymous


#28
AA Journey

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Thank you Ron for the recommendations. I will try them and hopefully that will make all the difference.

Yes, I am planning to get HD tie-rods soon, so I will probably wait to get the alignment. I will let you know how all this works.

Thanks again!

#29
Guest_Pedram_*

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Wow.... How things have changed... I miss that classic.

#30
GraemeWare

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Take off the front driveshaft and see if it still vibrates; if it goes away, you know it's the culprit.
Anytime you lift a vehicle, the suspension geometry (camber, toe and caster) changes. Camber will change the most.


Challenge from the crowd:

(a) please explain how camber will change on a solid axle vehicle.
(B) since you can't change the caster easily (so no alignment shop will change this at all), the camber is fixed (unless you've bent an axle) the only thing you can change is the toe. That you can do with two pieces of string (or wood, or metal), and a tape measure. Probably more accurately than a 3-point mounted laser.

And pinion bearing or transfer box output bearing can cause the same vibration as the drive shaft itself, so removal of the shaft isn't a sure-fire way of blaming the drive shaft. My D2 is an example. I have a driveline whine that completely goes away when the front shaft is out. Colin told me that shaft was the best balanced/quietest he'd ever used on his classic (and I've tried another on the D2 as well).

Regards,

Graeme

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#31
GraemeWare

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Let the pictures speak for themselves.

http://web.me.com/an...ic_Project.html


I'd like to see them, but that link takes me to a login page for something from a closed-minded company that clearly doesn't want to share your photos with me ....

Graeme

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#32
Guest_Pedram_*

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I'd like to see them, but that link takes me to a login page for something from a closed-minded company that clearly doesn't want to share your photos with me ....

Graeme



You do realize your asking a guy who changes cars like shoes to post pictures. Antonio moves on with everything.

I want my logo to be a single bit from a bad apple.




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