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SD rack re-coat with POR-15
Posted 20 March 2012 - 08:46 AM
Posted 20 March 2012 - 10:26 AM
Posted 21 March 2012 - 05:14 PM
Posted 21 March 2012 - 06:06 PM
04 Discovery 2-Trail truck- RTE 3in with fox 2.0 shocks, $g rear cones ,$G front bumper with Warn XD9000i custom rear,ARB's air lockers F&R with Ashcroft 4.12 w/reverse cut front , Ashcroft HD axles/CV's, RTE diff guards F&R , Max Yedor HD tie rod and track rod,custom watts, 255/85-16 MAXXIS MT-762 BIGHORN
Posted 22 March 2012 - 07:47 PM
Posted 24 March 2012 - 08:19 PM
1. After opening the lid, immediately use pieces of tape around the rim. If any paint is on the lip when stored, you won't be able to remove the lid next time.
2. Definitely use another container for painting. This is when having the tape around the rim is good. Use a small cup to fill you paint container, and you won't have to worry about dripping paint on the lip.
3. Wear gloves! If you get this stuff on your hands it'll stay there for weeks. I did find that heavy scrubbing with a green Scotch pad will remove paint (got some on me during cleanup) but it tears up your skin. If it's totally dry this may not work.
However there were a few hiccups.
I filled a smaller plastic container to dip the brush into, the last bit of paint was a little frothy (I guess) and the bubbles didn't pop. The paint dried with a rough surface in these areas (the paint is normally glossy and very smooth). The other issue is that some of the paint ran down the tubing after I went inside and dried lumpy. I've emailed the makers of POR 15 about these two issues in hope there's a somewhat easy fix.
Here are some updated pics. I don't have any of the trouble areas, but will get some before my next step.
Edited by Disco2Guy, 24 March 2012 - 08:29 PM.
Posted 01 April 2012 - 08:46 PM
The drips were like Rice Krispies on the inside and they were easy to cut off. The sandpaper worked pretty well to smooth out the paint. It wasn't as tough as I thought it would be but will take some time to get it where I want. A small block of wood under the sandpaper worked well to smooth the rougher areas and saved some wear on my fingers. No pics now, but I'll get some after the sanding is complete.
Edited by Disco2Guy, 01 April 2012 - 08:49 PM.
Posted 01 April 2012 - 09:11 PM
95 LWB RRC 3 inch rte lt-230, 35x12.5/15 bfg km2, GBR 4.14 with trutracs front and rear, Rovertracks front Hd axles and cv's, Ashcroft Hd rear axles,
Rte rear trailing arms,Warn 8k, RTE bumpers front and rear with P-Fab Mods, Flowmaster exhaust ,custom sliders GRB F+R driveshaft, RTE steering links. 12 in Bilstien 7100's
Posted 13 May 2012 - 06:31 PM
This round of painting I tried a 2" foam brush instead of the bristle hair. Initially I thought the foam brush could cause more bubbles, but so far there it's not too bad. The best thing about the foam brush is no loose hairs. Next time I will cover the top side of the rack. It was difficult to tell which sections were already covered with the Chassis Coat and which sections were still tacky with POR-15. Because of this, and the fact that the POR-15 is NOT UV stable, I will do a final coat of Chassis Coat in a rattle can. The fronts of the 8 mounting feet got a first coat of POR-15.
Posted 25 May 2012 - 01:25 PM
Here are some pics I just took out in the parking lot.
Posted 25 May 2012 - 07:46 PM
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Posted 26 May 2012 - 08:08 AM
Worked well also for frame and floor board coating/rust preventive.
I powerwashed, and sanded the surface rust on the frame of my 1990 RRC; then painted it w/POR-15. So far so good, looking good! Then removed all the interior carpet, seats... and then painted POR-15 the floor. Put carpet and seats back. So far so good, solid product. No paint chipping. Paint really bonds to the metal.
I have one extra quart POR-15 in black (brand new in a can); retail cost $47.50 + tax + $7.95 shipping (close to $60 total). Willing to selling it to a club member for $40 and no shipping cost or tax (U pick it up next time we are @ Mexxis for lunch/dinner). Will post it in the for sale forum. PM me if interested. Thanks!
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