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Front Runner LR3 Drawer System

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53 replies to this topic

#41
djoslin

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Thanks Nils, I will give that a try, but how did you get the belt off the floor hold? At least for me the belt goes from the tensioner to the floor cargo area fastened by a steel loop. did you have that, or did you cut it off there?

 

Don


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2011 LR4 HSE
ARB front bumper with WARN XD9000 winch, IPF 900 off-road lights, Voyager ladder, Voyager roof rack, Voyager rock sliders with steps, 2.5 Lift Johnson Rods, 18" Compomotive Wheels, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx 275/65R18, Traxide dual battery kit with Optima Yellowtop D34, Tactical 4x4 rear bumper & tire swing, Frontrunner drawer system & fridge slide, National Luna 52 fridge etc...


#42
NThyrring

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I guess that there was more to it than just talking back to seat belt webbing.

I had forgotten how much time I put into installing the drawers.

I looked through my phone and found some old photos.

I'm out of town for the weekend when I get back on Monday, I'll see if I have some more pictures on my computer.



I removed the third row seats completely. (I still have them if anybody wants them).

I welded up and powder coated a center support bracket that fits into the original threaded inserts of the truck.

I wraped some foam with similar matching carpet to insulate the area around the bracket.

I cut out and routed a new rear deck from MDF, that I wraped with carpet, that fits into the space where the third row seats originally sat.

I then bolted the Front Runner drawer system to the rear deck.

I did not use the stainless steel hooks and come along's that they supplied.

Next I made MDF inserts that sit flush with the top of the drawer system to close off the gap between the drawers in the wall.

These are wrapped with carpet and are easily removable, so that I can access the space between the drawers in the wall.

Finally I fabricated for steel plates that folds directly to the drawer assembly to seal off the space between the drawer in the wall of the truck.

In the space on the passenger side I mounted the inverter and power distribution.

I use the space on the driver side for storage.

Attached Files


  • BEAR, El Solis, TomOwen and 2 others like this
Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#43
BEAR

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that is clean. I'll have to do that to save some weight. the rear seats are just un needed ballast now. 


Concord CA,
2006 LR3 SE with HD
Baja Rack, Gap EAS IID tool, LEDramized 40" light bar and work lights, BFG TA/KO tires, ARB Fridge Freezer, Front Runner Drawers, PowerTank 20lbs Co2 tank, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Traxide duel battery kit. Tactical Rovers Sliders and Rear Bumper

On Instagram @ bear_republic_overland
"waiting for an adventure"

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Instagram https://www.instagra...ublic_overland/

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#44
djoslin

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That's a nice install, I was thinking of adding outlets and an inverter, with your set up is the inverter always running hot or do you have an on off switch you have access to when you need it?


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2011 LR4 HSE
ARB front bumper with WARN XD9000 winch, IPF 900 off-road lights, Voyager ladder, Voyager roof rack, Voyager rock sliders with steps, 2.5 Lift Johnson Rods, 18" Compomotive Wheels, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx 275/65R18, Traxide dual battery kit with Optima Yellowtop D34, Tactical 4x4 rear bumper & tire swing, Frontrunner drawer system & fridge slide, National Luna 52 fridge etc...


#45
NThyrring

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Here is a picture of the plate that I made for the drivers side rear of the drawer system.

You can see it if you lower the driver side center row seat.

I put the controller, 12 V cigarette lighter, and 120 Edison plug here because this is where my refrigerator lives.

Thor sales a remote switch with approximately 25 feet of wire and a mounting plate.

I use a Thor 3K inverter.

I had a 4K, but it was too big.

I am now going to use the 4K in my trailer.

Attached Files


Edited by NThyrring, 29 September 2016 - 01:27 PM.

Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#46
RedRover

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Here is a picture of the plate that I made for the drivers side rear of the drawer system.


I can't see the photo... did it post?

Jared (KJ6MQI)
1992 Range Rover Classic - Portofino Red
2012 Range Rover HSE - Santorini Black

 


#47
djoslin

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Thanks, no picture came in.

I have a 2K inverter I would like to use in the back, but the cig lighter it came with says it can only be used for 300W, so have been hooking it to my battery every time I want to use my zodiac air pump that pulls 1K watts. The power in the cargo runs off the Traxide kit, not sure if there is a way to tap into that to run the 2K inverter.


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2011 LR4 HSE
ARB front bumper with WARN XD9000 winch, IPF 900 off-road lights, Voyager ladder, Voyager roof rack, Voyager rock sliders with steps, 2.5 Lift Johnson Rods, 18" Compomotive Wheels, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx 275/65R18, Traxide dual battery kit with Optima Yellowtop D34, Tactical 4x4 rear bumper & tire swing, Frontrunner drawer system & fridge slide, National Luna 52 fridge etc...


#48
NThyrring

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I added a picture to my last post.
Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#49
NThyrring

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4/0 cable? Crap man, I've got a spool of that laying around from inverter installations but it's crazy big stuff - what on earth would you ever need a 4K inverter for? And really, with the small batteries in a truck how could you run it for any time at that power? On a 4Kw install I'd want a good 1000 amp hours of battery power to keep it happy!

I did a similar run from my secondary battery to right rear corner of the truck.
I used 4/0 cable to a fuse block & distro.
I installed a 4K Thor inverter, with three 120v outlets and six USB's
spread out around the truck.

Here is a picture of the two USB's that I added to the front dash.
The switch to the left is for my bumper mounted LED's.

This is from an old thread.

I don't know how to link it.

In the next post, Don called my "crazy"

I like to think of it as overkill.


Obviously, I don't know how to work this forum posting machine.

Attached Files


Edited by NThyrring, 29 September 2016 - 01:50 PM.

Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#50
GraemeWare

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In the next post, Don called my "crazy"
 

 

Nils,

 

I think he said you had "crazy big stuff" ... but we won't go there ....

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#51
DHappel

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Let's do some maths....

 

3000w @ 120v = 25 amps

3000W @ 12v = 250 amps

 

If you're using a really good pure sine wave low frequency transformer based inverter (which will likely weigh about 40+ lbs and cost around $1200) you might get 90% efficiency from it.  Lower end units can be as bad as 50%.  Let's use a generic 80% efficiency so your 3000w inverter will need 312.5 amps at 12v to reach maximum output.

 

For reference, a cig lighter outlet is rated at 15 amps and really can only do that for a short time.  7 amps continuous is a more realistic number.

 

Now let's consider the power cable sizes needed for that 300+ amp draw.

Here's a good page showing wire size needed based on current draw, allowable voltage drop, and distance run.  Note the distance is the round-trip distance from battery to load and back.

http://assets.bluese...ion_chartlg.jpg

 

This page only goes up to 200 amps but it gives you some ideas of what we're looking at to properly install a big inverter.  You would need to be using the 3% scale as a 10% voltage drop would be unacceptable for something like this.  Remember that as voltage drops current has to go up to keep the same power (watts) and more current means more heat which means more voltage drop which means... you get the picture.

 

With a Rover you would likely be using the chassis as the ground, so we only need to figure the length of wire from the battery through the fuse (you WILL need a fuse) and to the back of the rig where the inverter lives, then the short ground cable from the inverter to the chassis and the short cable from the chassis to the battery negative.  Given it's not a straight shot weaving a cable that big around, let's say it's 20'  Consulting our chart we see 20' @ 200 amps is at the outside envelope for 2/0 cable.  3/0 would be better.  And for our theoretical 300 amp load over such a long distance 4/0 would be needed though it's off the scale for this chart.  There's a reason I mount large inverters on boats very close to batteries!  They can draw 400 amps, so even a cable run of a few feet means 4/0 cable.

 

Have you ever worked with 4/0 cable?  It's massive and very expensive.  Some people use welding cable which is cheaper (but not cheap) but I use tinned copper for marine installations since it's more corrosion resistant.  Here's an idea of pricing:  http://www.westmarin...634?recordNum=1  Don't forget you'll need appropriate lugs and the tools to install them.

 

Now let's consider batteries.  An inverter of this size in a boat would likely be hooked to multiple batteries with a total of around 600-1000 amp hours.  Of course you can't actually use the full capacity of a battery, you really only use 50% of it before it's depleted.  So let's say that's 300-500 amp hours of usable capacity.  So our 300+ amp inverter when running full tilt could operate for a little more than an hour before running the batteries dead.  Assuming it's a good quality unit that can survive that sort of load (cheaper ones will overheat if asked to run at 100% for a long time).

 

On a Rover, you are likely powering an inverter from a second battery of about 80-100 amp hours.  So that means 40-50 A/h of usable power.  At 300 amp draw, your battery would be dead in about 10 minutes.

 

Granted, you won't run at 100% often but it gives you some idea of what sort of figures you're dealing with here.

 

There are all sorts of other issues to consider as well, like charging capacity, but I think you've probably had enough for now.

 

Nills isn't your average bear and has (I think?) an engineering background which explains why he's done things the way he has, but as you can see a 3000+ watt inverter in a Rover is really not a great idea and if you want to get anything like it's full capacity it's a major undertaking.


Don
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#52
DHappel

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Nils,

 

I think he said you had "crazy big stuff" ... but we won't go there ....

 

Graeme

Earlier today I found a large lizard in our back yard.  I was trying to take a picture of it with my foot in the frame for a size reference (it was as long as my foot).  While doing this, I had the thought that if it wanted to, it could turn and scurry up my pant leg which would be ... exciting.  I told Michele about this and her response was 'so you're saying you have a big lizard in your pants?'

 

Apparently she has been hanging out with Graeme....


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

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#53
NThyrring

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Schooled.


Don, that was a great write-up.

Thank you.


My head is swimming.


I ran 4/0 for both the hot and the negative from the battery.

I put a 250 amp fuse in line off the battery.

At the distro I think that I broke it down to125 per side.

Then smaller fuses as the power fanned out from there, 12v cigarette plugs, USB plugs, lighting, etc.


Correct me if I'm wrong;

The reason that I went with such a large inverter was not to use all of the power (ie 3K), but rather to use low draw devices without overtaxing or overheating a crappy/ lesser inverter.

I have no intention of hooking up a 3K incandescent fresnel for 10 minutes.

I just got tired of buying junk inverters at Kragen.

Did I over buy?

Post Script:

My degrees are in technical theater.

Which makes me a jack of all trades, master of none.
Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#54
DHappel

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The only real negative to having a large inverter but only using a portion of its capacity is that they tend to be most efficient at maximum output. I don't know the physics bihind that but pulling 100 watts from a 3000 watt inverter is likely less efficient than pulling 100 watts from a 1000 watt inverter. And of course the added cost/complexity of installing the larger inverter is a factor.

Don
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