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LR3/4 Owners, Beware of the dreaded coolant bleeder valve

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10 replies to this topic

#1
Teds

Teds

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After a fantastic adventure through the Sierra's spending a few days at White Rock Lake, we were heading back on 80 toward home. We were climbing the Donner grade when Cara radios that the check engine light came on in the LR3. I asked her to check temp, which she stated was in the middle. We crested the hill and then she radios back temps are climbing and we pull over. Thankfully, there was plenty of space as we pulled into a chain install shoulder on the side of 80. Pop the hood to the smell of coolant. Ugh... After wrestling to get the engine cover off (left me small ratchet set at home) it was immediately apparent what had happened.

On top to the engine, there are two small coolant pipes connected with a plastic coolant bleeder valve with metal cap. It had disintegrated. I started picking out pieces of this cheap plastic as it fell apart in my hand. Rummaged through my tools and didn't find an adequate connector. Decided to fill the system and then capped off each pipe with a ratchet extension since it didn't look vital to the system. Put on two more hose clamps for safety and taped it up. Refilled the system with water and thankfully made it home. Picked up a straight pipe from from Napa for a temp fix so she could drive it yesterday.

Picked up the part at LR Rocklin ($13), flushed the system last night and filled it up. Talking to the service guy, they change these every 60k miles on customer cars as this is a common weak point of the system.

If you haven't changed yours and you have over 50k miles, CHANGE IT before it becomes an issue. I searched online, and there are countless people who have had the same issue.

I have also ordered a full metal bleeder valve from Falconworks in AZ which I will install when it arrives. No chance of crappy plastic parts breaking. (http://www.falconwor...ing_upgrade.htm)

Hope this saves one of you from a tow home. I am also building up a better set of spare parts and bought different sized connectors and hose clamps from Napa in case of emergency.

Thanks Rupert for stopping by and offering assistance.

I will post pics later...
2001 Range Rover SE - SD rack, Warn XD9000CE, front axle guard, steering guard, sliders, ladder, coils, 33in KM2s
2006 LR3 SE - ARB bumper with Superwinch EP9, roof rack, Sasquatch Rods

#2
DHappel

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After seeing two of what are basically the same thing fail on two different Rovers over the course of one trip, I though I should check mine. Sure enough, I've still got the OEM plastic one. Although it looks fine, I'll replace it with brass.

Thanks for the head's up Ted.

Here's a photo of the offending part (I'm pointing at it with the extension). Notice the cap is brass, while the body is plastic - brilliant!

Posted Image

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#3
Teds

Teds

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That's it! Becomes brittle plastic and eventually breaks. I also read the thermostat housing, also plastic, can develop cracks. Will be replacing that as general maintenance at 100k miles.

Funny how a very similar plastic part broke on Sean's D90 first day of the trip. A three outlet coolant connection on 1/4 inch hose.
2001 Range Rover SE - SD rack, Warn XD9000CE, front axle guard, steering guard, sliders, ladder, coils, 33in KM2s
2006 LR3 SE - ARB bumper with Superwinch EP9, roof rack, Sasquatch Rods

#4
LATEAPEX

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Glad you got it sorted out Ted! I found a stainless steel barbed Y-fitting in 3/8" to replace the roadside repair and have just ordered a aluminium coolant bottle to replace the OEM cracky plastic version. Should be sorted now
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19?? D90, 300TDi, Dual tanks, OME, RTE links & bits, Bilstein 7100 reservoir's, ARB locker rear, Safari Gard tire carrier, Sliders, 12.5 Superwinch, 08 AT Horizon

#5
DHappel

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I got cheap and instead of ordering the $50 custom made part from the link I raided the plumbing bits and made my own for about 1/3 the cost. All brass. 1/4 FPT T, (2) 1/4 MPT-3/8 barbs, and a 1/4 MPT plug. Works fine. I'll toss the plastic one in the spares box. I suppose I really should have just ordered the custom one as I have two possible leak points that it wouldn't have and mine is slightly longer, but I couldn't help myself as I had the cover off the engine and wanted to do it NOW instead of waiting for shipment.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#6
DavidW

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Thanks for posting this Don!

I am just getting a chance to read through it, but it's definitely something that will go on my list of things to switch out. I am now at 9,500 miles, so I have a bit of time. I checked mine and it looks like new.
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#7
DHappel

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Well, I've got nearly 100K more than you David and mine still looked OK. Of course, I have no idea if it's original or not. Best not to take any chances though given the age of my truck. Thanks again to Ted for bringing this to my attention.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#8
GraemeWare

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Here's a photo of the offending part (I'm pointing at it with the extension). Notice the cap is brass, while the body is plastic - brilliant!
Posted Image


Is the cap just a cover on a threaded end or is there a real valve of some kind in there? I'm thinking of something like the Schrader valve on the fuel rail ... or is it just a capped "T"?

Regards,

Graeme

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#9
DHappel

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I want to say it's just a cap, but now I can't picture it.

I was surprised not to spill more than a few drops when I removed it. I then topped off the coolant which was actually slightly low (less than a quart) and let it heat up to open the thermostat and cracked the plug on my home-made partially open to purge it. I'm heading out this weekend so hopefully it will do the trick under load.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#10
GraemeWare

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I want to say it's just a cap, but now I can't picture it....


Don,

My guess is the cap has a rubber seal on the inside top of the cap and the thread has a groove down it. By unscrewing slightly you create a small passage for air to bleed out. Rather like the top hose bleeder on a D2. Just trying to educate myself ....

Graeme

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#11
DHappel

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I had to go home tonight to take care of some things so I snapped a pic of the stock T. It's pretty much just a cap; no groove down the threads, no O-ring, nothing special.

Posted Image

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock





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