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Red Rover Project #1: New Exhaust

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79 replies to this topic

#1
erinw.rrc

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So... Jared and I spent some time today sorting out the parts for the new exhaust system and then removing the old system. Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Imagehttp://tapatalk.imag...8acfa1d64a9.jpg



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Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
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#2
erinw.rrc

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The dog was no help either. Posted Image


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Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
IMG_1172.JPG


#3
Guest_Pedram_*

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Are you kidding me? I think white rock was your sign to replace this. From your pictures I'm surprised you haven't done this before.

#4
erinw.rrc

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Taking it off was fairly easy except for one of the stud screws which is still stuck in the catalytic converter. Putting in the new one is going to be more difficult. We are still waiting for some parts to arrive, so needless to say we haven't installed anything yet.


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Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
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#5
DHappel

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PB Blaster....it's your new best friend.

And if that fails, the trusty hot wrench (aka torch)

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#6
erinw.rrc

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Taking it off was fairly easy except for one of the stud screws which is still stuck in the catalytic converter. Putting in the new one is going to be more difficult. We are still waiting for some parts to arrive, so needless to say we haven't installed anything yet.


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Apparently the stud screw is stuck in manifold.... Sorry. Not the cat converter. I'm still learning.


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Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
IMG_1172.JPG


#7
DavidW

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Great job, Erin and Jared!

I am impressed you guys are tackling this on your own. :)
Posted Image
2013 LR4 (Discovery 4)
Full-sized Baja roof rack, ladder, front skid plate, tail lamp guards, 18" Compomotive PD1880 wheels with 265/65R18 BF Goodrich A/T KO2 tires, Tactical 4x4 rock sliders with steps, gas tank and transfer case skid plates, ARB front bumper with WARN XD9000 winch, RIGID Dually off-road lights, Kaymar rear bumper with custom tire swing-away, and a bunch of other stuff.

#8
SLOHybrid

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::classic::Nice to see someone documenting this pictorially

I trust you are replacing the O/2 sensors also?

What brand of exhaust and where did you buy it all?

oh! make sure you have a muffler heatshield... it attaches to those brackets on the muffler! most people leave it off and later on wonder why their carpet has a burn mark in it.

Edited by SLOHybrid, 18 August 2014 - 09:58 AM.

NCLR 093

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#9
erinw.rrc

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::classic::Nice to see someone documenting this pictorially

I trust you are replacing the O/2 sensors also?

What brand of exhaust and where did you buy it all?

oh! make sure you have a muffler heatshield... it attaches to those brackets on the muffler! most people leave it off and later on wonder why their carpet has a burn mark in it.


Nathan,

Yes, we are replacing the O2 sensors, and the heat shield is on it's way. We ordered the parts from Atlantic British and the heat shield is coming from their East Coast location whereas everything else came form their Sun Valley location.

I don't know the brand (Magnaflow?) but it's built to OEM specs since the Land Rover OEM is no longer available.

-Erin

Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
IMG_1172.JPG


#10
Guest_Pedram_*

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Oh yeah great advice Nathan. Erin you should cover the muffler and cats. One thing I wished I could do on mine before it went back in. Lining up the holes will be a challenge. Exhaust systems tend to heat up and shape the car. So every thing you add later will be slightly off. Use some heat rap around the cats. That should keep the heat out if the cabin. I recently made my own heat shield for my muffler and now the cats are still warming my floors.

#11
DHappel

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Hurry up and put it together and join us in the Sierras this weekend! I was forced to invite a Jeep along today -oh the humanity!

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#12
DHappel

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"heat rap"

Didn't MC Hammer do that one?





(I'm showing my age - I can't think of any current rappers)

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#13
JFuller

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That exAct same thing happened to my disco exhaust on the same side and in the same place. Were you having trouble passing smog? Or did you just want a new exhaust set up? You probably could have rewelded that setup from what I can see in the picture. A trick to get that stud out of your exhaust manifold. Remove the manifold from the motor and take it to a vice. Hit the manifold with a hammer in the area of the stuck stud a few times, not to hard. With a torch heat the area around the stuck stud until very hot. It doesn't have to be cherry red. In a well ventilated area apply some PB blaster to the stud and hole. It will smoke ALOT. But watch as the blaster is drawn into the space between the threads. Now flip it over and repeat on the other side. Then use some good vice grips and remove the old stud. Be careful to watch the stud as you are removing it that it's actually turning and not twisting/breaking off. If it doesn't move with some force heat and apply blaster again but you will probably only need one application. Good luck. If you break the stud off you're toast. You'll be off to the junk yard.

#14
Guest_Pedram_*

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If you remove the manifold your going to need new gaskets. Most likely your going to end up with another exhaust leak there if you don't. So if you decide to remove it then you have been warned. But if it's that stuck you have no choice. Or you can barrow my stud removal tool. They are worth their weight in cooper..... Not so much gold. If you need a hand call me.

#15
erinw.rrc

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Were you having trouble passing smog? Or did you just want a new exhaust set up?


Jason,

The truck was smogged when we bought it back in October, but at the White Rock trip we cracked the exhaust under the manifold. The entire way home was the loudest ever. The following Monday after we got home, Jared took it to a muffler shop and they discovered it was starting to crack on the other side, not to mention all of the holes through the entire set of pipes. We decided together that we would rather replaced the entire system than go through welding it... there are obvious signs of previous welding jobs over the years that it would only be a matter of time before it needed to be done again and it isn't worth the hassle. Rather replace it and be done with it for another 20 years.

Not to mention, there are about 3 or 4 additional projects that needs to be done (suspension, bushings, brakes, rotors, etc)... so the classic is out of commission for a while. :( I'm learning more about vehicles than I ever wanted too... especially as a woman.

-Erin

Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
IMG_1172.JPG


#16
erinw.rrc

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If you remove the manifold your going to need new gaskets. Most likely your going to end up with another exhaust leak there if you don't. So if you decide to remove it then you have been warned. But if it's that stuck you have no choice. Or you can barrow my stud removal tool. They are worth their weight in cooper..... Not so much gold. If you need a hand call me.


You can come over anytime and take my place. ::bigsmile::

Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
IMG_1172.JPG


#17
Guest_Pedram_*

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Word of advice, if you do the brakes then do the wheel bearings and seals at the same time. Bearings are found easily locally and cheap. Seals..... Not so much.

#18
GraemeWare

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Apparently the stud screw is stuck in manifold.... Sorry. Not the cat converter. I'm still learning.


Erin,

Actually, they were designed to unscrew at the nut and leave the stud in the manifold. Frequently the stud comes out on the nut, but that is due to corrosion rather than design. As long as it isn't snapped off, then you don't have a problem. In fact, the bigger issue is freeing up the nuts on the studs that came out, so that you ensure enough thread screwed into the manifold when you re-attach (with new gaskets the length normally needs to be longer and you don't want to bottom out the thread before it is tight either). Use copper slip on the threads on re-assembly and lock washers below the nuts.

Personally, I've taken to drilling out all the threads that go right through (manifold side) and use a nut and bolt (set-screw to be more correct) to secure the two back together. Tapping into cast was poor design and by using stainless fasteners you have no problem loosening them in future (in the snow, on the trail ....).

Regards,

Graeme

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#19
RedRover

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Personally, I've taken to drilling out all the threads that go right through (manifold side) and use a nut and bolt (set-screw to be more correct) to secure the two back together. Tapping into cast was poor design and by using stainless fasteners you have no problem loosening them in future (in the snow, on the trail ....)


This is something I would do if I were taking off the manifolds... it makes much more sense than studs.

-Jared

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#20
Dino

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i replaced my exhaust from the cats back recently. i deleted the back box because the truck wasn't any
louder w/o it.
94' RRC LWB




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