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LR3 wheels on an LR4

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153 replies to this topic

#1
erinw.rrc

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So, I decided to get LR3 wheels for my LR4 instead of the Compos. I found a killer deal on eBay for 6 wheels and couldn't pass it up. Now the question is, I know that I either have to use spacers or shave the caliper down. I've read online that 1.25" of spacers are needed and that most people prefer to shave the Caliper down. Anyone have any experience with either?

Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
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#2
JFuller

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Chuck has some recent experience with spacers

#3
JFuller

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How much do you need to alter the caliper. Your insurance might not be to happy if you end up in an at fault accident and have altered your brakes. With that said I ground down part of my calipers on a VW years ago to fit the wheels I wanted. Only needed 1/8". Do t forget to wear safety glasses if you do it. I was young and very stupid, got a piece of the caliper grinding in my eye. Had to get he rust scraped out of my eyeball the next day. No Bueno.

#4
erinw.rrc

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How much do you need to alter the caliper. Your insurance might not be to happy if you end up in an at fault accident and have altered your brakes. With that said I ground down part of my calipers on a VW years ago to fit the wheels I wanted. Only needed 1/8". Do t forget to wear safety glasses if you do it. I was young and very stupid, got a piece of the caliper grinding in my eye. Had to get he rust scraped out of my eyeball the next day. No Bueno.


gross

Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
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#5
erinw.rrc

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How much do you need to alter the caliper. Your insurance might not be to happy if you end up in an at fault accident and have altered your brakes. With that said I ground down part of my calipers on a VW years ago to fit the wheels I wanted. Only needed 1/8". Do t forget to wear safety glasses if you do it. I was young and very stupid, got a piece of the caliper grinding in my eye. Had to get he rust scraped out of my eyeball the next day. No Bueno.



Do you think insurance wise, it would be better to use spacers? This is still my daily driver.

Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
IMG_1172.JPG


#6
TomOwen

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Had to get he rust scraped out of my eyeball the next day. No Bueno.


Been there - no bueno indeed...

#7
TomOwen

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Do you think insurance wise, it would be better to use spacers? This is still my daily driver.



I'd be curious what's involved in clearancing the calipers first.. Likely pros and cons to both...

#8
TomOwen

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Do you think insurance wise, it would be better to use spacers? This is still my daily driver.



I'd be curious what's involved in clearancing the calipers first.. Likely pros and cons to both...

#9
erinw.rrc

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I'd be curious what's involved in clearancing the calipers first.. Likely pros and cons to both...


I think Michal has 33mm spacers which is quite a bit smaller than what I reading on line last night.

Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
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#10
DHappel

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I have no problems with either path, with caveats.

1- how much would you need to clearance the calipers to fit &
2- how much spacer is needed

Chuck would tell you to be sure and use some anti-seize if you go with spacers. :)

A bit in favor of spacers - it can be undone when it comes time to sell and when the truck is lifted (either via off road mode or Johnson Rods) it actually narrows the track slightly so spacers would bring you back closer to stock track width.

I've never heard of anybody having a caliper fail due to clearancing but I suppose it's possible. Since there's only so much you can remove on the calipers you'll have to do some research to see how much/where you need to grind. As for actually doing it, a die grinder with 2" pad and 60 grit would do it pretty quickly. Or a 4" electric grinder with a flap wheel. If you want to go that route and don't have the tools I'm sure plenty of people can lend them to you for an afternoon including myself.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#11
GraemeWare

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I think Michal has 33mm spacers which is quite a bit smaller than what I reading on line last night.

Erin

I think that is a nominal 1.25" actually, which is what your first post said ....

Are these wheels lug-centric or hub-centric? Makes a difference for using pacers safely.


Regards,

Graeme

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#12
GraemeWare

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I've never heard of anybody having a caliper fail due to clearancing but I suppose it's possible. Since there's only so much you can remove on the calipers you'll have to do some research to see how much/where you need to grind. As for actually doing it, a die grinder with 2" pad and 60 grit would do it pretty quickly. Or a 4" electric grinder with a flap wheel. If you want to go that route and don't have the tools I'm sure plenty of people can lend them to you for an afternoon including myself.


Or do the job properly and mill it off .... let me know and I'll do it for free .... owner takes the risk though.

Graeme

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#13
TomOwen

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Or do the job properly and mill it off .... let me know and I'll do it for free .... owner takes the risk though.

Graeme


Hey, I have a "Milling" project for us... ;-)

#14
Michal C

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Hi all - sorry didn't see this post before. I have 1.25mm spacers manufactured specifically for LR3/4 by MotorTech in Arizona. You want to get these and NOT the universal ones... Huuuge difference. I did need to slightly grind the calipers. Not an issue there as it is really slight (a millimeter or two to clear the inner wheel). The big issue where you may need a plasma cutter is the inner wheel horn. The large tire is going to rub against it seriously and you need to cut it. It is a bit difficult as there are tons of other lines in that area and thus a regular torch may burn them. Let me know if you need any help/advice


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HAM KK6VIL / 2011 LR4 HSE - BFGs 265/65R18, LR3 wheels with 30mm spacers, terrafirma hidden winch mount with superwinch 9.5 SR, IIDTool, baja roof rack with ladder, TR rock sliders, TR gas tank and transfer case skid plates, rigid industries D2 driving lamps, OEM front A bar, Kaymar rear bumper (double swing), Long Range Automotive aux fuel tank, Green Oval lift and air suspension override etc. etc. etc.....


#15
erinw.rrc

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Hi all - sorry didn't see this post before. I have 1.25mm spacers manufactured specifically for LR3/4 by MotorTech in Arizona. You want to get these and NOT the universal ones... Huuuge difference. I did need to slightly grind the calipers. Not an issue there as it is really slight (a millimeter or two to clear the inner wheel). The big issue where you may need a plasma cutter is the inner wheel horn. The large tire is going to rub against it seriously and you need to cut it. It is a bit difficult as there are tons of other lines in that area and thus a regular torch may burn them. Let me know if you need any help/advice


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Ok, I will need help! Can you please send me the link for the spacers? How many do I need to get?

Do I need anything else?

Next question, did you do it yourself, or did you take it somewhere?

This will be my first project and want to be ready when everything arrives. Perhaps a wrenching day at Justin's will be in order. :) Not to mention, I'm a girl, so modding a vehicle is new to me. I'm used to just taking my car somewhere and having someone work on it.

What are your thoughts on shaving the caliper and how it might affect my insurance if I were to get in an accident? Jason mentioned it, and sounds like something I should consider.

Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
IMG_1172.JPG


#16
JFuller

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I don't know what part of the caliper you would need to work on but if you do a nice job and then paint them black or something I doubt anyone would ever notice. Might be worth a call to an agent of your insurance company though. Maybe they wouldn't care. It just kinda freaked me out that the option would be grind or use a 1.25" spacer. Does that mean you need to grind 1.25"? That's a lot of caliper.

Edited by JFuller, 03 February 2015 - 08:51 PM.


#17
DHappel

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No, you don't need to remove 1.25" off the caliper. I don't think that would be possible!

I'm betting on Dweb or LRR forums you can find somebody with some pics of the modified calipers.

You would need 4 spacers - one per wheel. Even if the rear wheels would clear (smaller caliper) you'd want to keep the track the same front/back.

As for trimming the frame horns, you can do it with a grinder and cut-off wheel. That's how I did mine. A plasma would be nice, but that's a luxury I don't have.

I've never heard of anybody having an insurance issue with calipers. Of course if you call your insurance company and ask them 'can I modify my brakes?' they'll say NO - it's what they do. However as I said before I've never heard of a caliper failing due to a little grinding. It could, but obviously you're just looking to remove a little bit of material, not half the caliper.

Don't worry, we can get you through it. Wrenching day!

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#18
Michal C

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Hi all - you need to just very very slightly grind the caliper. I would say a millimeter or two in just on space. It doesn't impact the caliper and with all the dirt from the brakes you will not even be able to see it :) I wouldn't worry about the insurance.

I have two left hands, no tools and young kids (equals no time) and thus I had a local shop do it for me. Didn't take them long.

Here is the link to spacers: http://www.motorsport-tech.com

I agree with Don - if you know what you are doing (I don't...) you can cut the horns yourself. The cutting is not that of a big of a problem... I found that closing the hole with a new plate is as it is a bit of a pain to have it perfectly match the opening.


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HAM KK6VIL / 2011 LR4 HSE - BFGs 265/65R18, LR3 wheels with 30mm spacers, terrafirma hidden winch mount with superwinch 9.5 SR, IIDTool, baja roof rack with ladder, TR rock sliders, TR gas tank and transfer case skid plates, rigid industries D2 driving lamps, OEM front A bar, Kaymar rear bumper (double swing), Long Range Automotive aux fuel tank, Green Oval lift and air suspension override etc. etc. etc.....


#19
DHappel

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Erin, here you go:
http://www.expeditio...-4-(LR4)/page30

Note that they did NOT clearance the calipers for their installation. If you did, I would think it would be like Michal said and only just a tiny bit - a few seconds with a grinder to relieve a high spot. To summarize:

MOST IMPORTART!
Anyone that owns an LR4 can install 1.25" hubcentric spacers and use factory LR3 18" wheels with no further modification. Using a 1" spacer would require some grinding of the caliper. Use no spacer requires significant grinding of the caliper.



FWIW, you can dig through tons of stuff they did on this rig to find ideas for spending money.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#20
erinw.rrc

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Hi all - you need to just very very slightly grind the caliper. I would say a millimeter or two in just on space. It doesn't impact the caliper and with all the dirt from the brakes you will not even be able to see it :) I wouldn't worry about the insurance.

I have two left hands, no tools and young kids (equals no time) and thus I had a local shop do it for me. Didn't take them long.

Here is the link to spacers: http://www.motorsport-tech.com

I agree with Don - if you know what you are doing (I don't...) you can cut the horns yourself. The cutting is not that of a big of a problem... I found that closing the hole with a new plate is as it is a bit of a pain to have it perfectly match the opening.


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Did you use the 1" or the 1.25" spacers? And did you use the hubcentrict to vehicle or hubcentrict to vehicle and wheel centrict to wheel?

Also, did you have a shop do everything? Or just the calipers?


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Erin W.
"Jack Sparrow" 2012 Ipanema Sand LR4 HSE LUX; 18" LR3 Wheels, Johnson Rods, 30mm spacers, LT275/65R18 Cooper Discoverer A/T3, Baja Rack, Custom rear Kaymar bumper, factory Warn Winch kit for LR4, factory brush guard, Iron Man rear light, Hi-lift jack (recently mounted :D)
IMG_1172.JPG





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