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LR3 Brakes and Rotors Suggestions

- - - - - LR3 Brakes

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19 replies to this topic

#1
yarrover

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Hello Everyone,

 

Hope everyone is having fun, its been long, i am little active with you all. Busy days at work and not able to see any off roads or Norcal friends.

 

Time for new brakes on my LR3. Hearing good squeaks now a days. So planning to on DIY.

Not sure if I need rotors too.

 

Help and suggestions i need from the pandits(gurus), below are few things on my mind to ask, if i am missing anything please fill me in. Any videos or procedure if anyone here have done it before will be helpful. I have watched and went thru some videos and suggestions online.

 

1. Do we need to change both rotors and pads every time? Not sure when they were last done. 

2. Are there any complications in Doing it Myself?

3. Best Rotors and Brake pads suggestions? As LR3's are heavy and brakes are major part in stopping these, i am looking for a good set and holds for a long time so that i do not have to do it anytime soon.

4. Regular vs Ceramic pads? Any pros going ceramic?

5. Slotted vs regular Rotors? Any difference?

6. Things i need to take care of while doing it.

 

Waiting for the valuable responses. 

Hopefully see you all soon. Have fun and be safe out there on trails.

 

Thanks in advance.

 


Anudeep (YARRover)
2006 LR3 HSE (Buckingham Blue)
with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#2
DHappel

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Normally you don't have to do rotor automatically with pads unless you show a lot of wear or have a warped rotor or other damage.  Usually you can just sand them a little to break up any glaze and put in the new pads. 

 

I would not recommend slotted, drilled, or dimpled rotors.  They can help in a high-heat application, but they also tend to warp and crack easier than the OEM stuff and I've seen too many aftermarket wonder-rotors that really didn't do anything but look fancy.  I'd stay stock with the rotors if you do have to replace them.

 

In the past you could turn a rotor; some people used to do it almost as a matter of course when doing pads.  These days it seems like brake shops are all scared of turning rotors.  Liability maybe.  It is better not to turn if you don't have to - no sense removing material as it only makes future issues more likely.

 

I don't have a specific pad recommendation I'm afraid.  I haven't researched it enough.  As for ceramic vs organic pads or semi-metalic, usually ceramics have less dust and can handle high heat but at a higher cost.  I have found my stock pads can be taxed in the mountains given how heavy my rig is, so I may look for an upgrade when the time comes but for normal driving I haven't had any real complaints with the OEM pads.


Edited by DHappel, 10 April 2015 - 09:25 PM.

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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#3
yarrover

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Thanks Don. I am thinking of Acebono cerramic pads, heard some good about them in other forums. Have to check the thickness of rotors and see if they are needed to.

Found info not to rotate rotors, its not suggested for LR3's in other forums. Some people had bad experiences.


Anudeep (YARRover)
2006 LR3 HSE (Buckingham Blue)
with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#4
DHappel

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I think you've got a good plan.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#5
Michal C

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I run EBC pads and rotors (green). Significantly better durability than OEM.


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#6
DHappel

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I've run EBC stuff on other vehicles with decent results.  I've also used Hawk for track days with BMWs and Alfas as well as Performance Friction, but you get into more temp-specific pad compounds there.  I don't think there's much need for something like that with a street vehicle.


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#7
psykokid

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I ran mintex pads on my VW's for years. Never had any complaints. Figured I'd try them on the rover and even with the no squeak red goop on the back of the pads they suqeaked like nobodys business until they got about 3/4 of the way through the usable friction material. I recently needed to do my rear pads and went with some Ferodo pads. Working great with no squeaks or other funky noises plus they came with the mounting hardware which the Mintex pads did not. I had run Ferodo pads on a couple of track cars with good results, they were just really dusty which was the reason I went with Mintex on my street cars (cleaning brake dust from BBS RS's is a huge PITA)


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#8
yarrover

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Quick question?

 

As front brakes are main can i use EBC greenstuff/Trax/Ceramics or something very good in the front and Wagner in the back? Does that make any difference or issues?


Anudeep (YARRover)
2006 LR3 HSE (Buckingham Blue)
with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#9
DHappel

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I don't think you'd have any problems mixing front/rear.  I'd bet half the cars on the road today are mixed since people often only do one axle at a time based on when one happens to wear out.

 

I don't know much about Wagners in particular, but I see they are very inexpensive.  They're also a big big name in brakes so I'm sure they make a wide range of stuff from el-cheapo to good.


Edited by DHappel, 13 April 2015 - 01:31 PM.

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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#10
DHappel

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A quick note regarding brakes if you haven't already bought your Anudeep,

 

I started getting an intermittent brake pad wear light just before leaving on the slickrock trip so I tossed a pair of Wagner Ceramic 'thermo-quiet' pads in the rear.

 

On the road they seemed OK.  But on the trail, once they got hot on a long hill decent, they squeal non-stop.  Very irritating.  They also seemed to offer less stopping power and I needed more pedal pressure once they got hot.

 

They'll be going away, likely for EBC.  At least they were only $30.  FWIW, the old pads were Ferodo.


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#11
Disco2Guy

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I've had the best performance from the genuine LR pads. They seem to have it all; great stopping power, no dust and quiet operation.


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Brenton Corns
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#12
RedRover

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The RedRover had some aftermarket pads on when we bought it -- made a ruckus off road with squealing at multiple levels of pressure.

 

Switched out to the LR Genuine pads and while I can't say the squeal goes completely away, they don't squeal with on-road driving and very little after a day of off-roading.  I'm generally pleased and will probably stick w/ the LR Genuine pads going forward.


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#13
psykokid

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FWIW I *think* that Ferodo is the OEM for Land Rover..  That being said, I have a great parts place down the street from me here in Socal. I walk in with a LR part number and they will give me a laundry list of options as far as price and mfg from Genuine all the way down to Allmakes/Eurospares on the budget end. They can normally get things same day if I order early in the day, if not its there the next day. 



#14
AlysonH

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I've had the best performance from the genuine LR pads. They seem to have it all; great stopping power, no dust and quiet operation.


What about rotors? Specifically for the Discos.

#15
DHappel

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FWIW I *think* that Ferodo is the OEM for Land Rover..  That being said, I have a great parts place down the street from me here in Socal. I walk in with a LR part number and they will give me a laundry list of options as far as price and mfg from Genuine all the way down to Allmakes/Eurospares on the budget end. They can normally get things same day if I order early in the day, if not its there the next day. 

I suspect Ferodo is OEM as well; my rig was all dealer serviced by the prior owner as far as I know.

 

I'm just stunned that you have an actual parts house with a real counterman who can track down a part number.  As opposed to the usual AutoZone/Oreily level of service where they will ask if you have air con or not to determine which pads you need. 


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#16
Disco2Guy

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What about rotors? Specifically for the Discos.

 

I've purchased my rotors from Will Tillery. He has great prices and you can pick from a few types of pads. Off hand I forget the manufacturer of the rotors, but they are of Italian origin.


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#17
psykokid

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I've purchased my rotors from Will Tillery. He has great prices and you can pick from a few types of pads. Off hand I forget the manufacturer of the rotors, but they are of Italian origin.

 Brembo more than likely. They are an OEM for a whole lot of mfgs..  ATE is another OEM mfg of brake rotors for a ton of marques, especially european.



#18
Disco2Guy

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No, I would definitely remember if I had Brembo anything on my truck:)


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Brenton Corns
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#19
Disco2Guy

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I think they are Pilenga rotors.


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#20
alpaca

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If you are going to keep your old rotors - check thickness with caliper at 3 points and make sure it is still in spec (you'll have to look that up somewhere or sometimesit is stamped on the rotor). Light glaze can be sanded off - but make sure there is no big lip at the top of the rotor, else that could cause you problems with teh new pads. No need to go with slotted/drilled if OEM was not that. Avoid cheap chinese parts. Delphi, ATE or Ferrodo (all at rockauto) should be good for rotors if you want to save on OEM.

 

For Pads, Ferodo seems to be OE, I got PowerStop but I didn't put them on yet- so I can't comment on those. Akebono ceramics were great on my BMW - less dust, wear MUCH longer - but have a little less bite at cold - good when up to temp. Can't comment how well those work on LR3 though. Probably a good idea to replace spings/clips and even new caliper bolts (after many heat cycles they will fatigue) if they are old / corroded. Not sure if locktite is recommneded on our bolts - but make sure you torque them up to correct spec.  Clean everthing off with brake cleaner from autoparts store.

 

Make sure you use a good anti-squeel paste on the back of the pad and lube the sliding pins with appropriate grease (I got Sil-glide from Napa Auto).

 

Inspect condition of rubber brake lines - if craked you should probably replace (these are cheap - but the job takes a while on each side). (Atlantic british has video that shows you some of that job). What about brake fluid - when was that last changed ? If it was more than a couple of years and/or the fluid looks dark you might want to also flush that out with Castrol DOT4 (or good quality  equivlanet like Pentosin).

 

On one of the UK forums someone has written a pretty comprehensive brake bible ..

 

http://www.disco3.co....php?album=4184

 

Good luck with the job ....


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