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LR3 Front Lower Controls arms change

- - - - - Lower control arms LR3

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37 replies to this topic

#21
yarrover

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That sounds perfect for me Don, 30t it is. But it all depends on Justin's availability. So will be waiting for his approvals. Fingers crossed :).

 

 

Club should rent a place or members interested should group up and rent one with a lift and basic tools in Bay area if that is affordable. That would be awesome.

I am in.


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with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#22
DHappel

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Except I don't live in the bay area... :)

 

 

Actually Michele and I have been talking about trying to find a piece of property with a large outbuilding perhaps along 80 somewhere between Sac and SF.  Not sure it's really feasible but it may make more sense than building a maximum-sized garage behind our current home.  Either way, I will eventually have a new shop and my own lift.  Just not soon.  :( 


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'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

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#23
GraemeWare

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Club should rent a place or members interested should group up and rent one with a lift and basic tools in Bay area if that is affordable. That would be awesome.

I am in.

 

I have been after workshop space here in the Bay Area for over a year.  Best I found was $1.49 per sq. foot.  For something double garage size (small for us) that would be $600+ per month, if you can find it.  For something usable to work on one vehicle (long term), store another, part another, and work on other things every once in a while you need 1000 sq. ft. so are looking at $1500-$2000 a month ....

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


  • DHappel likes this

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#24
DHappel

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I have been after workshop space here in the Bay Area for over a year.  Best I found was $1.49 per sq. foot.  For something double garage size (small for us) that would be $600+ per month, if you can find it.  For something usable to work on one vehicle (long term), store another, part another, and work on other things every once in a while you need 1000 sq. ft. so are looking at $1500-$2000 a month ....

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

I've briefly looked for warehouse/shop space in the east bay myself thinking it could double as business/personal but just like you I couldn't see the $2K+ fitting into the budget.  Plus the more 'affordable' stuff looked pretty sketchy.  My best bet is trying to find a piece of rural property zoned AG so I can have a 'barn', but it certainly won't be centrally located.


Don
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'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#25
yarrover

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Get it soon Don. We all can have wrenching days and have lots of fun  :)  ;) . May be we can host the Peninsula and Sac gatherings on Thursdays over there together.


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#26
GraemeWare

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Getting back on track ... has anyone detailed the steps you need to do, or would you like me to when I get time?

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#27
yarrover

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Hi Graeme,

 

I found few DIY videos in youtube and some other details in various forums but it would be greatly appreciated if you would detail me when you have time.

Also it can be used for future references for others like me. And when i do it i will take some pictures and add to this post.

 

Thanks


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2006 LR3 HSE (Buckingham Blue)
with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#28
GraemeWare

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Anudeep,

 

Here goes then, Graeme's DIY guide to changing lower suspension arms (aka lower wishbone, lower control arm).

 

1.  Thoroughly power-wash the entire suspension and wheel-arch area two days before and drive the vehicle to ensure you haven't drowned anything (electrical) before you start.  Allow to dry.  You'll be glad you did when working underneath as getting mud and dust in your eyes isn't fun.

 

2.  Caution: when doing any of this ensure you wear eye protection and have the vehicle securely blocked, and use stands not just jacks (that can and do fail).

 

3.  If possible, get underneath the day before and precisely squirt a good penetrating oil ("Liquid Wrench", "WD 40", "Plus Gas", whatever you use, personally I use 50/50 mix of kerosine and ATF) on all the bolts and nuts.  Avoid getting it on the brakes!

 

4.  Check to make sure the replacements you have look like the original before starting .... sounds obvious but it is not unusual to get incorrect parts.

 

5.  With the road wheel still on the ground, slacken the hub nut (with most wheels this is possible, some you may need to take the wheel off first).  You'll need a 32mm thin-walled socket (RoverWare has them if you need one).  This might be the hardest part of the job as it is it is torqued to 258lbft so will take at least that to remove.  You'll need a big bar .... or at least a big fridge for the beverages.

 

6.  Now, here's the bit that nobody tells you.  Mark the inner bolts and washers (they are an eccentric cam) with a Sharpie or paint marker to ensure you put them back int he same place.  This will mean that you are almost dialed back in and can drive safely for a while without an alignment (which you will need anyway, but you'll be close doing it this way).

 

7.  Clean all the threads of the bolts.  Harbor Freight (no affiliation) do a really cheap kit of small wire brushes that is great for this.

 

7.5  Place vehicle in "access mode" or whatever they call it, and measure from hub center to wheel arch.  Write down this number.

 

8.  Slacken the lower ball joint nut and remove the lower damper using a 24mm socket (and big breaker bar).  Make sure you have a big hammer ... don't use it, but "threatening" to use it usually works!

 

9.  Undo the suspension arm nuts, and start praying that the bolts aren't rusted solid into the bushes.  Normally they are good here in California, but where they spray salt on the roads they can be corroded to the point where you need a Sawsall.  Might be worth planning to replace them anyway unless you have a spare vehicle so that you can wait while replacements arrive.

 

10.  Remove the caliper and disk.  You'll need a puller for this.

 

11.  Split the lower ball joint from the hub carrier (aka upright).  Crow bar and hammer is the usual way.  Put tension on with the crowbar and sharp blow with a 2lb hammer.  The correct way is to use a cantilever ball joint splitter, but a "pickle fork" will also work (but that is a butcher's tool!).

 

12.  Go for beer break; see 5 above.

 

13.  Get that crowbar out again to gently lever out the wishbone from the chassis.

 

14.  Pull the hub off the driveshaft enough to get the ball joint out.  It helps if you have two people and six hands for this.  If you don't, go to 12.

 

15.  You're free!  You should now have the old wishbone free.  If you're not swapping it, just changing the bushes, then you'll need a press, lots of penetrating oil, various sockets or drivers, and a lot of patience.  I'd just change out the wishbone, as they are only about $150 I think, and the bushes are half that.

 

16.  So lift your new wishbone (or re-bushed wishbone) into place.  Fit the ball joint, and add the nut finger tight.  Using the pre-marked bolts (or transfer the markings on to the new bolts), attach to the chassis, greasing the bolts first (lithium is best IMNSHO).

 

17.  Remember, don't tighten anything up fully; leave the ball joint and the mounting bolts loose.

 

18.  Put the hub nut back on and pinch, but don't fully tighten.

 

19.  Tighten ball joint (you might need to jack under the wishbone to do this) to spec.

 

20  Fit wheel and tighten hub nut to spec. (258lbft)

 

21.  Tighten the main mounting bolts to spec., ensuring the marks you previously made line up.

 

22.  Measure the hub to wheel arch distance and note that it should be the same as it was.  If it isn't you may need to recalibrate the suspension height, and I know nothing about that ....

 

23  Go to item 12.

 

24.  Have someone test drive the vehicle, or do it yourself the next day (due to item 12).

 

Okay, so what did I miss?

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


Edited by GraemeWare, 13 May 2015 - 07:49 AM.

  • TomOwen, RedRover and yarrover like this

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#29
DHappel

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I've not heard of having to reset the height doing this - the sensor is attache to the upper arm.  If you're doing the upper I would guess you could tweak the calibration a bit but wouldn't expect to do so on the lowers.

 

2nd the 'drive the truck after you hose it down' part.  Just today I took a hose to my engine bay to get some of the Pismo sand out.  Not a power washer, just the hose in a focused jet.  Sure enough, I had some random faults pop up when I restarted it.  I cleared them with my GAP tool but one popped back again.  Drove it about 5 miles, shut it off, cleared the code and it's happy again.  Can't say I'm surprised by this given how 'sensitive' the various sensors and their connections are.

 

I'll ping Justin to see about setting this up at his place.


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#30
Disco2Guy

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285 ft. lbs. or 258 ft. lbs. for the hub nut? I assume 285, but both are listed (steps 5 & 20).


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#31
DHappel

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I don't actually have a torque wrench that goes that high anyway.  The best I can do is a 4x torque multiplier with my 150 lb torque wrench, but that's not really accurate.

 

I think most people use the even less scientific but generally adequate 'make it as *%$# tight as you can'.  I don't even know anybody who rents torque wrenches that go that high.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#32
DHappel

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I started a new wrenching day thread in the events section.  We're on for the 30th.

 

Let's carry on over there if we can.


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#33
GraemeWare

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285 ft. lbs. or 258 ft. lbs. for the hub nut? I assume 285, but both are listed (steps 5 & 20).

 

Einstein,

 

I'll pick 258, and have updated the post.  Is that the only comment you have?!

 

Popeye


  • RedRover likes this

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#34
GraemeWare

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I don't actually have a torque wrench that goes that high anyway.  The best I can do is a 4x torque multiplier with my 150 lb torque wrench, but that's not really accurate.

 

I think most people use the even less scientific but generally adequate 'make it as *%$# tight as you can'.  I don't even know anybody who rents torque wrenches that go that high.

 

Don,

 

I can hear the Kenny Roger's song playing in the background ..... "it's a fine time to leave me loose wheel ..." ... "with four angry people and a dent in the steel  ..."

 

Graeme


Edited by GraemeWare, 09 May 2015 - 08:24 PM.

  • TomOwen likes this

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#35
yarrover

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Thanks Grame for the details. Appreciate your time. Don lets go for it at the wrenching day. I am now kind of thinking shall i get Poly too  :)  :) . Lets see what my mind goes to. What do you think shall i get the poly ones and do as yours ? 


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with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#36
DHappel

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Honestly for a daily driver I'd probably stay with OEM.  The Poly will be a bit more robust and should give a minor improvement in steering feel but at the trade off of a bit harsher ride and more abrupt failure mode.  The rubber bushings may fail more quickly, but they fail more gradually.  So if they start going bad you get more warning and don't have to do them RIGHT NOW.  The poly bushings are harder and will (should) last longer over-all particularly in rigs that are used hard off road but when they fail it's much more quickly so you have to get on them right away.

 

I guess I'd say if the truck will spend more time on the road go OEM.  If it's mod'ed and lives off road then look at the poly.


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#37
RedRover

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Surprisingly the RedRover had a slightly firmer ride since putting in the Orange Polybush but hard to tell. I'm happy with them.
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#38
yarrover

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So i am confused now, recently i drove round trip to Boise, Idaho totaling around 1300 miles. I found no steering vibrations or knocking in the steering. All i hear is the creaking or squeaking sound in the front when going slow over bumps or uneven surface. This makes me think is it the lower control arms and tie rods or any other dry or worn out bushings like ARB or sway bar bushings or is there anything else i am missing that might cause this sound. Any ideas please? 

 

I need to order the things to receive before wrenching day, not sure if Atlantic British will take returns if i do not use the lower control arms if i do not need them.


Edited by yarrover, 19 May 2015 - 09:48 AM.

Anudeep (YARRover)
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with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!






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