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1995 LWB Build & Suggestions Thread

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#41
Disco2Guy

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A former member, Steve (Esteban) had 16x7 wheels on his D2 and the 255/85R16 looked like balloons. D2 wheels are typically 16x8. The extra 2 inches or so of extra width on a 35" probably wouldn't work. However, the Wolf wheels are very good and pretty well sought after. You could probably sell those wheels pretty quickly if you wanted to upgrade the tires.


Edited by Disco2Guy, 07 May 2015 - 08:21 PM.

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#42
ndamico

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Most of the 255x85r16 tires say min width 7. In consideration of being able to air down well and not blow the bead easily wont a 8" rim be a better choice? The wolf rims seem strong but me thinks to narrow.

Nick

2010 LR4 HSE-Lux/HD. Compos w/ Toyo Open County AT2 265/65R18, IIDTool, Baja Rack.

1995 RRC LWB.  3" RTE Lift/Bumpers, 7100SB Shocks, 255x85R16 Toyo MT's, Mantec Snorkel, Ashcroft Lockers/Axles/CV's/4.12 Gears, GBR Driveshafts & Thrust Bolts, LT230, QT Diff Guards, Voyager Rack, Winch, Sliders, Dual Batteries, ARB Twin Compressor, Kenwood D710G HAM Radio, Xantrex Inverter, Swing Away & Sliders.

 

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#43
psykokid

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Chris Baldewin down here in SCLR is running LT255/85R16 KM2's on wolf wheels on his exmod 90 and  doesnt have any problems. A lot of the defender guys that prefer the tall and skinny look run this size on 7" wheels be it on wolfs or on disco 1 spare steel wheels. I used to run the disco steelies but they are pretty heavy when compared to the wolf wheels or regular alloys. I dont need the extra weight on my piggie so I went back to alloys. 

 

My next set of tires will be 255/85R16's when I finally wear down these 235/85R16's that are on there now.



#44
ndamico

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i talked to my good buddy who runs a tire store.  he said the 6.5 wolfe wheel would be best for running low pressure and not blowing the 255x85 off the bead.  so sounds like the wolfe's is what i'll be getting.


Nick

2010 LR4 HSE-Lux/HD. Compos w/ Toyo Open County AT2 265/65R18, IIDTool, Baja Rack.

1995 RRC LWB.  3" RTE Lift/Bumpers, 7100SB Shocks, 255x85R16 Toyo MT's, Mantec Snorkel, Ashcroft Lockers/Axles/CV's/4.12 Gears, GBR Driveshafts & Thrust Bolts, LT230, QT Diff Guards, Voyager Rack, Winch, Sliders, Dual Batteries, ARB Twin Compressor, Kenwood D710G HAM Radio, Xantrex Inverter, Swing Away & Sliders.

 

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#45
Disco2Guy

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Nice choice. That's true about most of the LR wheels. They can hold a bead pretty darn well.


Brenton Corns
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#46
ndamico

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Wolfe NATO wheels ordered.  so now that BFG MT's are off the table, suggestions for a 255x85 16? tire?  i want something more aggressive than the Toyo AT2's i run on the LR4.    not looking to run boggers :)


Nick

2010 LR4 HSE-Lux/HD. Compos w/ Toyo Open County AT2 265/65R18, IIDTool, Baja Rack.

1995 RRC LWB.  3" RTE Lift/Bumpers, 7100SB Shocks, 255x85R16 Toyo MT's, Mantec Snorkel, Ashcroft Lockers/Axles/CV's/4.12 Gears, GBR Driveshafts & Thrust Bolts, LT230, QT Diff Guards, Voyager Rack, Winch, Sliders, Dual Batteries, ARB Twin Compressor, Kenwood D710G HAM Radio, Xantrex Inverter, Swing Away & Sliders.

 

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#47
Disco2Guy

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http://norcalrovers....-16-tire-sizes/

 

or

 

TL;DR

 

The Cooper S/T MAXX look good, but if you can wait about a month (so "they" say), BFG will reintroduce the 255/85R16 in June with a new part number (04222).


Brenton Corns
TREAD Lightly! Tread Trainer
 

4xFarAdventures.com
 

2001 D2

205,000 miles

 

post-472-0-05786100-1439104512.jpg


#48
AdvRovr

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I've always loved Coopers although I don't have much experience with them offroad, so that's somewhat useless. On road, they're great. 

 

And about the bead....on the P38 I installed 255/55/18 Cooper Discoverer HT Plus (street performance, not much offroad) on the stock wheels and it took two guys with heat guns and all kinds of effort to get the thing ON the bead, so I was pretty certain it was never coming back off the bead. :D The bead design of the wheel was pretty impressive. 


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#49
Nick

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I like the ST MAXXs I have on my Classic now. I ran the LTZs on my 2010 RR, which were fine for most things (just not as strong as I'd like). I used to have the STTs on my 2005, and those were great tires in all conditions I threw them at. Saw that there's a new STT Pro coming out that might be worth looking into... http://expeditionpor...stt-pro-review/



#50
Disco2Guy

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About 3-4 years ago Bill Burke was at the Annual. At one point he was going to show how you can use a Hi-Lift Jack to break the bead on a wheel. Using a spare, he placed the base of the jack on the tire. Then he started lifting, and lifting, and lifting until the D90 was well off the ground and the tire was like, nope, I'm just gonna hold on to the bead and make you look silly in front of all these people.

 

At the Overland Expo last year, Tom Collins demonstrated using a 4" long piece of 90° steel and a long handled sledgehammer to break the bead. We were using an old Toyota wheel for the demo and it worked very well.


  • RedRover likes this

Brenton Corns
TREAD Lightly! Tread Trainer
 

4xFarAdventures.com
 

2001 D2

205,000 miles

 

post-472-0-05786100-1439104512.jpg


#51
ndamico

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Has anyone used a Maxxis MT762?


Nick

2010 LR4 HSE-Lux/HD. Compos w/ Toyo Open County AT2 265/65R18, IIDTool, Baja Rack.

1995 RRC LWB.  3" RTE Lift/Bumpers, 7100SB Shocks, 255x85R16 Toyo MT's, Mantec Snorkel, Ashcroft Lockers/Axles/CV's/4.12 Gears, GBR Driveshafts & Thrust Bolts, LT230, QT Diff Guards, Voyager Rack, Winch, Sliders, Dual Batteries, ARB Twin Compressor, Kenwood D710G HAM Radio, Xantrex Inverter, Swing Away & Sliders.

 

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#52
psykokid

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Has anyone used a Maxxis MT762?

 

Lutzi runs those on his D2 and likes them quite a bit IIRC.



#53
DHappel

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I've only heard good things about the ST/Maxx.  The tread pattern is quite similar to the Duratracs I run, but the Cooper likely has better sidewall strength. Though I haven't cut a tire yet I've got some pretty good gouges in the sidewalls.  On the other hand, the Duratracs are really good in snow which can't be said for many/most mud terrain tires.  


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#54
ndamico

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yeah i really am wondering if i need a mud tire...  you know part of me wants to do it because..well why not? i have AT2's on my LR4 which i love but the mud tire just looks so much meaner and i'm building a meaner rig right???  i wonder if driving around on trails like rubicon and slickrock of a mud tire is better, assuming i'm not bogging in mud.  i don' really envision taking it to play specifically in the mud.  snow, perhaps (shaver, etc) but notsomuch mud.    hmm.

 

right no no BFG km2's and no cooper stt pro.

 

other than the "because its a mud tire and it looks so much cooler".... will it really get my rrc down harder trails (like rubicon, slickrock, etc) any better?  after all the lr4 will be my fair weather rig :) is testosterone getting in my way of thinking clearly??


Nick

2010 LR4 HSE-Lux/HD. Compos w/ Toyo Open County AT2 265/65R18, IIDTool, Baja Rack.

1995 RRC LWB.  3" RTE Lift/Bumpers, 7100SB Shocks, 255x85R16 Toyo MT's, Mantec Snorkel, Ashcroft Lockers/Axles/CV's/4.12 Gears, GBR Driveshafts & Thrust Bolts, LT230, QT Diff Guards, Voyager Rack, Winch, Sliders, Dual Batteries, ARB Twin Compressor, Kenwood D710G HAM Radio, Xantrex Inverter, Swing Away & Sliders.

 

My Rover Pics


#55
Nick

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I've had no issues with ATs on the trails I've been on or in mud, and they're better in the snow/rain than MTs. I don't really miss any of my old MTs, but I also don't really like mud so tend to avoid that.


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#56
psykokid

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On harder rockier trails the larger tread blocks of most MT's tend to smear and grip a bit better than the smaller voided or siped tread blocks of most AT tires..



#57
GraemeWare

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yeah i really am wondering if i need a mud tire...  you know part of me wants to do it because..well why not? i have AT2's on my LR4 which i love but the mud tire just looks so much meaner and i'm building a meaner rig right???  i wonder if driving around on trails like rubicon and slickrock of a mud tire is better, assuming i'm not bogging in mud.  i don' really envision taking it to play specifically in the mud.  snow, perhaps (shaver, etc) but notsomuch mud.    hmm.

 

right no no BFG km2's and no cooper stt pro.

 

other than the "because its a mud tire and it looks so much cooler".... will it really get my rrc down harder trails (like rubicon, slickrock, etc) any better?  after all the lr4 will be my fair weather rig :) is testosterone getting in my way of thinking clearly??

 

Nick,

 

I put 33 ATs on Katrina, but when I complete the Blue submarine she'll be wearing something meaner .... but as you say, will it actually get you further?  No, traction is rarely the issue; articulation and hang-ups are.

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
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#58
DHappel

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I've had no issues with ATs on the trails I've been on or in mud, and they're better in the snow/rain than MTs. I don't really miss any of my old MTs, but I also don't really like mud so tend to avoid that.

 

 

 

On harder rockier trails the larger tread blocks of most MT's tend to smear and grip a bit better than the smaller voided or siped tread blocks of most AT tires..

 

 

Nick,

 

I put 33 ATs on Katrina, but when I complete the Blue submarine she'll be wearing something meaner .... but as you say, will it actually get you further?  No, traction is rarely the issue; articulation and hang-ups are.

 

Graeme

 

The guys above pretty much covered it I think.

 

Today's extra aggressive ATs like the ST/Maxx and Duratrac perform nearly as well as a true MT off road and better to much better in rain/snow either on or off road.   They are also generally quieter and have better road manners as well as having longer tread life.  I'd also expect a bit better gas mileage with an AT vs MT.

 

In true mud they won't keep up simply due to the lack of clearing voids.  And in really rocky situations a MT's softer compound can provide more grip in addition to having larger biting edges to claw with.  They also tend to have more aggressive shoulder blocks which can help in some situations.  

 

And a MT should have a little heavier construction, particularly in the sidewalls, which is always good in gnarly terrain. 

 

In short, an AT is probably better for 90% of the average truck's use but if you want the best in the toughest conditions an MT is still the way to go.  Were I building something like you, I'd be looking at an MT.  But on my LR3 I'll most likely stick to on of the more aggressive ATs.


Don
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