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Chad's Rover Rehab (and turtle-speed offroad Classic build)

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#61
AdvRovr

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Chapter 3: My Balls Are Bruised

See? I told you this would be slow going.

First order of business was the differential. I quickly discovered that my C-clamps were not up to the task of dealing with the sway bar as I watched the clamping bolt bend under the pressure. I always love a good excuse to go buy more tools. With a new 5" C-clamp in hand, I taught the sway bar a valuable lesson in obedience and popped the differential out. I took some time to clean the mating surface, but I'm going to wait to reinstall the diff until the swivels are buttoned up and I can see the axles have seated properly in their seals.

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Next up was cleaning off my swivel housings and other parts. I had been thinking the only thing damaged in the CV carnage was the seal and retainer, but oh..... was I wrong....

The grease and gunk had done a great job of hiding the damage, and the visible swept area looked great. I pulled it out of the parts bath and this is what I found:

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At least the driver's side was still in good shape. There was no play in the swivel bearings, either, so I didn't want to disassemble the whole thing. A rag wipe would have to suffice. I did pop out both swivel pins for a quick grease and gasket replacement. Making sure I had the right gaskets for each part of the repair was a bit of a challenge since Atlantic British doesn't label them consistently or clearly. Matching each seal to its home required a bunch of time with the repair manual and a proper parts diagram.

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I pulled out my torque wrench to torque the bolts, and discovered that somehow the direction selector had broken. This occurred while it was sitting in the drawer in a hard protective case, leaving the drive head to just spin freely. Go figure. After pulling it apart I found that a spring had dislodged itself, and all was well after reassembly.

From there, I was able to seat all the seals and reinstall the drivers side swivel housing on the axle and torque that down.

Next up will be the reinsertion of the axle and CV, and then the passenger side will get the same treatment once I grab a new swivel ball from Jeremy.

Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#62
TigerDan

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I did specify "big ass C-clamp", did I not?! :D

When you put it all back together but before you reconnect the steering links and put the wheels on you'll want to set the swivel bearing preload, it's easy to do just takes a little fiddling. You'll need either en expensive dial torque wrench to set it with total accuracy, or a cheap fish scale will get it "close enough".


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#63
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It seemed big enough at the time!

I hate setting preloads, it's so fiddly. Maybe that's a result of using a spring scale to set them, but I try to avoid it whenever possible. Since I had to tear down the passenger side completely I guess there's no way out of that.

Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#64
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Also: 2 Electrical Questions: 

 

  1. Roof Rack Lights: What's the best way to run wires from the roof rack lights to the interior WITHOUT drilling anything? I particularly don't want to drill the roof.
  2. EAS Disable Switch: My EAS would lower to the bumpstops after 2-4 days of sitting without use. During this repair I left the battery connected but switched the disable switch off and unplugged the ECU. The truck has been resting the full weight on the suspension this full time and has not dropped so much as a centimeter (and I've been measuring). SO - I'm pretty sure it's being goofy and lowering itself. I'd like to tie a switch in behind the EAS disable switch that would cause the system to be disabled whenever the ignition is off, but enabled whenever the ignition is on. Any thoughts on a good way to do this? 

Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#65
astateofmike

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Also: 2 Electrical Questions: 

 

  1. Roof Rack Lights: What's the best way to run wires from the roof rack lights to the interior WITHOUT drilling anything? I particularly don't want to drill the roof.
  2. EAS Disable Switch: My EAS would lower to the bumpstops after 2-4 days of sitting without use. During this repair I left the battery connected but switched the disable switch off and unplugged the ECU. The truck has been resting the full weight on the suspension this full time and has not dropped so much as a centimeter (and I've been measuring). SO - I'm pretty sure it's being goofy and lowering itself. I'd like to tie a switch in behind the EAS disable switch that would cause the system to be disabled whenever the ignition is off, but enabled whenever the ignition is on. Any thoughts on a good way to do this? 

 

 

 

 

 

1.  Will you have a snorkel?  If so, up the gap between snorkel and the windscreen works really well.  If not, I ran mine to the rear of the truck and up the inside of the quarter panel, then fished it through the rear pillar cover (with the vinyl on it) and ran it up to the rack in the back.  Silly drawing, but that is the gist of it. With the Brownchurch, the rear wires pop out in a good spot to go to the roof.  fused of course.

 

2.  EAWhat....loving that my 1988 has none of that.


Edited by astateofmike, 27 July 2015 - 12:01 PM.

Just enjoying my time traveling at the Speed of Adventure.


#66
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Eventually, but I need these wired sooner than I'll have the snorkel. I like your suggestion. There is room at the top of the rear pillar cover to run the wires through there without cutting/drilling anything? If so, that'll be my route of choice.

PS, I rather love that it still has the EAS. None of the previous owners gave up on it, which is awesome!

Edited by E36 Phantom, 27 July 2015 - 12:27 PM.

Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
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FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#67
astateofmike

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I agree that the EAS is cool.  I have actually never ridden in a Classic that still had it.  Almost, but not ever did.

 

Yes. there is a gap in the 1/4 panel to sub structure you can fish wires through and that end cover is hollow with at least 1/4 inch of air space.

 

The top it the trick. Either over the rain gutter and in (I did this with a quick release if the rack has to come off) and you are done.


Edited by astateofmike, 27 July 2015 - 02:03 PM.

Just enjoying my time traveling at the Speed of Adventure.


#68
AdvRovr

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PERFECT. Thanks! That will be the solution. 

 

I am on the lookout for a solid roof without the sunroof - there's just no head room in these things. I won't be so opposed to drilling a small hole properly through that once I have the new permanent roof on, but I imagine there's not much market for the sunroof roofs, so the last thing I want to do is swiss-cheese it and further limit my market. 


Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#69
astateofmike

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True.  I love the sunroof less tin top on mine.  

 

In the corners, there are those raingutter drip holes.  I actually ran my rear line through that and my snorkle is held in place with the one in the front left.


Just enjoying my time traveling at the Speed of Adventure.


#70
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Chapter 4: Turtle's Revenge

Can you believe it's been a month since I last updated the drivetrain repair saga? Neither can I. My wife can, since it's been taking her garage spot. Unfortunately, infants and a crazy workload are not conducive to Rover Repair Progress. So the Turtle of Rover Repair Progress (yes, he's real, you blasphemer) is getting his revenge for my lack of progress. I need the Rover for this weekend, so I'm forced to cram at the last minute and cross my fingers. What could possibly go wrong?

Saturday and Sunday we're both cram days, from about 2-10pm. I conned a buddy into helping me, and thoroughly soured him on Rover ownership.

I obtained a new, great condition swivel ball from Jeremy for a terrific deal. I repacked the bearings, set the preloads, replaced all the seals, and mounted both swivel ball assemblies to the truck.

We also spent the majority of the weekend on the damn transfer case. The RAVE suggested pulling the radiator fan, intake plenum, exhaust, and cross member - and then removing the transmission. Thanks, but no thanks, especially since we didn't have a proper transmission jack. Most suggestions we found said to leave the transmission in place, and that the transfer case could be easily removed with the cross member and exhaust fully in place. I don't believe that's actually possible. After much fighting and wiggling and maneuvering, the best we could do still left about 3/4" of the transmission output shaft in the transfer case. Defeated, we called it a night.

On Sunday afternoon, with the help of NCLR and an email from TigerDan, we attacked it with renewed enthusiasm. Actually, that's a lie. We were badly dreading it. But I digress...

We unbolted the cross member and tapped it down about 2", unbolted the transmission mount, and lowered it down. We wasted some more time trying this to avail, until we gave in and decided to unbolt the Y-pipe from the midsection. Ironically, despite the exhaust bolts looking the worst, they were among the easiest to remove. This was the magic trick, as we could tilt everything further.

The transfer case came out pretty easily once we tilted it that far. All in all, unbolting the exhaust and transmission mounts, and lowering the cross member added about 90 minutes of extra work to R&R, but we spent several hours trying to avoid it. Lesson learned.

The new transfer case went back in fairly easily, and we managed to get most of the linkages and connectors back in place. The only thing left on the transfer case is attaching the selector level itself. I secured all the mounts and exhaust and called it a night. I still needed to mount the front differential, reinsert the axles, remount the brakes, hubs, and drive member, and put the interior back together. No worries. I'll wrap it up Monday, right?

On Monday I was back to back in meetings all day until after 7, and didn't get home until after 9. I ate dinner, did some more work, and crashed. Perhaps Tuesday will be better...

Stupid Turtle of Rover Repair Progress.


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Edited by E36 Phantom, 25 August 2015 - 05:33 PM.

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Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
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FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#71
TigerDan

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Wait till you wind up doing things two or three times before you get it right. Rovers love to make you do things several times, especially the older, neglected ones. I think they just like to finally have someone pay attention to them. One time I got the Y-pipe in and then grabbed the crossmember, only to find I had the order wrong, the crossmember has to go back in before the Y-pipe. Comes from trying to get it done in a hurry and outthinking yourself. So I had to remove the Y-pipe I had just reinstalled, and of course one of the studs broke off in the manifold. WTF, I had just put the nut on that stud a short time before and it went on smoothly with no crossthreading, it just decided to mess with me.

 

If you have the stock Rover bottle jack, they will operate on their side with the pump mechanism down at the bottom so it gets oil. Using a 4X4 block of the appropriate length for a spacer, you can spread the frame rails easily to allow clearance to get the crossmember back in.


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#72
AdvRovr

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I only disconnected the Y pipe from the mid section, and left it attached to the exhaust manifold. And I left the cross member between the frame rails, and just tapped it down a bit. I didn't want to deal with either of those messes....

Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#73
GraemeWare

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Chad,

 

We feel for you, but I bet you could now do a transfer case in about 4 hours .... first one took me 12, but 4 is the norm now.  Never try to get by without removing the exhaust and moving the cross member down.  It is supposed to be possible, but I've never managed to do it without.  The broken exhaust stud is the real pain though, as then you have to take off the manifold to drill it out ... which is why I keep the gaskets in stock .... I also always remove the console, although some people don't.

Oh, and I could have lent you the transfer case to jack adapter ... you need to let the NCLR crew know what you're up to so we can help you, or at least heckle from the sidelines.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
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1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#74
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Wow! Nice progress. Subscribed!

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#75
AdvRovr

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Chapter 5:

I finished a few more things last night. That's nice, but not important.

What matters is that I apparently gave up after torquing down the front differential last night. I awoke on the garage floor, still partly under the Rover, at about a quarter to 2 this morning. Not fun.

Edited by E36 Phantom, 27 August 2015 - 07:32 AM.

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Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#76
TigerDan

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You'll know you have it bad when you find that you prefer sleeping under your Rover to sleeping in your own bed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I haven't quite reached that stage yet myself. Almost, but not quite.


Edited by TigerDan, 26 August 2015 - 07:42 AM.

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#77
erinw.rrc

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You'll know you have it bad when you find that you prefer sleeping under your Rover to sleeping in your own bed.

 

OMG... I laughed at this so hard right now. 


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#78
AdvRovr

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You'll know you have it bad when you find that you prefer sleeping under your Rover to sleeping in your own bed.






















I haven't quite reached that stage yet myself. Almost, but not quite.

Maybe I'm a wuss, but I'd much rather sleep IN my truck than UNDER it.:rofl: A real bed still wins by a large margin, though.

Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
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FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#79
AdvRovr

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Chapter 6: There's Always Something

The Turtle was gracious enough to let me make some reasonable progress. But was he done with me? Oh no, he still wanted to teach me a lesson.

There's a collar that goes on the axle shaft behind the CV joint to space it properly. It wasn't mentioned in the DIY I was following and I hadn't noticed it in the RAVE. I just discovered that it was completely missing, destroyed by the exploding CV I assume. It's almost impossible to source locally, and I'm hoping that West Coast British comes through for me today (he said he thought he could get it). I'm supposed to head up to Leavitt Lake tomorrow night, and need that ASAP if I'm going to make it.

So, progress? I'm finally at the point where the list of things to do is shorter than the list of things done. I still need to button up the passenger side hub, mount the brake calipers, refill the front diff fluid, connect the steering rods, and replace the interior. I think that's all doable tonight after work if I get the collar in time. It drives me batty that a 1/4" wide, 1" diameter ring is holding all this up and could potentially make me miss this weekend.

We shall see....

Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#80
TigerDan

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Have you tried contacting Jeremy to see if he has one? As long as he has a front axle from either side, it should have the spacer on it.


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