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Help! Radiator Fill Cap Issues!

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15 replies to this topic

#1
Cobra1951

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So I was absolutely ecstatic to receive my Land Rover back yesterday finally! It's been 3 years since I drove it and after I did as much as I could work-wise it sat in the repair shop for 2 months. Yesterday while doing a little cruise, I stopped at a restaurant and my buddy had notified me that coolant was leaking everywhere. I assumed it was a rotted hose or something because after 3 years I was expecting more problems.

 

When it was time to go home I opened the hood to pour water in to make it back and I discovered a little hole where the fill cap was supposed to be; no hoses damaged, no clamps missing, just an odd hole. Today after ordering a new one from the dealership, I decided to work on getting the old cap out but to my demise, it looks like the plastic melted inside the reservoir opening. I don't know how to get it out to replace it with a new fill cap and I am starting to panic because shavings are falling into the radiator and I dont want to cause more damage. Any help please???

 

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#2
GraemeWare

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Use an "easy out" as you would for a regular broken off metal screw to remove the plastic one.  Replace with a brass one ....

 

This is a common problem.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


Edited by GraemeWare, 27 August 2015 - 04:12 PM.

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#3
Disco2Guy

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To get the cap out, I'd start by shoving a shop towel into the hole (cut it flush to the top) and use a Dremel to cut a slot in the cap. The towel should catch the shavings from falling in and use a vacuum to suck them up. Then try a large flat head screwdriver to twist it out. If it's melted to the threads it might be better to just replace the radiator, flush the system. Either way the replacement should be a brass plug which you can get from GraemeWare on here.

 

edit: Of course he's already replied;)


Brenton Corns
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#4
Cobra1951

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To get the cap out, I'd start by shoving a shop towel into the hole (cut it flush to the top) and use a Dremel to cut a slot in the cap. The towel should catch the shavings from falling in and use a vacuum to suck them up. Then try a large flat head screwdriver to twist it out. If it's melted to the threads it might be better to just replace the radiator, flush the system. Either way the replacement should be a brass plug which you can get from GraemeWare on here.

 

edit: Of course he's already replied;)

Damnit...It is solidly melted in place...I guess this means I have to buy a new radiator. I found a new one on Rovers North for $399 is this a good deal or is there one somewhere else that's cheaper?



#5
Cobra1951

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Here are links to all the radiators I've found. Dunno which to go with so that I wont have issues in the next 5 years and my truck will run better. Any suggestions?

 

http://www.roverpart.../Parts/ESR3687K

 

http://www.roversnor...px?code=PLC019A

 

http://www.ebay.com/...7bac7d1&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/...5e7d377&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.jcwhitney...id=d1378y1998j1

 

http://www.autoparts.../discovery.html



#6
Disco2Guy

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I'd go for the Rovers North option, but be prepared for the shipping charge. The ones on eBay or JCW might be ok, but I never have faith in them. For Land Rover parts, I  want to be able to call the seller and ask questions if there's an issue and they know what you're talking about.


Brenton Corns
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post-472-0-05786100-1439104512.jpg


#7
TomOwen

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Go to a sprinkler place and get a "puller". It is like a "T" handled ez out with barbs facing counter clockwise... Work it in and torque left. The other tool I use for broken sprinkler is a gnarled shaft that has a cam'd section that expands inside the broken pipe and twists it out from the inside...

Good luck and hop this helps

:lr:
Tom Owen
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#8
GraemeWare

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Damnit...It is solidly melted in place...I guess this means I have to buy a new radiator. I found a new one on Rovers North for $399 is this a good deal or is there one somewhere else that's cheaper?

 

No new rad needed.  Easy-out and if it is really solid use a heat gun to assist.  Where are you?  It will take me less than ten minutes.

 

And I think someone mentioned ERR4686B  is ....

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#9
DHappel

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I'm with Graeme - a big easy out should do it or as Tom mention you may be able to use a sprinkler tool which is basically the same thing.  It's possible it won't work if the plug and body have really melted into one solid piece but you've got very little to loose - a few bucks for a tool vs a few hundred for a rad.  As for the plastic shavings, just drain the radiator and flush with fresh water after you get it out.  Most of them should come out as long as you haven't run the truck to circulate them around the system.  And honestly the few that don't come out likely won't be an issue.

 

Put the credit card down and step away from Ebay!  We've got this!

 

Again, where are you?  One of us should be within reach.


Edited by DHappel, 28 August 2015 - 07:47 AM.

Don
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'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#10
Cobra1951

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I'm with Graeme - a big easy out should do it or as Tom mention you may be able to use a sprinkler tool which is basically the same thing.  It's possible it won't work if the plug and body have really melted into one solid piece but you've got very little to loose - a few bucks for a tool vs a few hundred for a rad.  As for the plastic shavings, just drain the radiator and flush with fresh water after you get it out.  Most of them should come out as long as you haven't run the truck to circulate them around the system.  And honestly the few that don't come out likely won't be an issue.

 

Put the credit card down and step away from Ebay!  We've got this!

 

Again, where are you?  One of us should be within reach.

 

Thanks for all the input everyone. I stopped by the repair shop that helps me when I have difficult with the truck that i cant figure out on my own. They had a really really oversized flat head screw driver; as soon as he jammed it in the hole the cap twisted right out. *PHEW* I appreciate all the replies.

 

I have another question. My truck engine runs really hot. Is this normal for the disco I engines or is this a bigger problem such as a blown head, broken water pump, broken thermostat?



#11
DHappel

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It's a known issue to be careful of with any of the Discos. The question is how to is it? Under what conditions does it get that hot? If it's running 230 just going down the highway we've got a problem. If it's 220 probably at the top of the OK range. I'll let the guys with more knowledge of these motors get into more detail.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#12
Cobra1951

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It's a known issue to be careful of with any of the Discos. The question is how to is it? Under what conditions does it get that hot? If it's running 230 just going down the highway we've got a problem. If it's 220 probably at the top of the OK range. I'll let the guys with more knowledge of these motors get into more detail.

The temp gauge reads normal I'm talking about the physical heat of the engine. Everything is scorching hot under the hood after I drive even though the temp is below normal.



#13
TomOwen

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The temp gauge reads normal I'm talking about the physical heat of the engine. Everything is scorching hot under the hood after I drive even though the temp is below normal.

 

Hard to calibrate "scorching hot" but these motors do create a lot of heat under the hood.

 

Hmmm so how would we create a standardized measurement for comparison? IR temp of Valve cover? Block? Shock tower? and some way to capture ambient temp...  Some mathematical gymnastics and we have a standard?  

 

Just a thought...


:lr:
Tom Owen
NCLR Vice President

__________________________________________________________________________
'96 Discovery I, 122k, 5sp, RoverWare Bumper, Winch, ARB, BFGs, LEDs, OMEs, SD, etc...

On a slow transition from Carpool to Trail with the help of this Club

Y2K Toyota Land Cruiser Series 100
; Cooper A/T3s, PacaSport, glitter, hair-bows, jolly ranchers and juice box stains...

@TomOwen


#14
GraemeWare

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Hard to calibrate "scorching hot" but these motors do create a lot of heat under the hood.

 

Hmmm so how would we create a standardized measurement for comparison? IR temp of Valve cover? Block? Shock tower? and some way to capture ambient temp...  Some mathematical gymnastics and we have a standard?  

 

Just a thought...

 

Tom,

 

Not so easy on a Discovery or an RRC as on a Defender, but while in Saudi the British military found that they could fry an egg on the hood of their Defenders in about three minutes .....

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#15
DHappel

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IR temp guns are cheap these days and handy to have around - that's really going to be the only way to establish a common number, though still you've got a lot of variables that could effect your measurements.


Don
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#16
AdvRovr

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It's disconcerting, but cars like this with big V8s in relatively small bays do pump a ton of heat out since there's not much room for it to dissipate underhood. If the coolant is reading properly I doubt there's a problem. It's the same story on BMWs and other makes. Stand next to a BMW V8 that's been idling at temp for a while on a hot day and you'll cook your ankles.

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