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Tire Iron/Lug Nut Size Confusion

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6 replies to this topic

#1
Cobra1951

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When I bought my rover it didn't come with a jack and the tire iron was way too small to fit on my lugs; I think it was the 1 1/16" lug wrench but I never measured to be sure.

 

I don't have any way to take the tires off on my own unless I am at a tire shop and was wondering if anyone might know the size of my lugs. I went to Autozone before a when I bought the socket the guy asked if I was changing the tire on a semi truck; it still didn't fit because the socket was too thick to fit in the lug slot. I'd really like to find the correct fitting size.

 

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#2
AdvRovr

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27mm or 1-1/16" are correct. You can try a 28 or 1-1/8", but even on the worst of them those have always been too large to grip the nut. A standard socket ought to fit with plenty of clearance.

Those nuts are no longer usable like that. You can buy a brand new OEM set, or buy an old solid set from early Classics, or do what I did: remove the caps and use the existing lug nuts without caps.

Here's some more information;
http://norcalrovers....d-Classic-build)#entry164119

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#3
Cobra1951

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27mm or 1-1/16" are correct. You can try a 28 or 1-1/8", but even on the worst of them those have always been too large to grip the nut. A standard socket ought to fit with plenty of clearance.

Those nuts are no longer usable like that. You can buy a brand new OEM set, or buy an old solid set from early Classics, or do what I did: remove the caps and use the existing lug nuts without caps.

Here's some more information;
http://norcalrovers....d-Classic-build)#entry164119

Interesting. It is a Disco 1 by the way. So what I have on the vehicle is not the regular nuts? Is that the locking nuts; maybe thats why I've had difficulty finding a tool to get them off?

 

That would explain why the original tool didnt work so would it be these that I should switch to? http://www.roversnor...pe=0&eq=&key=it but then it makes them super simple to remove the wheels and steal



#4
Disco2Guy

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When the lug nuts get over torqued by an impact gun the caps expand and you get what you're dealing with. The steel nuts you linked to aren't meant to be used with the alloy wheels. Factory rims a hub centric and the steel wheels are lug centric as explained to me by Frank Cerrone.


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#5
AdvRovr

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Interesting. It is a Disco 1 by the way. So what I have on the vehicle is not the regular nuts? Is that the locking nuts; maybe thats why I've had difficulty finding a tool to get them off?

 

That would explain why the original tool didnt work so would it be these that I should switch to? http://www.roversnor...pe=0&eq=&key=it but then it makes them super simple to remove the wheels and steal

No, those are the regular nuts. They're not locking, they're just a lousy design, that's all. If you Google a bit, you'll see you're one of thousands who have had this trouble on their trucks. 

 

The link you posted would not be correct for your wheels. You can get ones that are exactly the same as your current ones except without the cap and with a solid top, or you can do what I posted in the link for 10 minutes and the cost of one M16 bolt and have normal lug nuts again. 

 

No one is going to steal stock Disco 1 wheels. No one. 

 

When the lug nuts get over torqued by an impact gun the caps expand and you get what you're dealing with. The steel nuts you linked to aren't meant to be used with the alloy wheels. Factory rims a hub centric and the steel wheels are lug centric as explained to me by Frank Cerrone.

Also, I believe steel nuts fastening against an alloy could cause corrosion issues, no?


Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#6
psykokid

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No, those are the regular nuts. They're not locking, they're just a lousy design, that's all. If you Google a bit, you'll see you're one of thousands who have had this trouble on their trucks. 

 

The link you posted would not be correct for your wheels. You can get ones that are exactly the same as your current ones except without the cap and with a solid top, or you can do what I posted in the link for 10 minutes and the cost of one M16 bolt and have normal lug nuts again. 

 

No one is going to steal stock Disco 1 wheels. No one. 

 

Also, I believe steel nuts fastening against an alloy could cause corrosion issues, no?

 

Chad's correct on the no one is going to steal your stock wheels - unless it's your friends harassing you for giggles.. 

 

As far as corrosion on the stock alloys, the original beauty capped lugs and the solid style RRC lugs are both made out of steel as well. I've seen lugs that have come on east coast trucks and they can get all sorts of crusty.. I'm just glad we live out west and don't have to deal with the cancer that is rust like they do back east and across the pond in blighty..



#7
TigerDan

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What I do with lug nuts with stretched caps is use a 1-1/16 6-point socket (don't use a 12-point socket) and hammer it onto the lug nut, break the nut loose and then with it still on the stud I can work it up and down, side to side with either my impact gun or an extension for leverage to get it back off the nut, and then just slip the socket back on enough to grip the now-loose nut and spin it the rest of the way off. This also helps to compress the cap a little bit and you can salvage many of your capped nuts if they're not too stretched and only have to replace the worst ones.


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