Jump to content

Welcome to NCLR - Northern California Land Rover Club
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. This message will be removed once you have signed in.
Login to Account Create an Account
Photo

RRC Overheating Test

- - - - -

  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1
ndamico

ndamico

    KK6TBF

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,174 posts
  • Sacramento, CA
  • KK6TBF
  • 2010 LR4
  • 1995 RRC LWB

Since getting my RRC, if its pretty hot out and I run the AC coupled with no (idling) or slow vehicle speed where the engine RPM is very low, it overheats.  it happened last time when i was winching myself out of some mud and my daughter was sleeping in the back seat.  ended up boiling over.  This is a big problem as she likes to nap in the RRC and if i can't run the AC at idle for more than 5 minutes, then its a big deal breaker.  As luck should have it one of my customers manufactures radiators and air coolers.  I took a used unit down there for the to examine.  they were able to source the in tank coolers so they ended up building a larger core for an existing unit.  I installed it last night.  hopefully this does the trick.  here are some pictures of the new unit as well as the old core.. first thing i noticed was it is WAY heavier than the old unit.  also seems to hold a decent amount more coolant.

Attached Files


Edited by ndamico, 25 September 2015 - 07:23 AM.

  • PaulD likes this

Nick

2010 LR4 HSE-Lux/HD. Compos w/ Toyo Open County AT2 265/65R18, IIDTool, Baja Rack.

1995 RRC LWB.  3" RTE Lift/Bumpers, 7100SB Shocks, 255x85R16 Toyo MT's, Mantec Snorkel, Ashcroft Lockers/Axles/CV's/4.12 Gears, GBR Driveshafts & Thrust Bolts, LT230, QT Diff Guards, Voyager Rack, Winch, Sliders, Dual Batteries, ARB Twin Compressor, Kenwood D710G HAM Radio, Xantrex Inverter, Swing Away & Sliders.

 

My Rover Pics


#2
astateofmike

astateofmike

    Traveling at the Speed of Adventure

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,220 posts
  • 1988 Range Rover Classic
  • NCLR 004

Maybe you should share the name of your customer..as I had to source my radiator from back east, and this would be way better for the future...

 

and I bet there are a few people who would avail your customer of their services...


  • PaulD likes this

Just enjoying my time traveling at the Speed of Adventure.


#3
SLOHybrid

SLOHybrid

    Driver

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 939 posts
  • SLO
  • 95 RRC 25th 4.6
  • 04 L322
  • 87 RRC
  • 94 4.6 RRC LWB CRAWLER

Nick,  check that your fan clutch is working also.

 

I have been getting the Nissens (dutch) radiators lately as there is not a lot of choice and they work well...  I sold one last week to Paul Dunn for $390 + tax if anyone is interested?


  • PaulD likes this

NCLR 093

Traversing Defense Mine Waterfall
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=JqczzhsWOh8


#4
JFuller

JFuller

    NCLR Guest

  • NCLR Guest
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,090 posts
Second the fan clutch question also did Dan replace the water pump or thermostat? Are your electric fans working properly? Does the rrc even have electric fans? If it doesn't you could always add some. We do that with the classic cars that are used in parades.

#5
AdvRovr

AdvRovr

    NCLR Treasurer

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,301 posts
  • Lathrop
  • K6ADV
  • 97 Range Rover 4.0

Nick, check that your fan clutch is working also.

I have been getting the Nissens (dutch) radiators lately as there is not a lot of choice and they work well... I sold one last week to Paul Dunn for $390 + tax if anyone is interested?

Nissens is a solid brand, I've used them in BMWs several times and I couldn't tell any difference in build quality from the OEM Behr unit.
  • PaulD likes this

Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#6
ndamico

ndamico

    KK6TBF

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,174 posts
  • Sacramento, CA
  • KK6TBF
  • 2010 LR4
  • 1995 RRC LWB

Second the fan clutch question also did Dan replace the water pump or thermostat? Are your electric fans working properly? Does the rrc even have electric fans? If it doesn't you could always add some. We do that with the classic cars that are used in parades.

fan clutch appears to work.  it starts roaring when things get hot.  it does have elec fans which run when AC is on as well as when temps go up.  i dont know the condition of the thermostat, but that's an excellent question. i suppose water pump could be inefficient too perhaps?

 

i will say after driving up to the cabin today with the AC on the running temp is just a little lower on the gauge.  when i got here i let it idle for a long time with the AC on.  eventually the temps did start going up :(   it seemed to take a lot longer, but it isn't 110* out either.  one thing that was very different was the temp got up a ways so i brought it up to about 2000rpm in park and within about 5 seconds the temp gauge fell all teh way back to normal.  would that mean thermostat?  maybe insufficient flow at idle to open it far enough?


Nick

2010 LR4 HSE-Lux/HD. Compos w/ Toyo Open County AT2 265/65R18, IIDTool, Baja Rack.

1995 RRC LWB.  3" RTE Lift/Bumpers, 7100SB Shocks, 255x85R16 Toyo MT's, Mantec Snorkel, Ashcroft Lockers/Axles/CV's/4.12 Gears, GBR Driveshafts & Thrust Bolts, LT230, QT Diff Guards, Voyager Rack, Winch, Sliders, Dual Batteries, ARB Twin Compressor, Kenwood D710G HAM Radio, Xantrex Inverter, Swing Away & Sliders.

 

My Rover Pics


#7
DHappel

DHappel

    NCLR Trip Ambassador

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,955 posts
  • Walnut Grove, CA
  • KK6TBH
  • '07 LR3 with stuff
  • '96 D1 Roadster
  • '94 RRC
  • '96 D1
I would not think thermostat based on your description. No reason for it to change based on rpm. On the other hand water pump performance could mist definitely be affected by an increase in rpm. That would be my first tough - insufficient flw at low rpm due to a poor impeller in the pump oerhaps?

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#8
TomOwen

TomOwen

    -

  • NCLR Guest
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,818 posts
  • Atherton, CA
  • KG6DHD
  • 1996 Discovery 1

I would not think thermostat based on your description. No reason for it to change based on rpm. On the other hand water pump performance could mist definitely be affected by an increase in rpm. That would be my first tough - insufficient flw at low rpm due to a poor impeller in the pump oerhaps?


Don, rpm = Flow... makes sense to me but I don't understand how the blades would change without causing other problems down stream. Bits of blade, etc... would end up elsewhere in the cooling system no? If bearings are bad, that would be noticeable in various ways... Hmmmm..

:lr:
Tom Owen
NCLR Vice President

__________________________________________________________________________
'96 Discovery I, 122k, 5sp, RoverWare Bumper, Winch, ARB, BFGs, LEDs, OMEs, SD, etc...

On a slow transition from Carpool to Trail with the help of this Club

Y2K Toyota Land Cruiser Series 100
; Cooper A/T3s, PacaSport, glitter, hair-bows, jolly ranchers and juice box stains...

@TomOwen


#9
ndamico

ndamico

    KK6TBF

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,174 posts
  • Sacramento, CA
  • KK6TBF
  • 2010 LR4
  • 1995 RRC LWB

are there different water pumps out there for these engines?  cheaper vs better?  Maybe dan can chime in?  has anyone seen anything different as far as design goes?  its possible mine is damaged i guess.how are they constructed?  metal impeller? plastic?  i know on some of the TDI vw's the plastic impeller would start to slip on the shaft until it spun free.  the solution was a good quality metal impeller.


Nick

2010 LR4 HSE-Lux/HD. Compos w/ Toyo Open County AT2 265/65R18, IIDTool, Baja Rack.

1995 RRC LWB.  3" RTE Lift/Bumpers, 7100SB Shocks, 255x85R16 Toyo MT's, Mantec Snorkel, Ashcroft Lockers/Axles/CV's/4.12 Gears, GBR Driveshafts & Thrust Bolts, LT230, QT Diff Guards, Voyager Rack, Winch, Sliders, Dual Batteries, ARB Twin Compressor, Kenwood D710G HAM Radio, Xantrex Inverter, Swing Away & Sliders.

 

My Rover Pics


#10
AdvRovr

AdvRovr

    NCLR Treasurer

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,301 posts
  • Lathrop
  • K6ADV
  • 97 Range Rover 4.0

Is it possible you haven't bled the system thoroughly? Often times raising the RPMs will force an air bubble through and let the temps drop back down, only to have it slowly build up over time again.


  • TomOwen and PaulD like this

Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#11
DHappel

DHappel

    NCLR Trip Ambassador

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,955 posts
  • Walnut Grove, CA
  • KK6TBH
  • '07 LR3 with stuff
  • '96 D1 Roadster
  • '94 RRC
  • '96 D1
Good thought on bleeding. Some designs are notoriously hard to bleed.

Tom, I was thinking more like a plastic impeller that had maybe eroded down somewhat do to age or cavitation. I don't actually know how the water pump is made so I was just trying to think of something that would be rpm related.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#12
RON CT110

RON CT110

    NCLR Club Member

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,739 posts
  • 2004 DII
  • 2007 LR3 V8 HSE/HD

Is it possible you haven't bled the system thoroughly? Often times raising the RPMs will force an air bubble through and let the temps drop back down, only to have it slowly build up over time again.

 

I was thinking the same.

 

(Although it was on a DII not RRC), Brenton, Justin and I were helping a NCLR guest with an overheating problem @ BR BBQ a few months ago.  Thoroughly bleeding solved the problem.


  • PaulD likes this

Tread Lightly Trainer: http://www.treadlightly.org/
SPOT Adventures: http://www.spotadven...?trip_id=178167
"Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but by the moments that take our breath away" - Anonymous


#13
ndamico

ndamico

    KK6TBF

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,174 posts
  • Sacramento, CA
  • KK6TBF
  • 2010 LR4
  • 1995 RRC LWB
Well i just replaced the rad thursday night, so air would sound likely. This am i got up and checked coolant and the resivoir was empty so she definitely burped. Hopefully that was it. With this bigger rad I've added about an extra gallon so far. Fingers still crossed!
  • TomOwen, PaulD and Jethro like this

Nick

2010 LR4 HSE-Lux/HD. Compos w/ Toyo Open County AT2 265/65R18, IIDTool, Baja Rack.

1995 RRC LWB.  3" RTE Lift/Bumpers, 7100SB Shocks, 255x85R16 Toyo MT's, Mantec Snorkel, Ashcroft Lockers/Axles/CV's/4.12 Gears, GBR Driveshafts & Thrust Bolts, LT230, QT Diff Guards, Voyager Rack, Winch, Sliders, Dual Batteries, ARB Twin Compressor, Kenwood D710G HAM Radio, Xantrex Inverter, Swing Away & Sliders.

 

My Rover Pics


#14
PaulD

PaulD

    NCLR Club Member

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 207 posts
  • Templeton, CA
  • 1993 RRC LWB
  • 1991 RRC -- Caught Fire
  • 1967 NADA 109 - SOLD
  • 1967 Series IIA 88 - SOLD
  • 1964 Series IIA - Stolen

Even the great Nathan Harrison has admitted to cutting corners and NOT carefully adding coolant (50/50...!) via the coolant tower on the heater return pipe. Add coolant, run it a little, check level, add collant, etc. until she's just right.

 

The guage should just show below 1/2 way when@ operating temp. -- That's the general consuses from the "think tank."

 

--Paul


'93 LWB
2" RTE Springs, GDE w/8K winch, Disco axles, Viair, Dura-Tracs, & Asst'd grille badges

12e11964-24f6-4630-a08f-5758456bc143.jpg


#15
Guest_Pedram_*

Guest_Pedram_*
  • Old/deleted account
I haven't seen older models with plastic water pumps before. I've replaced many on my disco. I never buy the cheapest stuff either. But I don't go all out either. I think there last time I bought one was an AC Deloco brand. Same with the fan clutch and blade. I had some cooling issues before that. Now I just have unrelated motor issues.

Mobile texter with some tappingtalkeršŸ“³

#16
DHappel

DHappel

    NCLR Trip Ambassador

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,955 posts
  • Walnut Grove, CA
  • KK6TBH
  • '07 LR3 with stuff
  • '96 D1 Roadster
  • '94 RRC
  • '96 D1
Chad spent the last 2 days on the trail and didn't seem to have any issues. Problem sorted?
  • PaulD likes this

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#17
SLOHybrid

SLOHybrid

    Driver

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 939 posts
  • SLO
  • 95 RRC 25th 4.6
  • 04 L322
  • 87 RRC
  • 94 4.6 RRC LWB CRAWLER

Even the great Nathan Harrison has admitted to cutting corners and NOT carefully adding coolant (50/50...!) via the coolant tower on the heater return pipe. Add coolant, run it a little, check level, add collant, etc. until she's just right.

 

The guage should just show below 1/2 way when@ operating temp. -- That's the general consuses from the "think tank."

 

--Paul

Nothing to do with cutting corners!  I never do a 50/50 mix!  In CA where I live 70/30


  • PaulD likes this

NCLR 093

Traversing Defense Mine Waterfall
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=JqczzhsWOh8





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users