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LR3 Electrical Problem- Imagine That.

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17 replies to this topic

#1
NThyrring

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I have been pulling my hair out for a week chasing a ghost in the machine.
I keep blowing the fuse (F2) that powers the right side running lights.
The entire right side goes out, that includes the front indicator, the front side indicator, the entire rear cluster and the added Kaymar LED.

It is a 10 A fuse. I have tried upping it to 15 A and 20 A, with the same failed results.

I started by replacing the fuse and trying to tell if it was a truck position or starting sequence problem.
After that give me no positive results, I took the rear cluster apart and inspected the wires where I soldered in the Kaymar bumper lights.
All the connections are good and properly insulated with heat shrink.
Next I tried wiggling all the wires in the harness and connectors to see if I could find a short.
After that I switched the drivers cluster for the passenger cluster; same problem.
The next thing I tried was taking all of the lights out of the harness and adding them in one at a time.
I also tried metering the outlets as well as the quick connects.
Everything metered out at approximately 12 V, and I couldn't find any shorts.

The frustrating part is that the fuse blows at random times. For example, it may blow the minute that I replace the fuse, or when I start the truck, it may blow when I plug the rear cluster back in, or it may not go until the next day.

I have gone through 15 fuses, and at this time I still have not been able to duplicate the point when the fuse blows.

Please help me before I loose my mind.
Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#2
ndamico

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Have you tried disconnecting a specific part and leaving it unhooked for a while, until you are sure the problem wont reoccur? I would start with added stuff like your kaymar bumper.

Nick

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#3
NThyrring

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Yes, I have disconnected everything from the circuit.
The fuse blows whether there is a load or not.
Which means that there must be a short or malfunction somewhere.
I just don't know how to find it.
Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#4
RedRover

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You've started the right "component isolation" steps - Nick has the right idea on longer term intermittent issues. Start disconnecting items on the circuit until it's fully isolated. Good luck - wish I could be of more help.

J

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#5
GraemeWare

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I have been pulling my hair out for a week chasing a ghost in the machine.
I keep blowing the fuse (F2) that powers the right side running lights.
The entire right side goes out, that includes the front indicator, the front side indicator, the entire rear cluster and the added Kaymar LED.

It is a 10 A fuse. I have tried upping it to 15 A and 20 A, with the same failed results.

I started by replacing the fuse and trying to tell if it was a truck position or starting sequence problem.
After that give me no positive results, I took the rear cluster apart and inspected the wires where I soldered in the Kaymar bumper lights.
All the connections are good and properly insulated with heat shrink.
Next I tried wiggling all the wires in the harness and connectors to see if I could find a short.
After that I switched the drivers cluster for the passenger cluster; same problem.
The next thing I tried was taking all of the lights out of the harness and adding them in one at a time.
I also tried metering the outlets as well as the quick connects.
Everything metered out at approximately 12 V, and I couldn't find any shorts.

The frustrating part is that the fuse blows at random times. For example, it may blow the minute that I replace the fuse, or when I start the truck, it may blow when I plug the rear cluster back in, or it may not go until the next day.

I have gone through 15 fuses, and at this time I still have not been able to duplicate the point when the fuse blows.

Please help me before I loose my mind.

 

Nils,

 

I feel your pain ... Katrina does the same, but only on very steep bumpy uphill sections of trail (just when you need the power to pull you through).  I've taken out 9 fuses and currently have a 40A in there to see what I can burn free (I don't recommend that method).  In my case it can be a number of things (including coil and O2 sensors) and trying to find a place to isolate individual items is almost impossible.   My money is on the O2 sensor(s) but the last fuse it blew was at the Annual and the prior 8 were on the Deer Valley trail.  I've done over 2000 miles between those incidents ....

 

In your case I'd take a good hard look at the back of the fuse box ....

 

A question:  Does your alarm still work?  I think those flash the lights on arming and disarming, no?  Just a thought ....

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#6
lilcrawler

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I feel your pain too. My engine management computers started randomly losing power. That was fun.

It sounds like it's fusebox time. Do you have any water leaks?

Edited by lilcrawler, 18 November 2015 - 08:02 PM.

Tyler
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#7
DHappel

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Unlike the DI and DII, the LR3 isn't known for killing fuse boxes.  I wouldn't be quick to suspect the box itself.  I'm more likely to suspect something related to the front or rear bumper installation since they are 'add-ons', plus they are prone to getting smacked around on the trail.  

 

Graeme had a good plan when he was looking for the super-random ignition fuse problem on Katrina - add smaller fuses on each suspect circuit to further isolate the problem.  If you can track down the power feeds to both bumpers for example, you can tap in a simple fuse holder and say 5A fuse.  The next time you should blow that before blowing the main fuse at the box, and that would give you at least a direction to look.

 

Of course, trying to trace wiring in a newer vehicle is a nightmare.  I can only sympathize on that point.


Don
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#8
NThyrring

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Graeme had a good plan when he was looking for the super-random ignition fuse problem on Katrina - add smaller fuses on each suspect circuit to further isolate the problem.  If you can track down the power feeds to both bumpers for example, you can tap in a simple fuse holder and say 5A fuse.  The next time you should blow that before blowing the main fuse at the box, and that would give you at least a direction to look.

Don,

 

Great idea.

I built this multi-fuse harness add in last night.

 

So far, so good.

Attached Files


Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#9
Volkov

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Wow, that is quite the intricate contraption. Any update on progress?

 

Drew


Edited by Volkov, 21 November 2015 - 08:38 AM.


#10
NThyrring

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Two days, nothing blown.
Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#11
DHappel

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Of course.  Because if it were regular instead of intermittent you might have an actual shot at finding it.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#12
GraemeWare

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Nils,

 

Ah, I think I know your problem.  There is something called a "gremlin".  It sleeps most of the time but once in a while wakes up and reeks havoc around a Land Rover.  When it tires [pun intended] it goes back into hibernation for a few weeks, sometimes even a few months, but then something wakes it up.  It sometimes jumps from one truck to another when they are parked close to each other.  Normally they live in the same vehicle for many many years though and are the most mischievous animals you can imagine.  They love playing practical jokes and just don't know when to stop.  Sometimes, but very very rarely, they do die, but I believe their average lifespan is about 67 years.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


Edited by GraemeWare, 29 November 2015 - 07:28 PM.

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#13
NThyrring

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Tomorrow I am going to add in the license plate light.
Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#14
NThyrring

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Found it.

It turns out that it was a faulty connection inside the license plate light that I added to my swing out gas can carrier.

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Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#15
DHappel

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I should have guessed that....I had the same problem after the OR trip.  My jerry can had chafed through the licence plate light wiring and it popped the fuse, which took out all the running lights on that side of the truck.  Mine was a hard-short though, so no random intermittent stuff to track down. 

 

At least I was right to guess starting with the bumpers since they were the last thing you added.

 

Glad you got it sorted and it was something simple.  Frustrating, but simple.


Don
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#16
NThyrring

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Nils,
 
Ah, I think I know your problem.  There is something called a "gremlin".  It sleeps most of the time but once in a while wakes up and reeks havoc around a Land Rover...  Normally they live in the same vehicle for many many years though and are the most mischievous animals you can imagine. 
 
Regards,
 
Graeme


I didn't even make it 6 hours.

Now my front right ARB Bumper light is out.

Attached Files


Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#17
DHappel

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I didn't even make it 6 hours.

Now my front right ARB Bumper light is out.

 

 

Don't feel bad, my left front is out.  I haven't checked to see if it's wiring or bulb related.


Don
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#18
Volkov

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Those ARB lights seemed really cheap...I would start with the bulb

 

Drew






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