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Oil and Filters and Brake Pads, Oh My!

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9 replies to this topic

#1
lilcrawler

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The time comes to do some fairly major servicing on the DII. I want to get everything 100% together before the Rubicon.

I have a few questions:
What brake pads are you guys running? I need to do mine before I drive back to CA, so something that is good, but sourced easily is nice.

My other question has to do with oil. Right now I am running Shell Rotella T 15w-40 on the recommendation of the Land Rover forums. Since temperatures here drop below freezing at night, should I change to 5w-40?

Also, what filter should I get? Right now I have the Mobile 1 filter recommended by the Land Rover forums, but I have seen some things about people running a Davidson filter.

Thanks,
Tyler
Tyler
2004 DII- Not modified heavily enough

I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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#2
DHappel

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I'm no expert in Discos, but some general thoughts:

 

The OEM brake pads are generally pretty good.  Low dust and low squeal.  I have OEM the front of mine but did a change to Wagner Thermo-quiet on the rear early this year...not impressed.  I may well ditch them and put a set of stocks back on.  Either that or I'll look for an upgrade from Akebono or EBC since I'm much heavier than stock, particularly with the tires.

 

What is the manufacturer's spec on the oil?  I know a lot of people play games with heavy oils but honestly I'm not sure they actually make any 'improvement'.  15w40 is a popular HD diesel oil - I'm not sure Rotella is SM rated?  I'd have to look.  I am sure it's CJ (diesel) rated, but it may be a dual-spec oil.  Going down a grade for winter is probably a good idea, though again I recommend deferring to the LR literature.    As for brand, I happen to use a lot of Delo 400 in the marine world so I buy it 100 gallons at a time and generally have it sitting around.  It's very similar to Rotella; designed as a HD diesel oil, but I do know Delo is a dual-rated (CJ/SM) oil suitable for use in most gas motors.

 

For filters I use a lot of WIX.  I used to be able to by them on Amazon very inexpensively but they'v gone up a lot this summer.  I think they were basically selling cheap to get people in the habit of buying direct, then they raised the prices hoping nobody would notice.  Fleetguard, Davidson, Baldwin, and Napa Gold are all good filters as well, though not as common outside of the fleet world.  If you have a Napa in town (they are good about locating in smaller rural areas so maybe?) I'd run a Napa Gold, otherwise I'd look at what you can get on Amazon easily.

 

Honestly, brand of oil and filter is less important than regular changes.  (OK, if you buy Fram filters you'll get some grief but the fact is I've ever only seen one of them fail).  I can't think of a single oil-related failure I've seen on a late model engine.  Of course, the old Rover motor isn't the most modern design either (hence the 15w40...nobody runs that in a modern car!)

 

If you have some time on your hands and want to do some real technical digging on oil and filters, visit Bobistheoilguy.com   Those guys are serious about oil - not just 'my brother used to work on cars and says use xxx'.


Edited by DHappel, 20 November 2015 - 08:35 AM.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#3
lilcrawler

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I'm no expert in Discos, but some general thoughts:
 
The OEM brake pads are generally pretty good.  Low dust and low squeal.  I have OEM the front of mine but did a change to Wagner Thermo-quiet on the rear early this year...not impressed.  I may well ditch them and put a set of stocks back on.  Either that or I'll look for an upgrade from Akebono or EBC since I'm much heavier than stock, particularly with the tires.
 
What is the manufacturer's spec on the oil?  I know a lot of people play games with heavy oils but honestly I'm not sure they actually make any 'improvement'.  15w40 is a popular HD diesel oil - I'm not sure Rotella is SM rated?  I'd have to look.  I am sure it's CJ (diesel) rated, but it may be a dual-spec oil.  Going down a grade for winter is probably a good idea, though again I recommend deferring to the LR literature.    As for brand, I happen to use a lot of Delo 400 in the marine world so I buy it 100 gallons at a time and generally have it sitting around.  It's very similar to Rotella; designed as a HD diesel oil, but I do know Delo is a dual-rated (CJ/SM) oil suitable for use in most gas motors.
 
For filters I use a lot of WIX.  I used to be able to by them on Amazon very inexpensively but they'v gone up a lot this summer.  I think they were basically selling cheap to get people in the habit of buying direct, then they raised the prices hoping nobody would notice.  Fleetguard, Davidson, Baldwin, and Napa Gold are all good filters as well, though not as common outside of the fleet world.  If you have a Napa in town (they are good about locating in smaller rural areas so maybe?) I'd run a Napa Gold, otherwise I'd look at what you can get on Amazon easily.
 
Honestly, brand of oil and filter is less important than regular changes.  (OK, if you buy Fram filters you'll get some grief but the fact is I've ever only seen one of them fail).  I can't think of a single oil-related failure I've seen on a late model engine.  Of course, the old Rover motor isn't the most modern design either (hence the 15w40...nobody runs that in a modern car!)
 
If you have some time on your hands and want to do some real technical digging on oil and filters, visit Bobistheoilguy.com   Those guys are serious about oil - not just 'my brother used to work on cars and says use xxx'.


The Rotella is dual rated. If I was to drop a grade, I'd have to do my oil change early, which isn't a big deal, but I am wondering how much it actually matters whether or not I drop a grade. I do have a NAPA in town, so I may look there. What I've been seeing across the board is people improving oil capacity by adding a longer filter, but I'm not sure it matters that much.

Where would I source OEM pads? I'd prefer to do my brakes this weekend, so I have less car work to do during finals week.
Tyler
2004 DII- Not modified heavily enough

I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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#4
psykokid

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On the rover V8 use the Wix 51515 filter. It's a little larger than the stock filter, and is readily available for around 10 bucks at O'Reilly.  Unless it gets really cold and you are way outside the operating window of your oil I'd just stick with the 15W40. It will take a little longer to get up to temp, but will be fine overall. As far as brake pads, Mintex and Ferodo are both OEM's for Rover. I prefer the Ferodo's over the Mintex's in the rover. I ran the Mintex pads in all my VW's for years, but in the rover when I put a set on the rear of the disco they squeaked like nobodys business. The next set of pads I put on were Ferodo's and they have been good, not squeaky like the Mintex pads were.



#5
SLOHybrid

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I recommend (not that you will listen :P )  coopers ERR3340 filter cheap @ $7.50 ea  the OE long filters are a thing of the past NLA.... Brake pads I recommend Bosch quiet cast!  they work well on my cars and we use them on all the Cayenne's @ work. $45 for the front & $35 for rear.   I use Motul oils in my cars but it is hard to get ( we are a dealer). Synthetic is only good if you have been running it in the car.


Edited by SLOHybrid, 20 November 2015 - 09:47 AM.

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#6
Disco2Guy

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LR pads seem to work well for me and seem to have the best stopping power. But they are also the most $$$ and may not be your best option for a college budget. I have noticed that the rotors usually need changing faster after running the LR pads, but that's more likely a combo of my lead foot on both pedals. My current set of brakes (rotors & pads) came from Will Tillery and have been fine so far. The rotors are Pilenga, though I forget who made the pads. He has great prices and can fit any budget.

 

Better get a set of the rotor locator screws, and use some anti-seize on them. Jared and I did Alyson's rear brakes before the WNLRR and had to drill the heads off. Once the rotors were removed I could unscrew those bolts with my fingers. The threads were fine, it was just the underside of the head that corroded to the rotor.

 

For the oil filter, I run either the Mobil1 M-301 filter, or the K&N HP- 3001. These are the longer versions over stock.


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#7
yarrover

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I recently used Akebono on my rears. So far good, planning to replace the front ones with the same.

 

For Oil i use Castrol conventional with Wix filters mostly, or K&N (when i find a good deal).


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#8
DiscoDavis

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seconded on castrol and K&N. Castrol edge (formerly syntec) is around $35-$40 for two 5qt containers at walmart (literally the only thing I go there for), in 5w30. K&N just because I got a few at an okay price and they have not leaked at all like the dealer filter marked 'Land Rover' that came with my truck. 

 

Have used textar pads for a while but they make way too much dust. Will try akebonos too in front when rotors get swapped.


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#9
DHappel

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seconded on castrol and K&N. Castrol edge (formerly syntec) is around $35-$40 for two 5qt containers at walmart (literally the only thing I go there for), in 5w30. K&N just because I got a few at an okay price and they have not leaked at all like the dealer filter marked 'Land Rover' that came with my truck. 

 

Have used textar pads for a while but they make way too much dust. Will try akebonos too in front when rotors get swapped.

 

I absolutely HATE Walmart and refuse to go there.  Except to buy oil.  I've called wholesalers asking to buy Delo 400 in 55 gallon barrels and they STILL can't beat Walmart.  The only drawback is they usually only have gallon jugs.  Sometimes the 2.5 gallon.  But never the 5 gallon.

For a filter:

http://www.amazon.co...words=wix 51515

 

Assuming you have a prime account, you can have it on your doorstep in 2 days.  Works for me.


Edited by DHappel, 01 December 2015 - 06:12 PM.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#10
lilcrawler

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I went with the Bosch Quiet Cast pads. We will see if Nathan's recommendation was a good one. I'm going to try and put them on tomorrow.
Tyler
2004 DII- Not modified heavily enough

I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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