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Disco3/LR3 thermostat failure

* * * * - 1 votes LR3 thermostat cooling CEL

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14 replies to this topic

#1
DiscoDavis

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Oddly enough I got a PM from another member asking how long it takes my truck to warm up nowadays so it got me thinking. Idling I can expect around 20 minutes at Bay Area winter temps of between 40 and 50 F, while at tahoe around 26F it will take at least 30. Driving immediately probably cuts 10, maybe 15 minutes off that time. 

 

Have heard mumblings about this for a while on the other forums, but just didn't think about touching the coolant system since mine never had any issues at all. 

 

No joke within a week of that discussion, I went to Tahoe for the holiday, had no issues, then came home. Today heading down a long hill around home, truck throws a CEL. Stop at buddy's house, run codes, get this:

 

P0128-00 (AA) Coolant thermostat (coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature) 

 

No way! My best guess is long downhills cool the engine more than it thinks it should, and since the thermostat has gone bad, it keeps the entire loop open, and cools it down too much. Thank god LR made it fail open... Left buddy's house later in the day and got the code again on the way home. Clears and stays cleared for a while if I keep heaters on since the computer will accept a colder temp because I'm leeching heat.

 

Gonna grab a thermostat at the dealer on monday if they have one, I'm really glad its a cheap and easy to replace part. Fellow 3 owners, anyone else have this go?

 

http://www.roverpart...arts/LR005765GK (AB listing for thermostat)

 

http://www.roverpart...ange-rover-lr3/ (vid is for RR, same principle though) 


Edited by DiscoDavis, 02 January 2016 - 03:04 AM.

  • RedRover likes this

:lr:

2006 Discovery 3(Build Thread)

1995 Discovery 

1990 110

 

Instagram: CondorDavis

 

23669857085_fe30f0934c.jpg


#2
DHappel

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I have popped that code maybe 2 or 3 times over the last couple years.  The first time(s) were quite a while back and I didn't know the thermostats were a common item on them then.  Since the truck was running fine and actually showing correct on the dash gauge I just reset the code and went on.  I hadn't seen it again in over a year and had forgotten about it then recently it popped up again.  Once again, the truck was running fine and the dash gauge read correctly so I wasn't worried but I figured it meant a thermostat was in the near future but I wasn't rushing it.

 

I think I've got a 10% AB coupon around somewhere, maybe I'll go ahead and get one ordered.


  • RedRover likes this

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#3
GraemeWare

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I think I've got a 10% AB coupon around somewhere, maybe I'll go ahead and get one ordered.

 

Don,

 

RoverWare can do OEM for $39 and will be in stock in about 10 days ....

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


  • BEAR likes this

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#4
DHappel

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(grumble)

 

well sure....should have ordered one from you I guess.  It was about $10 more from AB w/o-ring, but I ordered it pretty much right after I wrote that last post.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#5
DiscoDavis

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Just did the swap last night. It was kind of a disaster but that was my fault. Don, I would recommend doing it since mine had not totally failed yet but the gasket was almost half off the thermostat. No joke they do start peeling off like LRNA says. Mine was running fine but I really wanted that peace of mind, and I am glad that I did it. Make sure if you get it from Graeme/whoever that you get the tiny gasket for the cover too. 

 

I had the thermostat, and the new gasket for the housing cover, cost $77 at dealer, with a gallon of LR XLC coolant undiluted in case I needed more coolant (I ended up just using 50/50 Prestone Dex-cool that I had around the house since it was late when I finished and I had no patience for messing with any more coolant)

 

Did not remove thermostat cover (the piece that holds the t-stat) from the engine bay and instead tried to work on it there with the hoses still connected (in an effort to make it easier). I then proceeded to drop the tiny thimble that seats the thermostat head, somewhere into the engine bay. Cue 3 hours later, took apart front end, shields, plastic trim, coolant bottle, front headlights, nothing. Fortunately parts man at dealership here helped me find a replacement part that contained this tiny thimble piece and so I paid a very expensive lesson for my mistake. 

 

PART TWO. 

 

Get home with new part 20 minutes later, now dark outside. Proceed to try and reassemble t-stat, which I know now to be nearly impossible since it will be upside down and you need considerable force to compress the springs enough. I decide okay I'll try this another way, take thermostat out, but the thimble thing slips off the end of the spindle.... INTO THE RADIATOR FEED HOSE. THATS RIGHT THE GIANT HOSE THAT FALLS THROUGH THE ENGINE BAY AND INTO THE RADIATOR. Now my radiator and or hoses are now holding this tiny metal piece inside. I freak out, and immediately think the world is going to end. Not only have I lost the same part twice, this time I know where it is and if I cant get it out it will probably break something.

 

I pull the radiator tube, coolant flies everywhere, all over me, a few pads, and the ground, which is muddy leaves. My coolant drainings in a clean pan are now ruined from dirt and leaves. BUT THE THIMBLE CAME OUT. I cried tears of sweet sweet joy and proceeded to immediately bag it up for safety. 

 

Took all parts needed from engine bay. Reassembled T stat in kitchen. Reinstalled all hoses and t stat, including O ring (which I would replace btw since its only a dollar or so). Filled coolant from new bottle, then burped the system which took a while but is not actually hard. the IID tool was super nice for telling all sorts of stuff, like coolant and oil temp, and engine and fan speed in rpm. 

 

LONG STORY SHORT

 

If I knew what I was doing and hadn't been lazy or not focused on how important some parts were I could have knocked this out in minutes. It is literally that simple. I added a good 5 hours of work/searching/disassembly/crying because I lost two of those tiny thimbles, the second time necessitating a draining of the radiator.

 

remove engine cover

remove bleeder tube outlet from T stat cover and let some coolant drain from that location

remove 3 screws holding t stat cover

remove the other two hose clamps and hoses from t stat cover

take inside and swap thermostat, make sure you swap over tiny thimble thing (AKA xanthor, destroyer of wallets)

remove and replace gasket @ engine with some tiny pliers

replace cover with new t stat on engine with the 3 screws

reattach hoses

 

fill coolant system

bleed/burp

fill as needed

get engine to 198-210F(which is where thermostat opens)

shut down, let cool, check coolant level

add coolant if necessary

do process one more time

 

done.


:lr:

2006 Discovery 3(Build Thread)

1995 Discovery 

1990 110

 

Instagram: CondorDavis

 

23669857085_fe30f0934c.jpg


#6
BEAR

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Don,

 

RoverWare can do OEM for $39 and will be in stock in about 10 days ....

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

 

Can I order one from you? I don't need it yet but I want to add it to my spare parts


Edited by BEAR, 08 January 2016 - 06:13 PM.

Concord CA,
2006 LR3 SE with HD
Baja Rack, Gap EAS IID tool, LEDramized 40" light bar and work lights, BFG TA/KO tires, ARB Fridge Freezer, Front Runner Drawers, PowerTank 20lbs Co2 tank, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Traxide duel battery kit. Tactical Rovers Sliders and Rear Bumper

On Instagram @ bear_republic_overland
"waiting for an adventure"

SmugMug https://nclrbear.smugmug.com/

Instagram https://www.instagra...ublic_overland/

IMG_1224-S.jpg


#7
DHappel

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  • '94 RRC
  • '96 D1

Just did the swap last night. It was kind of a disaster but that was my fault. Don, I would recommend doing it since mine had not totally failed yet but the gasket was almost half off the thermostat. No joke they do start peeling off like LRNA says. Mine was running fine but I really wanted that peace of mind, and I am glad that I did it. Make sure if you get it from Graeme/whoever that you get the tiny gasket for the cover too. 

 

I had the thermostat, and the new gasket for the housing cover, cost $77 at dealer, with a gallon of LR XLC coolant undiluted in case I needed more coolant (I ended up just using 50/50 Prestone Dex-cool that I had around the house since it was late when I finished and I had no patience for messing with any more coolant)

 

Did not remove thermostat cover (the piece that holds the t-stat) from the engine bay and instead tried to work on it there with the hoses still connected (in an effort to make it easier). I then proceeded to drop the tiny thimble that seats the thermostat head, somewhere into the engine bay. Cue 3 hours later, took apart front end, shields, plastic trim, coolant bottle, front headlights, nothing. Fortunately parts man at dealership here helped me find a replacement part that contained this tiny thimble piece and so I paid a very expensive lesson for my mistake. 

 

PART TWO. 

 

Get home with new part 20 minutes later, now dark outside. Proceed to try and reassemble t-stat, which I know now to be nearly impossible since it will be upside down and you need considerable force to compress the springs enough. I decide okay I'll try this another way, take thermostat out, but the thimble thing slips off the end of the spindle.... INTO THE RADIATOR FEED HOSE. THATS RIGHT THE GIANT HOSE THAT FALLS THROUGH THE ENGINE BAY AND INTO THE RADIATOR. Now my radiator and or hoses are now holding this tiny metal piece inside. I freak out, and immediately think the world is going to end. Not only have I lost the same part twice, this time I know where it is and if I cant get it out it will probably break something.

 

I pull the radiator tube, coolant flies everywhere, all over me, a few pads, and the ground, which is muddy leaves. My coolant drainings in a clean pan are now ruined from dirt and leaves. BUT THE THIMBLE CAME OUT. I cried tears of sweet sweet joy and proceeded to immediately bag it up for safety. 

 

Took all parts needed from engine bay. Reassembled T stat in kitchen. Reinstalled all hoses and t stat, including O ring (which I would replace btw since its only a dollar or so). Filled coolant from new bottle, then burped the system which took a while but is not actually hard. the IID tool was super nice for telling all sorts of stuff, like coolant and oil temp, and engine and fan speed in rpm. 

 

LONG STORY SHORT

 

If I knew what I was doing and hadn't been lazy or not focused on how important some parts were I could have knocked this out in minutes. It is literally that simple. I added a good 5 hours of work/searching/disassembly/crying because I lost two of those tiny thimbles, the second time necessitating a draining of the radiator.

 

remove engine cover

remove bleeder tube outlet from T stat cover and let some coolant drain from that location

remove 3 screws holding t stat cover

remove the other two hose clamps and hoses from t stat cover

take inside and swap thermostat, make sure you swap over tiny thimble thing (AKA xanthor, destroyer of wallets)

remove and replace gasket @ engine with some tiny pliers

replace cover with new t stat on engine with the 3 screws

reattach hoses

 

fill coolant system

bleed/burp

fill as needed

get engine to 198-210F(which is where thermostat opens)

shut down, let cool, check coolant level

add coolant if necessary

do process one more time

 

done.

I feel your pain.  I think we've all had one of those 'this will be easy' jobs that was anything but due to some silly mistake.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#8
GraemeWare

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Can I order one from you? I don't need it yet but I want to add it to my spare parts

 

I have two (and gaskets) coming.  I'll let you know when they are on the website and you can place the order online (saves a lot of confusion and saves my memory!).

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#9
BEAR

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I have two (and gaskets) coming.  I'll let you know when they are on the website and you can place the order online (saves a lot of confusion and saves my memory!).

 

Graeme

thanks, will do


Concord CA,
2006 LR3 SE with HD
Baja Rack, Gap EAS IID tool, LEDramized 40" light bar and work lights, BFG TA/KO tires, ARB Fridge Freezer, Front Runner Drawers, PowerTank 20lbs Co2 tank, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Traxide duel battery kit. Tactical Rovers Sliders and Rear Bumper

On Instagram @ bear_republic_overland
"waiting for an adventure"

SmugMug https://nclrbear.smugmug.com/

Instagram https://www.instagra...ublic_overland/

IMG_1224-S.jpg


#10
DiscoDavis

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  • 1995 Discovery
  • 1990 110

Barron if you want we can do this together whenever you get the part. Now I know what NOT to do... 


:lr:

2006 Discovery 3(Build Thread)

1995 Discovery 

1990 110

 

Instagram: CondorDavis

 

23669857085_fe30f0934c.jpg


#11
BEAR

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Barron if you want we can do this together whenever you get the part. Now I know what NOT to do... 

I don't need one right now. I just don't have an extra one if it fails on the trail.


  • DiscoDavis likes this

Concord CA,
2006 LR3 SE with HD
Baja Rack, Gap EAS IID tool, LEDramized 40" light bar and work lights, BFG TA/KO tires, ARB Fridge Freezer, Front Runner Drawers, PowerTank 20lbs Co2 tank, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Traxide duel battery kit. Tactical Rovers Sliders and Rear Bumper

On Instagram @ bear_republic_overland
"waiting for an adventure"

SmugMug https://nclrbear.smugmug.com/

Instagram https://www.instagra...ublic_overland/

IMG_1224-S.jpg


#12
DHappel

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  • '94 RRC
  • '96 D1

I did mine today and sure enough the seal was about half way pushed out on the thermostat.  Pre-warned by DiscoDavis' troubles, I just removed the whole cover and swapped the guts instead of trying to do the change with it still attached to the hoses.  No problems, and I hardly lost any coolant at all since I clamped off the lines prior to removing them.  Super-easy job; probably took 15 minutes not counting the time to warm the truck up fully to burp the system. (watched it get to 195* on the GAP tool idling in the driveway).

 

Now I should have max-power heat and defrost for the Shaver run!  I was having some trouble defogging the windshield on the Wentworth Springs run last month - hopefully this will sort that little issue out.


  • DiscoDavis likes this

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#13
GraemeWare

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Don,

 

Just did my F150 that had been running cold for half a year .... thermostat stuck open (I knew what a pain one bolt is to get to, so had been procrastinating. It took 45 minutes to unscrew, 1/12 turn at a time).  I went for a really expensive thermostat ... $2.38 rather than $0.94   Anyone wonder why my daily hack is a Ford?

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#14
alpaca

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Isn't the lr3 prerty much a ford :)

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
2006 RRS
2002 911

2003 E46
2008 C300

2015 Cherokee


#15
DHappel

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I thought it was a BMW?  

 

No wait, it's a Jaguar - that's it!


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock






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