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Installed 180 degree thermostat in disco 2; questions about temps

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#1
Andrew Winding

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With the thermostat I had in the truck when I bought it I was seeing temps of high 190's to low 200's around town and mid 190's to high 190's on the freeway.  What got me to want to replace the thermostat was the idle temps; at idle my temps would go up to 221 so I replaced the thermostat with a 180 from Rover's North; their in house brand one not the genuine. 

 

Now my temps are a consistent 203 degrees...whether city or highway I'm seeing 203 degrees.  At idle, the temp never goes above 206.6 and if I rev the engine while parked the temp will drop into the low 190's.  This is all with heater and ac off.  I don't know if I bled the system correctly but I bled it twice.  So I fixed my idle temp issue but my driving temps are now higher...any ideas on why?  Should I just go with the genuine LR 180 thermostat?



#2
lilcrawler

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With the thermostat I had in the truck when I bought it I was seeing temps of high 190's to low 200's around town and mid 190's to high 190's on the freeway.  What got me to want to replace the thermostat was the idle temps; at idle my temps would go up to 221 so I replaced the thermostat with a 180 from Rover's North; their in house brand one not the genuine. 
 
Now my temps are a consistent 203 degrees...whether city or highway I'm seeing 203 degrees.  At idle, the temp never goes above 206.6 and if I rev the engine while parked the temp will drop into the low 190's.  This is all with heater and ac off.  I don't know if I bled the system correctly but I bled it twice.  So I fixed my idle temp issue but my driving temps are now higher...any ideas on why?  Should I just go with the genuine LR 180 thermostat?



Is the viscous fan good? Does your heater work? An air pocket in the system will cause temperatures to rise. It could also be a radiator that is partially blocked, but that doesn't explain why your driving temps went up after replacing the thermostat.
Tyler
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I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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#3
GraemeWare

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Is the viscous fan good? Does your heater work? An air pocket in the system will cause temperatures to rise. It could also be a radiator that is partially blocked, but that doesn't explain why your driving temps went up after replacing the thermostat.

 

Tyler,

 

And of course it could be the same as yours ....

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#4
lilcrawler

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Yes... It could. But we hope not.
Tyler
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I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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#5
Andrew Winding

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Both fans are good and the heater does work. Im thinking their has to be air in the system. I tried to bleed the system using the RAVE method but i never could get coolant to come out of the bleed screw. Im thinking ill park the passenger side on a curb and try the rave method again. Maybe ill add coolant through the bleed screw hole before trying to bleed the system.

#6
GraemeWare

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Both fans are good and the heater does work. Im thinking their has to be air in the system. I tried to bleed the system using the RAVE method but i never could get coolant to come out of the bleed screw. Im thinking ill park the passenger side on a curb and try the rave method again. Maybe ill add coolant through the bleed screw hole before trying to bleed the system.

 

Andrew,

 

You know that the vehicle must be at temperature to bleed anything out of the bleed screw?  You won't get anything out when the system isn't pressurized as it is at a high point.

 

I assume your temperature reading are via the OBD2 port?  Is that accurate?  My guess is your viscous fan is not very efficient, or someone has taken off the radiator cowling plastic.  Or you have a partially blocked radiator.

 

Graeme


Edited by GraemeWare, 25 January 2016 - 06:09 PM.

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#7
Andrew Winding

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Everything I've read about bleeding made it seem like you had to bleed while cold but I did it both ways anyway. On the way home tonight I saw temps of low 190s on the freeway and high 190s in the city, idle at 208 after 10 minutes parked. Stopped at a gas station to try bleeding the system and found coolant flowing from the bleed screw. Temps are from an obd bluetooth reader but I have no real way to know if the readings are accurate, I can only assume they are...what's the best way to test the viscous fan?

#8
DHappel

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That last post does make me want to agree with Graeme.  Sounds more like a marginal cooling system component (rad, fan, shroud) than air in the system.


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#9
Andrew Winding

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My temps seem to be all over the place...today while driving to work my freeway temps were 199 and wouldn't budge, city temps were the same and idle was 204.  Checked the fan today before starting the truck and found that the fan did spin and it had a little resistance in it.  This is normal right?  These temp fluctuations are annoying...I want to get my truck ready for spring/summer and I want to make sure it's going to be safe to drive on my adventures.  Radiator cowling plastic is all there, might as well replace the pressure cap to be safe.  How can I test to see if the radiator is clogged and did I test the fan correctly?



#10
JFuller

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Do you have an IR thermometer you could use to check the readings you are getting? Perhaps you have a bum sending unit. Or, as I recently found, your radiator air flow could be blocked by leaves, bugs and dirt and it could be rotting away slowly. Might be wiorth the pull if you have the time

#11
GraemeWare

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My temps seem to be all over the place...today while driving to work my freeway temps were 199 and wouldn't budge, city temps were the same and idle was 204.  Checked the fan today before starting the truck and found that the fan did spin and it had a little resistance in it.  This is normal right?  These temp fluctuations are annoying...I want to get my truck ready for spring/summer and I want to make sure it's going to be safe to drive on my adventures.  Radiator cowling plastic is all there, might as well replace the pressure cap to be safe.  How can I test to see if the radiator is clogged and did I test the fan correctly?

 

Andrew,

 

There is no real test for a viscous fan.  Typically, they will spin with a little resistance when cold.  When you start you should be able to hear the fan spin up, as it distributes the fluid, then after about 5-10 seconds it should go quiet.  It is often hard to hear that though.  When hot (switch the engine off first!) they will have more resistance.

Why are you worried about this?  Your temps are way within spec.  A D2 will generally run at around 194-196, but an indicated 10 degrees higher isn't normally an issue.  Changing the stat to a lower temp won't necessarily change the measured temp that much due to the way the system works.  Look in the Rave manual for how the D2 system works (different to a D1 or RRC) and you'll see why.  If you're at 210-220, you might have a bigger issue.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#12
lilcrawler

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Andrew,
 
There is no real test for a viscous fan.  Typically, they will spin with a little resistance when cold.  When you start you should be able to hear the fan spin up, as it distributes the fluid, then after about 5-10 seconds it should go quiet.  It is often hard to hear that though.  When hot (switch the engine off first!) they will have more resistance.
Why are you worried about this?  Your temps are way within spec.  A D2 will generally run at around 194-196, but an indicated 10 degrees higher isn't normally an issue.  Changing the stat to a lower temp won't necessarily change the measured temp that much due to the way the system works.  Look in the Rave manual for how the D2 system works (different to a D1 or RRC) and you'll see why.  If you're at 210-220, you might have a bigger issue.
 
Regards,
 
Graeme


I agree with Graeme on this one. 204 idle seems normal. Mine was running at 220 no matter what I did, and it turns out that that was a much bigger issue.
Tyler
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I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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#13
Andrew Winding

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I guess I'm just worried because other peoples readings I've seen with the 180 have been much lower than mine and I want to make sure that when it's 115 degrees this summer that my truck will not be in danger of overheating. I know the numbers now are within spec, just looking into the future...




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