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'96 D1 Door Lock Actuator Rebuild

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12 replies to this topic

#1
lilcrawler

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Well, I've pulled the actuator out of the fifth door because it wasn't strong enough to completely unlock it. Does anyone know how to get the case apart to view the internals? I've been trying all afternoon with no luck.
Tyler
2004 DII- Not modified heavily enough

I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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#2
GraemeWare

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Tyler,

 

D1 has an actuator and a latch.  You are really talking about the actuator, yes?  If yes, then does the latch respond to a light pull/push to lock/unlock it?

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#3
lilcrawler

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Graeme, This is the offending part.

x2oRmZ6.jpg


If you are asking if the linkage between the actuator and the latch mechanism itself, it is not sticky at all, and the door will open if the lock is pulled up lightly. I think that there is a spring inside the actuator itself has broken or rattled loose somehow.
Tyler
2004 DII- Not modified heavily enough

I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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#4
GraemeWare

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If you are asking if the linkage between the actuator and the latch mechanism itself, it is not sticky at all, and the door will open if the lock is pulled up lightly. I think that there is a spring inside the actuator itself has broken or rattled loose somehow.

 

Tyler,

 

So if you "assist" the actuator by slightly lifting the flat tab locking button, it works fine?  If so, it is the latch spring that is at fault and the actuator (what you picture) is fine.  I have springs here, I think.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#5
lilcrawler

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Tyler,
 
So if you "assist" the actuator by slightly lifting the flat tab locking button, it works fine?  If so, it is the latch spring that is at fault and the actuator (what you picture) is fine.  I have springs here, I think.
 
Regards,
 
Graeme


Graeme, not quite. It's almost like the weight of the lock itself overwhelms the actuator and pushes itself back down to a "locked" position. I'm pretty sure something is messed up inside the actuator itself, but I'm not exactly sure where your latch spring comes into play. How do I check that?
Tyler
2004 DII- Not modified heavily enough

I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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#6
GraemeWare

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Graeme, not quite. It's almost like the weight of the lock itself overwhelms the actuator and pushes itself back down to a "locked" position. I'm pretty sure something is messed up inside the actuator itself, but I'm not exactly sure where your latch spring comes into play. How do I check that?

 

Tyler,

 

The latch spring helps to overcome gravity.  If the actuator fires in and out with 12V, then you're good.  They don't have that much force; they only have to 'tip' the latch.

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#7
lilcrawler

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Tyler,
 
The latch spring helps to overcome gravity.  If the actuator fires in and out with 12V, then you're good.  They don't have that much force; they only have to 'tip' the latch.
 
Graeme


Ahh. I see now. I thought that the spring was built into the actuator. I need a latch spring then. It does fire when 12v are applied, and does not have that much force. I also need one for the drivers side rear door.
Tyler
2004 DII- Not modified heavily enough

I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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#8
myroverleaks

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Tyler,

 

So if you "assist" the actuator by slightly lifting the flat tab locking button, it works fine?  If so, it is the latch spring that is at fault and the actuator (what you picture) is fine.  I have springs here, I think.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

 

Tyler,

 

The latch spring helps to overcome gravity.  If the actuator fires in and out with 12V, then you're good.  They don't have that much force; they only have to 'tip' the latch.

 

Graeme

Graeme knows, This is great advice and it should be looked at first. Those latches suck and make me never wanting to own a disco/classic ever again.



#9
Guest_Pedram_*

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I bought some generic lock actuators for mine. I replaced all but the drivers door because that one has 5 wires going to it. A classic will be on both front doors since that's the main control for the system lock. If you can turn the key and arm your alarm system then you need something original or figure out how the little switch inside works. I've taken mine apart for a few days trying to figure it out.

I found these online. Should fit directly in yours without much modification. It goes on much easier than you think. Just figure out the direction of the lock before you button up everything (when you lock your door, the lock should move into the lock position). They cost almost nothing. Maybe $20 for all four. I paid more from a local stereo shop. Found out the hard way but hey it works.

Attached File  uploadfromtaptalk1454306174395.jpg   165.76KB   4 downloads

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#10
Guest_Pedram_*

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You only need the actuators. And they fit into the original location.

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#11
dcproven

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I replaced all of mine also with the cheap ones, and been working fine for over a year now...


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#12
RedRover

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Those latches suck and make me never wanting to own a disco/classic ever again.


Agreed - they are annoying and I currently have the fuse pulled to not deal with it... never so annoying I would think to give up my beloved rover though... I just imagine I'm in a pre-actuator RRC... B)
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Jared (KJ6MQI)
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2012 Range Rover HSE - Santorini Black

 


#13
TomOwen

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Looks like you have plenty of help and a variety of ideas...

 

I would only add what some may find obvious but while it's apart, apply grease to everything you can see and even a few things you can't.. I used a zip tie (flat, skinny and long enough) to apply to the internals around the latch and lock on rear doors... This worked wonders for eliminating what you describe. 

 

Good luck,

Tom


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