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What Did You Do With Your Rover Today?

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389 replies to this topic

#121
Guest_Pedram_*

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Justin, stop working on yours.... Your killing me

#122
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Justin, stop working on yours.... Your killing me

found a loading dock at one of my customer's yard. just a little bit of rub on the back of the rear tire but not bad at all.  i never got steep enough to lift a tire.


Try just placing one tire up the ramp. Your gonna have to get a little diagonal to the ramp so you can get a true flex. The way you have it lined up now only gets the truck sideways. If your looking for flex you need to hit only one corner at a time.

But it looks really nice other than that. Curious to see what your new maxtraxs holder looks like now with the bigger tire back there.

#123
RRC300

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Actually did it Monday but was done by the end of the day To post anything. Finally got to changing the leaky swivel ball housing and caliper on the passenger side. Took a little while because of the windy condition but overall disassembly,cleaning, and refit was a breeze. Only thing that I did not finish was bleeding the brakes since I was alone. Finished it up today with the wife pumping the pedals.
All in all took 8 hours, longest part was cleaning and degreasing the swivel ball,hub assembly.
Changed out all seals
Replaced all bearings and races in swivel ball and insid hub
Repacked bearings for hub
Replaced front caliper
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Jasper

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#124
SLOHybrid

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37" Tires can be mounted to a classic!  I had them on Colins old gold truck before he bought it from me... but the inner fender wells (water bottle relocation) as well as the body has to be seriously modified.

 

I would also recommend using Dana 60's under it as the HD Rover parts will implode. :rolleyes:


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#125
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37" Tires can be mounted to a classic!  I had them on Colins old gold truck before he bought it from me... but the inner fender wells (water bottle relocation) as well as the body has to be seriously modified.
 
I would also recommend using Dana 60's under it as the HD Rover parts will implode. :rolleyes:


So you need to tap a few places with a hammer and your done. 15 minute job.

#126
SLOHybrid

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So you need to tap a few places with a hammer and your done. 15 minute job.

yep!  Like Nick did :lol:


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#127
ndamico

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If i were going to go 37 i would have done it this time around. I didnt want to regear it again. My 4.12s are about perfect with the 35s. Maybe ill save the bigger tires for a defender....
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Nick

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#128
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Did I just hear the "D" word?
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#129
SLOHybrid

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Nick... stay with LWB it is way better than a Defender


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#130
Jethro

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Ordered my 3" lift kit for the D1.

#131
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Ordered my 3" lift kit for the D1.


I would also recommend some steering upgrades if you go that route. I haven't seen your rig yet. Sounds like your ready for some fun trails.

#132
Timbo

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For the first weekend in many - absolutely nothing!

Did spend a lot of money on a new house though - with a garage that got 12' ceilings - I see shop air and a lift in my future!
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#133
DHappel

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For the first weekend in many - absolutely nothing!

Did spend a lot of money on a new house though - with a garage that got 12' ceilings - I see shop air and a lift in my future!

Would you like some links to lift companies.... :)

 

My advice - whatever brand you go with spend a few hundred extra and go bigger than you think you'll need.  I'm looking at 9 or 10,000lb untis myself.

 

12' ceilings in a residential garage?  How did you find that?


Edited by DHappel, 13 June 2016 - 11:19 AM.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#134
Timbo

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Would you like some links to lift companies.... :)

My advice - whatever brand you go with spend a few hundred extra and go bigger than you think you'll need. I'm looking at 9 or 10,000lb untis myself.

12' ceilings in a residential garage? How did you find that?

With great difficulty! The house we got has an 3 car garage with one of them an extra tall door for RV's, but all 3 have the same hight ceiling once inside.r. Lucy likes to think that she had the say on the choice of this one - but we all know the truth!😏

Was dong a bit of reserch seems the 4 post are a little easier and have a plus to being movable- I could imagine myself having some quite Interesting balance issues with a 2 post, plus you have to bolt it down and the floor has to be strong enough. Was looking at the bendpak hd9 with the optional bridge jack.

Edited by Timbo, 13 June 2016 - 03:49 PM.


#135
AdvRovr

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I have access to a 2-post via a friend and I don't care for it at all. Even bolted to a ridiculously thick, high-pressure warehouse slab it still has a lot of flex in it and I never feel very comfortable under the vehicle. Plus, having a lift for simple things like fluid changes would be nice, and the time/effort to properly position the vehicle on a 2-post lift isn't worth it for those simple jobs.

 

The solution I decided on for my dream garage is a 4-post lift with a pair of bridge jacks that would still let me get all 4 wheels off the ground if needed. 


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FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#136
DHappel

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This deserves it's own thread.

 

Chad, what brand is the 2-post you're using?  I assume it's a decent quality as it's being used by a professional shop.

 

There is no question a 4-post is faster and easier to use but it's more limited.  Want to lift a body off?  Not going to do that on a 4-post.  Want to change a tire?  You'll need additional equipment like bridges and jacks.  Access to the entire underbody is more limited by the 18-20" wide ramps so suspension work and the like is tougher.

 

On the other hand you don't need to worry about the slab (you may need to cut out and re-pour the area where you're going to install a 2-post if your slab isn't designed for it).  Heck, some 4-posts can even be moved around with a car on them.  And for simple maintenance jobs like changing oil its just point and shoot simple. And it's generally safer since you don't need to worry about balancing the car on it.

 

I'm planning to go with a 2-post to start and may eventually add a 2nd 4 post later.  The idea is I could roll the 4-post outside to get under the truck and clean it up!


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#137
AdvRovr

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It's a Challenger lift. It's not repair-shop grade as they aren't a repair shop, it's just used for R&D occasionally. But it's in a warehouse on a thick, high-pressure slab.

And yes, for a 4 post, I would want a pair of bridge jacks on it.

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Edited by AdvRovr, 14 June 2016 - 08:28 AM.

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#138
DHappel

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Replaced the steering rack on the LR3 today.

 

Not too bad a job, but did take some fiddling to actually get it out and the new one back in place.

 

The only bad part was after hooking the new one up I got carried away triple checking things on the rack prior to starting the truck to bleed the power steering.  When I started it, a geyser of oil shot out.  Oops...I sort of forgot I had removed the oil filter to make room to get the rack out.  You'd be surprised how far and how much oil can shoot out of a Rover motor in only a few seconds.  Oiled down Hello Kitty that was parked on the other side of the driveway.  And for pervs among you, that's not as interesting as it sounds.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#139
JFuller

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Found out that you wouldn't use all the screws that the flexi-flare kit includes when you install said flares. If you do, and you install them in the location you're supposed to, one of the screws will go right through your fuel filler neck. And you probably won't notice for quite a while and right before a wheeling trip. Ugh

#140
AdvRovr

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Yikes. No bueno. 

 

I spent last night following Brenton's video for an end-to-end splice on my winch line. Kudos to those of you who find the process "easy" - I found it time consuming and frustrating (hint, I was able to replace the starter on my brother's 4Runner in less time). Oh well, it's done now and seemed quite solid.


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FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 





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