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LT230 swap

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20 replies to this topic

#1
DiscoChef

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The BW needs to come out of the RRC and be replaced with an LT230 (i have one out of a 98 D1)  Any words of advise from those who have already been through this. 

 

TIA,


Enrique
KI6QBY

NCLR #10 Current Director & Founding Member
1962 Series IIA Reg. Waiting to be restored :(

1967 Series IIA Two Door Pick Up, Daily Driver
1992 RRC SOLD
1995 LWB SOLD
1995 LWB RubiconReady, SOLD
1998 D1, 4.6 Relocated to KY 

1998 D1 Arles Blue. Dismantled 
06 LR3 HSE ARB bumper with Warn Winch

1992 SWB Da Yeti. Dusy Ready


#2
Guest_Pedram_*

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I haven't done this before but maybe make sure you have the linkage in.

Are you doing this at home or do you have someone who's helping?

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#3
SLOHybrid

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A lot of strength & patience!   Make sure you have a Genuine Land Rover and Range Rover Automatic Transmission Output Shaft FTC5090  and a front

 

and a front driveshaft.... did you get the D1 hand brake cable too?  of course all the linkage?

 

I personally would rather overhaul an engine than put these in... I hate doing it.

 

Best of luck.


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#4
lilcrawler

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Dan and I did mine on my DII one. Such a pain. Took about 3 days if I remember correctly.
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Tyler
2004 DII- Not modified heavily enough

I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
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#5
AdvRovr

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I don't know about the swap, but I've removed & replaced both a BW and LT230 and neither of them are fun. 

 

It's awkwardly shaped and doesn't balance anywhere. 

 

A few things that helped me:

  • You must disconnect the Y-pipe from the resonator. Don't try to do it with the exhaust fully in place. 
  • Don't remove the crossmember all the way. Remove all the bolts and use a deadblow to tap it down about halfway off the frame. This way you can just tap it right back up when you're done. 
  • Use a ratchet strap, rope or something else to loop under the t-case and up through the sunroof and over the roof rack to gently lower it down and keep it from falling off the jack.

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#6
JFuller

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I have had my tcase out enough times.  It's not terrible but it take some time.  Never swapped one.  My suggestion would be to get or borrow one of those scissor tranny jacks.  Once you have that you can use some 2x4 and build a jig to hold the t'case in the correct orientation then rachet strap all that to the jack.  if you have another strong friend that helps too.  Before you put that t-case in I would swap the input seal and the intermediate shaft o-ring if you haven't already.  Otherwise you'll get to do it all over again when they start leaking.  

 

Hey while youre at it why not add an underdrive? 


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#7
DiscoChef

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  • Use a ratchet strap, rope or something else to loop under the t-case and up through the sunroof and over the roof rack to gently lower it down and keep it from falling off the jack.

 

LOL- Sounds funny but I can see how this would be helpful.

 

I haven't done this before but maybe make sure you have the linkage in.

Are you doing this at home or do you have someone who's helping?

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

 

Doing this at home.

A lot of strength & patience!   Make sure you have a Genuine Land Rover and Range Rover Automatic Transmission Output Shaft FTC5090  and a front

 

and a front driveshaft.... did you get the D1 hand brake cable too?  of course all the linkage?

 

I personally would rather overhaul an engine than put these in... I hate doing it.

 

Best of luck.

Nathan, would the existing driveshaft from the RRC work with theLT230? Ron installed a Tom Woods one and I'd like to continue to use it if possible. Should I get a new output shaft? the existing one is in good shape.

 

thx.!


Enrique
KI6QBY

NCLR #10 Current Director & Founding Member
1962 Series IIA Reg. Waiting to be restored :(

1967 Series IIA Two Door Pick Up, Daily Driver
1992 RRC SOLD
1995 LWB SOLD
1995 LWB RubiconReady, SOLD
1998 D1, 4.6 Relocated to KY 

1998 D1 Arles Blue. Dismantled 
06 LR3 HSE ARB bumper with Warn Winch

1992 SWB Da Yeti. Dusy Ready


#8
DiscoChef

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I have had my tcase out enough times.  It's not terrible but it take some time.  Never swapped one.  My suggestion would be to get or borrow one of those scissor tranny jacks.  Once you have that you can use some 2x4 and build a jig to hold the t'case in the correct orientation then rachet strap all that to the jack.  if you have another strong friend that helps too.  Before you put that t-case in I would swap the input seal and the intermediate shaft o-ring if you haven't already.  Otherwise you'll get to do it all over again when they start leaking.  

 

Hey while youre at it why not add an underdrive? 

tell me more about the underdrive


Enrique
KI6QBY

NCLR #10 Current Director & Founding Member
1962 Series IIA Reg. Waiting to be restored :(

1967 Series IIA Two Door Pick Up, Daily Driver
1992 RRC SOLD
1995 LWB SOLD
1995 LWB RubiconReady, SOLD
1998 D1, 4.6 Relocated to KY 

1998 D1 Arles Blue. Dismantled 
06 LR3 HSE ARB bumper with Warn Winch

1992 SWB Da Yeti. Dusy Ready


#9
Timbo

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Did it last summer on my 94. (Twice!)

The hardest things were getting the old BW out - if you do not disconnect the trani mount then you cannot quite get the BW out over the lip on the body behind the case. There is a lot more clearance getting the lt back in

Hardest things getting back in are reconnecting tcase mount. You need a fair bit of leverage to get the mount bolt back on the plate.

From memory you will need:

Tcase . - helpful hint - make sure it changes ratios before you put it in!!!!
Disco front drive shaft
Disco 1 tcase linkage. - make sure you have all the bits that connect to the diff-lock there is a ubolt that connects from the lever to a metal plate that connects to the tcase - took me ages to find that metal plate bit,
Trans output shaft. (Has longer splines). -- old one just unbolts
Disco 1 handbrake assembly and cable
New oil seals for tcase input and output shafts.
Disco 1 tcase mount plate to chassis - it's at a different angle than the RRC BW one

You will need a couple of new bolts to mount as the BW has studs where the lt uses bolts - I found that the BW main case bolts are a perfect fit, so just reused them.

I did not drop the exaust.

I sort of wrote up my experiences on the LRR forum.
http://www.lrrforums...230-swap!!!!!!!

Tigers got some good words of wisdom in there - it would have made life a lot esker in refitting.

Edited by Timbo, 26 April 2016 - 01:52 PM.


#10
Timbo

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  • Use a ratchet strap, rope or something else to loop under the t-case and up through the sunroof and over the roof rack to gently lower it down and keep it from falling off the jack.
 

LOL- Sounds funny but I can see how this would be helpful.
 

 
Doing this at home.

Nathan, would the existing driveshaft from the RRC work with theLT230? Ron installed a Tom Woods one and I'd like to continue to use it if possible. Should I get a new output shaft? the existing one is in good shape.
 
thx.!

No - exiting drive shaft is wrong size - can't remember if too short or long but it will not fit.

#11
DiscoChef

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Did it last summer on my 94. (Twice!)

The hardest things were getting the old BW out - if you do not disconnect the trani mount then you cannot quite get the BW out over the lip on the body behind the case. There is a lot more clearance getting the lt back in

Hardest things getting back in are reconnecting tcase mount. You need a fair bit of leverage to get the mount bolt back on the plate.

From memory you will need:

Tcase . - helpful hint - make sure it changes ratios before you put it in!!!!
Disco front drive shaft
Disco 1 tcase linkage. - make sure you have all the bits that connect to the diff-lock there is a ubolt that connects from the lever to a metal plate that connects to the tcase - took me ages to find that metal plate bit,
Trans output shaft. (Has longer splines). -- old one just unbolts
Disco 1 handbrake assembly and cable
New oil seals for tcase input and output shafts.
Disco 1 tcase mount plate to chassis - it's at a different angle than the RRC BW one

You will need a couple of new bolts to mount as the BW has studs where the lt uses bolts - I found that the BW main case bolts are a perfect fit, so just reused them.

I did not drop the exaust.

I sort of wrote up my experiences on the LRR forum.
http://www.lrrforums...230-swap!!!!!!!

Tigers got some good words of wisdom in there - it would have made life a lot esker in refitting.

Funny, I read your write upon LRRF last night


Enrique
KI6QBY

NCLR #10 Current Director & Founding Member
1962 Series IIA Reg. Waiting to be restored :(

1967 Series IIA Two Door Pick Up, Daily Driver
1992 RRC SOLD
1995 LWB SOLD
1995 LWB RubiconReady, SOLD
1998 D1, 4.6 Relocated to KY 

1998 D1 Arles Blue. Dismantled 
06 LR3 HSE ARB bumper with Warn Winch

1992 SWB Da Yeti. Dusy Ready


#12
lilcrawler

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tell me more about the underdrive


It's basically a second transfer case that goes on there to drop your gear ratio even more. I believe Graeme has them for around $3,000, but don't quote me on that. IMO they are not really necessary unless you are doing extreme rock crawling with a manual transmission. The torque converter in an automatic lets you go slow enough that I've never really felt the desire/need to have one.
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Tyler
2004 DII- Not modified heavily enough

I get below 15 mpg on Fuelly!
Posted Image

#13
JFuller

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http://www.ashcroft-...underdrive.html

https://m.youtube.co...h?v=gn0ZI0LUCNQ

Edited by JFuller, 26 April 2016 - 05:04 PM.


#14
Timbo

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Funny, I read your write upon LRRF last night


Hope it was useful. Best idea is to take a good look underneath and visualize what your going to do. Any questions let me know.

Since then I also cut the console. I removed the driver side coin pocket with a Dremel tool. i reused the original side of the tcase leaver molding and just moved it out. To where the edge of the coin poket would have been. Lots of epoxy glue and trimmed ice loly sticks to reconnect.

If you are careful you can lift the console finish up with minimal damage, and restick once re shaped using contact adhesive.

Last thing I need to do (when I can be bothered is to refasten the tcase boot!

I also had to replace the heater hoses that run under the console. Got a bargain on eBay on these - I have some slightly bigger diameter ones spare if interested.

#15
PaulD

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Funny thing: my BW VC TC has gotten me everywhere I've ever pointed. Even up Broken Arrow Trail in Sedona but...

 

I have an LT-230 (from a 1995 Disco) sitting in my garage and the Disco front drive shaft to go with it just ITCHING to get into my RRC, but I want to totally rebuild my LT-230 so that it's sano before gong in... This is going to be my summer project... Maybe we need a HUGE DITD weekend ???

 

--Paul


'93 LWB
2" RTE Springs, GDE w/8K winch, Disco axles, Viair, Dura-Tracs, & Asst'd grille badges

12e11964-24f6-4630-a08f-5758456bc143.jpg


#16
DiscoChef

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A HUGE DITD sounds good! I need to get all the bits lined up and ready for install ( seals, shafts, mounts etc).

Colin drove it a couple of days ago and suggested to Jack up all wheels and then turn the rear wheels, if the front turn at the same time; bad BW TC and it did.
I think it really affects the way it drives and provides white knuckle experience everytime I take a turn over 55mph




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Enrique
KI6QBY

NCLR #10 Current Director & Founding Member
1962 Series IIA Reg. Waiting to be restored :(

1967 Series IIA Two Door Pick Up, Daily Driver
1992 RRC SOLD
1995 LWB SOLD
1995 LWB RubiconReady, SOLD
1998 D1, 4.6 Relocated to KY 

1998 D1 Arles Blue. Dismantled 
06 LR3 HSE ARB bumper with Warn Winch

1992 SWB Da Yeti. Dusy Ready


#17
Timbo

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Mine was driving front wheel drive only when I bought it.

Found that not only was the viciousness sexed, but it had also blown my rear diff.

My son drove it back and forth to school for 8 months before wo fixed it no problem, but was a bit of a challenge going up the hills here!

#18
Guest_Pedram_*

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I've thought about the under drive myself but can't really think why I would pay that much. Doing a double tcase like Toyota guys sounds better but that would require a company to build something. So both ideas are out for me.

But if an under drive shows up at a reasonable price, I'll take it. If you need a hand working on the tcase over a weekend let me know. I'll swing by with tools and a hand. I have a transmission jack sitting at home. I can let you barrow it anytime. I don't plan to use it anytime this year. Or ever.... Lol.
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#19
DiscoChef

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I've thought about the under drive myself but can't really think why I would pay that much. Doing a double tcase like Toyota guys sounds better but that would require a company to build something. So both ideas are out for me.

But if an under drive shows up at a reasonable price, I'll take it. If you need a hand working on the tcase over a weekend let me know. I'll swing by with tools and a hand. I have a transmission jack sitting at home. I can let you barrow it anytime. I don't plan to use it anytime this year. Or ever.... Lol.

Thanks P I'll let you know when but you better bring both hands :D

 

yeah, I don't think I'll be spending three large on an underdrive anytime soon. 


Enrique
KI6QBY

NCLR #10 Current Director & Founding Member
1962 Series IIA Reg. Waiting to be restored :(

1967 Series IIA Two Door Pick Up, Daily Driver
1992 RRC SOLD
1995 LWB SOLD
1995 LWB RubiconReady, SOLD
1998 D1, 4.6 Relocated to KY 

1998 D1 Arles Blue. Dismantled 
06 LR3 HSE ARB bumper with Warn Winch

1992 SWB Da Yeti. Dusy Ready


#20
Guest_Pedram_*

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Now your asking a lot. Two hands cost $




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