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LR4 spare tire well usage and muffler protection

- - - - - lr4 spare tire well

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8 replies to this topic

#1
djoslin

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HI, I am getting a tire carrier for my 2011 LR4 and was thinking to remove the under spare tire to save weight/never going to use it. Wondering if anyone has used the space for anything? compressors? water tanks maybe.

 

Another question is the dual mufflers, they are the lowest hanging part for clearance in the mid section. is there a fix for this? an armor made for that area? I went on some pretty hard trails a few weeks ago and noticed some dents on my muffler pipes in that area right before the spare. I feel like if I don't do something soon they will eventually break.

 

Thanks

Don


–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

 

2011 LR4 HSE
ARB front bumper with WARN XD9000 winch, IPF 900 off-road lights, Voyager ladder, Voyager roof rack, Voyager rock sliders with steps, 2.5 Lift Johnson Rods, 18" Compomotive Wheels, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx 275/65R18, Traxide dual battery kit with Optima Yellowtop D34, Tactical 4x4 rear bumper & tire swing, Frontrunner drawer system & fridge slide, National Luna 52 fridge etc...


#2
DHappel

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This is something I've been over many times.

 

First on the spare location - I don't have anything there currently but for some time I've been doing a mental exercise of adding a water tank and pump there.  With the rear heat you already have engine coolant plumbed to the rear of the rig - it would be easy to tie that to a simple heat exchanger in a water tank.  boom:  hot water.  The catch is finding a tank the right size.  There are tons of ridged poly pre-made tanks out there and you can get kits to add your own ports where you need them, but it's still going to be tough to get something the right size.  Since you'd have to fab up a skid plate and mounting anyway, I think I'd just make a metal box, open on the top, and use a bladder tank.  They are a little more expensive than poly and may pose an issue with the heat exchanger but would offer maximum volume since they will conform to your available size.

 

For a pump, the smallest 12v marine pump would be more than enough.  You don't want a high volume pump anyway since you'll be trying to save water so even the smallest will do the job.  In my case I already have a 6 ga power wire run to a disty block in the cubby on the back/ drivers side for future upgrades so power would be easy.  For the outlet, a simple RV type external plug-in shower would work.  No need for a mixer since you won't be drawing from a separate hot and cold supply.  The filler port would be the hardest part.  I think in my case I would use a generic boat filler (boats are what I do, so naturally that's what I think of first) and mount it into the top of my rear bumper.  With a stock bumper I don't know if you'd have space or want to cut into it, so you'd have to figure out where you want to put the filler so it can gravity feed to the tank.  You'll also need to run a vent line, but that's generally 1/2" and shouldn't be hard to find a space for.

 

On to the mufflers.  The 'turtle' - i.e. the big center resonator, is a low point and commonly bashed up.  The up-stream center muffler also tends to take a beating, as do the two pipes that pass on either side of the diff.  Some people have claimed they cut the exhaust off after the first center muffler (between it and the 'turtle') and put on turn-downs with no ill effects.  "you can't even hear a difference" they say.  Well, let's just say Your Mileage May Vary.  

 

I tried it last year.  First of all, you most definitely CAN hear a difference.  Not so much in the driveway or even on the trail, but on the highway it drones and is pretty annoying.  It wouldn't be so bad in a beater trail rig, but these are still nice trucks.  Maybe if you're not particularly attuned to your truck, or you always blast the stereo it wouldn't bother you.  But I got past the willingness to put up with crappy droning exhaust about 25 years ago.  

 

The bigger problem however was the heat.  The turn downs didn't do a good job of getting the hot exhaust gasses out from under the truck.  This led to me melting the plastic air intake line to my compressor where it passes over the diff (it is behind a heat shield but that wasn't enough).  That let to a suspension failure when the compressor couldn't draw in any air because it sucked the softened plastic pipe closed.  I replaced that pipe and wrapped it in heat shield tape but it still happened again.  This only occurred on 90*+ days when running very slow/idling on the trail, not at street speeds.  Makes sense when you stop and think about it.

 

I ended up putting my exhaust back on.  it's pretty bashed up, plus I've cut it apart and now have it clamped back together, so I'm about to swap it for another stock system I have waiting for me up at British Recyclers.  (actually hoped to pick it up today but Justin was closed for the holiday)   In short, I don't recommend cutting the exhaust like that despite what others say they've done.

 

I believe MagnaFlow offers a cat-back system for these trucks but haven't looked into it.  That may be a way to get rid of the turtle at least, but I'm betting they still route the pipes the same way past the diff since there really isn't much other room there.  And honestly I like the truck being quiet - loud doesn't suit this sort of vehicle in my opinion.


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#3
DHappel

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*edit*

Oh, and even if somebody did make a skid that covered the exhaust (and I think somebody has in England) I don't think I'd want to run it since by it's nature it would have to extend down even lower than the exhaust already does, hence costing even more ground clearance.  And break-over clearance is the major limiting factor on these trucks already.  


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#4
Jethro

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So tactical Rovers sells full undercarriage skid plates so that is an option.

For the spare if you check Expedition portal there are all kinds of use. The most common use to be the long range fuel tank. But I believe the company may have gone out of business. We did have one for sell pretty recently on here.

Also I've seen water tanks linked to the stock compressor for use to wash gear off or take showers.

What tire swing are you going with? I've been considering the front runner one but been using my available funds to build my D1 up lately.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
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#5
djoslin

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This is something I've been over many times.

 

First on the spare location - I don't have anything there currently but for some time I've been doing a mental exercise of adding a water tank and pump there.  With the rear heat you already have engine coolant plumbed to the rear of the rig - it would be easy to tie that to a simple heat exchanger in a water tank.  boom:  hot water.  The catch is finding a tank the right size.  There are tons of ridged poly pre-made tanks out there and you can get kits to add your own ports where you need them, but it's still going to be tough to get something the right size.  Since you'd have to fab up a skid plate and mounting anyway, I think I'd just make a metal box, open on the top, and use a bladder tank.  They are a little more expensive than poly and may pose an issue with the heat exchanger but would offer maximum volume since they will conform to your available size.

 

For a pump, the smallest 12v marine pump would be more than enough.  You don't want a high volume pump anyway since you'll be trying to save water so even the smallest will do the job.  In my case I already have a 6 ga power wire run to a disty block in the cubby on the back/ drivers side for future upgrades so power would be easy.  For the outlet, a simple RV type external plug-in shower would work.  No need for a mixer since you won't be drawing from a separate hot and cold supply.  The filler port would be the hardest part.  I think in my case I would use a generic boat filler (boats are what I do, so naturally that's what I think of first) and mount it into the top of my rear bumper.  With a stock bumper I don't know if you'd have space or want to cut into it, so you'd have to figure out where you want to put the filler so it can gravity feed to the tank.  You'll also need to run a vent line, but that's generally 1/2" and shouldn't be hard to find a space for.

 

On to the mufflers.  The 'turtle' - i.e. the big center resonator, is a low point and commonly bashed up.  The up-stream center muffler also tends to take a beating, as do the two pipes that pass on either side of the diff.  Some people have claimed they cut the exhaust off after the first center muffler (between it and the 'turtle') and put on turn-downs with no ill effects.  "you can't even hear a difference" they say.  Well, let's just say Your Mileage May Vary.  

 

I tried it last year.  First of all, you most definitely CAN hear a difference.  Not so much in the driveway or even on the trail, but on the highway it drones and is pretty annoying.  It wouldn't be so bad in a beater trail rig, but these are still nice trucks.  Maybe if you're not particularly attuned to your truck, or you always blast the stereo it wouldn't bother you.  But I got past the willingness to put up with crappy droning exhaust about 25 years ago.  

 

The bigger problem however was the heat.  The turn downs didn't do a good job of getting the hot exhaust gasses out from under the truck.  This led to me melting the plastic air intake line to my compressor where it passes over the diff (it is behind a heat shield but that wasn't enough).  That let to a suspension failure when the compressor couldn't draw in any air because it sucked the softened plastic pipe closed.  I replaced that pipe and wrapped it in heat shield tape but it still happened again.  This only occurred on 90*+ days when running very slow/idling on the trail, not at street speeds.  Makes sense when you stop and think about it.

 

I ended up putting my exhaust back on.  it's pretty bashed up, plus I've cut it apart and now have it clamped back together, so I'm about to swap it for another stock system I have waiting for me up at British Recyclers.  (actually hoped to pick it up today but Justin was closed for the holiday)   In short, I don't recommend cutting the exhaust like that despite what others say they've done.

 

I believe MagnaFlow offers a cat-back system for these trucks but haven't looked into it.  That may be a way to get rid of the turtle at least, but I'm betting they still route the pipes the same way past the diff since there really isn't much other room there.  And honestly I like the truck being quiet - loud doesn't suit this sort of vehicle in my opinion.

 

Thanks Don, this is good to know. If I would have researched more I may have cut them like you did, I am glad I didn't. I agree with the magnaflow, I don't want my disco sounding like a Ferrari.

 

The hot water idea sounds awesome in the spare well, maybe by the time I get around to it you will have already done it  ;) 


–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

 

2011 LR4 HSE
ARB front bumper with WARN XD9000 winch, IPF 900 off-road lights, Voyager ladder, Voyager roof rack, Voyager rock sliders with steps, 2.5 Lift Johnson Rods, 18" Compomotive Wheels, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx 275/65R18, Traxide dual battery kit with Optima Yellowtop D34, Tactical 4x4 rear bumper & tire swing, Frontrunner drawer system & fridge slide, National Luna 52 fridge etc...


#6
djoslin

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So tactical Rovers sells full undercarriage skid plates so that is an option.

For the spare if you check Expedition portal there are all kinds of use. The most common use to be the long range fuel tank. But I believe the company may have gone out of business. We did have one for sell pretty recently on here.

Also I've seen water tanks linked to the stock compressor for use to wash gear off or take showers.

What tire swing are you going with? I've been considering the front runner one but been using my available funds to build my D1 up lately.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

Thanks Jethro, I will check out the spare well thread on Expedition portal. More of just getting ideas at this point for that area out of curiosity.

 

I think I have decided on going with the tactical rover rear bumper and tire swing out. I have not ordered yet, but plan to in the next day or so. I WAS going to go with the voyager tire swing, (same company as my rack and rock sliders) that attaches to the stock rear bumper. But after thinking, I am going to eventually need/want a steel rear bumper and a tire swing so the tactical seems like the best choice.


  • Jethro likes this

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

 

2011 LR4 HSE
ARB front bumper with WARN XD9000 winch, IPF 900 off-road lights, Voyager ladder, Voyager roof rack, Voyager rock sliders with steps, 2.5 Lift Johnson Rods, 18" Compomotive Wheels, Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx 275/65R18, Traxide dual battery kit with Optima Yellowtop D34, Tactical 4x4 rear bumper & tire swing, Frontrunner drawer system & fridge slide, National Luna 52 fridge etc...


#7
DHappel

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So tactical Rovers sells full undercarriage skid plates so that is an option.

For the spare if you check Expedition portal there are all kinds of use. The most common use to be the long range fuel tank. But I believe the company may have gone out of business. We did have one for sell pretty recently on here.

Also I've seen water tanks linked to the stock compressor for use to wash gear off or take showers.

What tire swing are you going with? I've been considering the front runner one but been using my available funds to build my D1 up lately.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I have the Tactical skids; they don't protect the exhaust.  It would be possible but difficult to fully enclose the exhaust, and you can't reasonably cover the 2 low points where it goes under the diff/axles.  

 

I would also avoid trying to use the stock compressor to pressurize a water tank.  The stock compressors are high pressure/low volume; not what you need for this sort of application where you want high volume/low pressure. You could tee into the tank with a pressure regulator (15 psi or so would be enough) but I hesitate to work the stock compressor any more than it has to given the relatively high number of issues people have with suspension on these rigs already.  I'd rather just use a separate 12v pump for the pressure water.  They're cheap and easy to plumb.  

 

Using the spare well for an extended range tank is a great idea; Michal has one from Front Runner, and Bear just sold one.  The 20 gallon stock tank doesn't provide much range given how bad the mileage is on a mod'ed LR3/4.  There are some catches to using the Front Runner tank - first it's designed for a diesel Australian truck, so you have to make a few tweaks to get it to work with a US spec gas version.  Second, there could be some emissions testing issues though I don't think Michal has had any problems (not sure if he's had to go through a test since installing though).  And lastly, I don't think the part is in production any more, or at least it's not being imported so you'd need to source it in Australia or South Africa (?).  It's also a fairly pricey piece of kit and you should keep in mind that these trucks are already very heavy so carrying that much extra fuel does add up.  I've gotten by with a jerry can on the swing out for most of my trips, and for the longer times I've gone cheap and just put a 6 gallon outboard motor gas tank on the roof rack.  Hey....you use what you have, right?


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#8
Volkov

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I am throwing around the idea of making my own aluminum water tank to fit in that void similar to the long ranger in Aussie land



#9
DHappel

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I am throwing around the idea of making my own aluminum water tank to fit in that void similar to the long ranger in Aussie land

See my first post....


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock






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