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LR3 Transmission issue

- - - - - Transmission HDC Fault

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26 replies to this topic

#1
yarrover

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Hi Guys,

 

So finally some serious issue came up on my 2006 LR3 after all these years.

 

It was a great weekend in Yosemite with friends and this happened while coming back home.

 

I stopped at a signal and started normally then i noticed the rpm revs up and gear does not shift further. Then i moved it to command shift mode and the gears work fine to shift up and down. But it won't work in D or Dsport mode. I was a little worried that the truck will break down half the way to home form Yosemite, lots of imagination going on in the back of the mind what if it breaks, shall i call towing or a friend or..... Carefully using command shift i almost made it till Tracy and then suddenly HDC fault, brake light and suspension lowered lights came up on dash and then suspension lowered. My heart skips for a second and praying hard not to breakdown on the middle of the freeway.

Glad nothing happened i ended up driving it home with bumpy ride, thank god weekend didn't end up as bad as i feared.

 

As soon as i came home, I went thru lot of posts online and there are different versions of this issue.

 

-Some of them had to change battery and voila!!! all good

-Some had to change the brake light switch and back to normal

-Some had to change the wiring harness and all good

-Some suggested to change transmission filter and oil to fix the issue

 

So did this happen to anyone? Hopefully a simple fix or less expensive fix. Looking for your expert advice and where to start looking.

 

Thanks

Anudeep


Anudeep (YARRover)
2006 LR3 HSE (Buckingham Blue)
with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#2
DHappel

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My first thought was actually voltage/battery related.  Although I haven't experienced that problem myself when it's that broad-spectrum I tend to think voltage as that can cause all sorts or random stuff to happen.  I don't remember if you have a GAP tool, it you do plug it in, check and record the error codes, then clear them and see what voltage your alternator is putting out to the battery when running.  If you don't have a GAP tool, try just reading the battery voltage directly with a meter both as it sits now and with it started and report back to us.  Ideally you should see approx 12.4v just sitting there and 14.x running.  It's hard to put a specific number on the charging voltage as the 'smart' regulator in these trucks varies it based on all sorts of factors but you should see at least 13.9v running and preferably 14.1-14.4v

 

As for the brake light switch, I don't know if it could cause these problems or not.  It seems to get the blame for lots of stuff that I don't think it actually causes, but it's cheap and easy to replace so most people just do it.  I think I even have a spare in the truck 'just in case'.


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#3
NThyrring

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I have had similar problems when my primary battery was on it's last leg.
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Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#4
DiscoDavis

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when my alternator conked out I only had access to 3 or 4 gears and it revved super high before engaging them.

 

Ditto on it may be voltage. Otherwise if you've never had the tranny pan or fluid changed this may be a good time too.


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:lr:

2006 Discovery 3(Build Thread)

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#5
yarrover

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Thanks guys,

 

Hopefully its battery, I will test the voltage and errors with the Gap tool. Tranny fluid and filter are on my todo list for 150k service(now its 134K). Also my passenger side brake light is acting weird when head lights are turned on, so need to check that as well. 

 

If it's battery then what is the best battery to replace?

 

Thanks

Anudeep


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2006 LR3 HSE (Buckingham Blue)
with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#6
RedRover

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Erin's LR4 recently went through a weird battery issue where the battery would take a full charge from the battery charger but once you took the charger off, the voltage would drop rather quickly and you could hear clicking when turning over.

We got all sorts of transmission faults when that happened -- new battery has 'so far' cured the problems... we'll keep an eye on it.
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Jared (KJ6MQI)
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#7
DHappel

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Thanks guys,

 

Hopefully its battery, I will test the voltage and errors with the Gap tool. Tranny fluid and filter are on my todo list for 150k service(now its 134K). Also my passenger side brake light is acting weird when head lights are turned on, so need to check that as well. 

 

If it's battery then what is the best battery to replace?

 

Thanks

Anudeep

Not Interstate.  :)

 

People have had good results with the Deka Intimidator AGM batteries, though I had one fail in Bear's truck earlier this year.  I'm running a Northstar thin plate AGM myself.  But if you're not running a lot of accessories like a fridge I would just stick with a standard flooded battery.  I think the size is group 94R(?) for a stock LR3.

 

Much as it pains me to say it, I hear the Costco Kirkland batteries are OK and have a good warranty/price.  I don't know who builds them, but there are only a handful of battery makers so many of them are the same just with different brand labels.


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#8
GraemeWare

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Much as it pains me to say it, I hear the Costco Kirkland batteries are OK and have a good warranty/price.  I don't know who builds them, but there are only a handful of battery makers so many of them are the same just with different brand labels.

 

Don,

 

Costco no longer sell Kirkland (their own brand) with the mega-warranty.  They now sell Interstate, with a lesser warranty.  Both are made by Johnson Controls anyway ....

 

Reminds me that I have a 2.5 year old one that I have been forgetting to take in for warranty claim ...

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


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Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#9
El Solis

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I just replaced ours with the Deka and both the primary and secondary (optima yellow top) sit at a higher voltage at rest. We weren't having issues but I have heard about the batteries failing consistently at 50,000 miles on the OEM one and we were at 53,000 so before anything happened it got swapped.
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Chris KK6CQE

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#10
yarrover

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I just replaced ours with the Deka and both the primary and secondary (optima yellow top) sit at a higher voltage at rest. We weren't having issues but I have heard about the batteries failing consistently at 50,000 miles on the OEM one and we were at 53,000 so before anything happened it got swapped.

Hi Chris,

 

Where did you get the battery from. Is it same for LR3?

 

Thanks

Anudeep


Anudeep (YARRover)
2006 LR3 HSE (Buckingham Blue)
with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#11
El Solis

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I think it's the same. I ordered on line autobarn.com $219
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Chris KK6CQE

CT110 Himalayas Pre-Scout Truck
08 BMW 550i
2013 Discovery 4, Black Pack, NCLR sticker as only modification….for now
1963 Jaguar MK2 3.8 litre


#12
yarrover

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I currently have Interstate on mine.

 

Thinking to change the brake light switch and tail lights first as they are acting weird when headlights are on and see if that fixes the issue. If not then change the battery.


Anudeep (YARRover)
2006 LR3 HSE (Buckingham Blue)
with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#13
NThyrring

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I use an Interstate as my primary battery, and an Odyssey PC 1200 for my secondary battery.

The Odyssey is way more expensive at $200.

The only reason for the Odyssey, is that I couldn't find any others that would fit.

I installed both of them at the same time three years ago.

I just replaced both of them in the last week.

Attached Files


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Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#14
DHappel

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I like Odyssey batteries for the most part, but their big group 31 has some unique charging requirements that make it a poor choice for the Rovers.  I had one for a while in my LR3 (it was a DieHard Platinum marine but was actually a Odyssey 31M PC2150 with a different label) and couldn't properly charge it so I didn't get very good performance from it.  I replaced it with a Northstar group 31 thin plate pure lead AGM and have been happier with that.  Of note, Sears has stopped selling Odyssey (DieHard Platinum) batteries due to this issue.

 

BUT...

 

I don't recommend a battery like this for a typical daily driver.  Something like the Deka AGM intimidator in the standard size would be a better option and would drop straight in with no mods, not to mention it would be more affordable.

 

Some people have used the Interstate MT49-H8 with good results but I'm just not a big fan of Interstate and it seem for every positive story you read about the there's at least one negative story to balance it.   Another option might be the DieHard Gold AGM battery, though I haven't looked at it.

 

Honestly, if you're not running heavy accessory loads any good group 49 battery SHOULD be OK.  You don't have to look at the more elaborate stuff like Nills or I have for a daily driver.


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#15
NThyrring

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Don, you are right.

I have had nothing but problems charging the Odyssey batteries.

I made the mistake of using one for my primary battery a few years ago.

At first I thought that it was my National Luna controller.
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Thank you,

Nils

2007 LR3
2013 Range Rover Sport

#16
yarrover

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I still dint get time to seriously look in to the issue or work on it. I ordered the Brake light Switch and Tail lights from LR Redwood city. Waiting for the parts.

 

Yesterday since i had no 2nd car available i had to take the LR3 out and i observed a strange/funny behavior that when i was driving in auto mode(D) it went fine, later in the evening when i turned the head lights on then again the transmission got stuck in 1st gear and won't shift to the next gear in D mode. Then something weird i thought and turned of the lights and wow the transmission works fine :). Lights on then again won't shift, ligths of it shifts...lights on....lights off....

 

It was very weird but was funny to play with it, finally experienced the LR computer/electrical weirdness :). Any idea what could be the reason for this weird behavior?

 

Battery?

Wiring Harness?

Faulty fuse?

Brake Lights? Will rule out once i receive the parts.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks


Anudeep (YARRover)
2006 LR3 HSE (Buckingham Blue)
with HD Package, BFG KO2's !!


#17
DHappel

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Again, my vote is battery.

 

It sounds like your alternator is providing power but not keeping up with load when you have a heavy demand like the lights so the voltage in the system is dropping and causing weird things to happen.

 

Sunday when I was driving home from OktRoverFest my alternator partially died so it was only putting out a little power; I was mostly running on my battery which was slowly dropping.  By the time I got home it was down to 11v (I think...I didn't write it down so I don't remember specifically)  and the transmission was beginning to upshift strangely and hold gears too long.  That sounds a lot like what you were describing earlier.

 

When you get a chance plug your GAP tool into the dash and turn the key on but don't start the truck.  You should see the current battery voltage showing in the display on the dash.  Let us know what that is - it should be about 12.4-12.6 depending on state of charge.  Then start the truck and check the voltage again.  It should be higher, more like 14v.  Now turn on some heavy loads like headlights, heated seats, etc and check the voltage again.  It should still be up around 14v.

 

If the initial check shows less than 12v, you know the battery is on it's way out.  at 11.5v a battery is pretty much dead.  By 11v you won't be able to start the truck most likely.  The other checks will help indicate the condition of the alternator, though with the LR3's crazy computer controled regulator you can never be 100% sure of what output it should be generating.


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#18
lithium1330

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What does your multimeter say for the battery at rest and when engine is running? Also, prob worth checking the alternator when you're at it.
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Chris

#19
JFuller

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If you don't have a multi meter drive over to any auto parts store.  They will test your battery for free. 



#20
GraemeWare

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If you don't have a multi meter drive over to any auto parts store.  They will test your battery for free. 

 

Jason,

 

Or in Anudeep's case, clip the "free Harbor Freight multimeter - value $4.99" coupon from one of the many sources (even the flier in the store) and walk about 150 feet outside your Restaurant (shameless plug for the fact that his pace is in the same mall as HF in Frement, so you can go cheap tool shopping and get lunch at the same time), buy something and get a free multimeter with it.

 

Anudeep,

 

Will try to come in on Thursday or Friday lunchtime to see you (and eat, of course).

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


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Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...






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