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P38 Range Rover Rear Bumper

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14 replies to this topic

#1
AdvRovr

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I'm looking for a rear bumper for the P38 with swing-outs and such. I really like the RockRover/Alan Bates design, but I talked to him a bit and it would interfere with the rear ladder, and worst of all, it requires removal of the trailer hitch. 

 

So, does anyone know of a good-looking bumper for the P38 that retains the factory trailer hitch and can accomodate a swing-out? Or know how to build one? 


Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#2
GraemeWare

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Chad,

 

Bearmach have one that you could add a swing-away to.  I have no idea on fitment, thickness, or anything though.

 

It would come in around $600 landed.

 

Graeme

 

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Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#3
AdvRovr

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I don't suppose you have access to pictures of it mounted? 

 

I'd love to find something that is essentially ready to go. If I have to go out to a fab shop for the swingout, I wonder if I shouldn't just start there to begin with. It also makes me wonder if the bumper is designed to be able to support the load. 


Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#4
DHappel

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For $600 I doubt you can have one built.  That sounds like a really good price.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#5
AdvRovr

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For $600 I doubt you can have one built.  That sounds like a really good price.

It is, don't get me wrong. But if for any reason the bumper has to be modified to handle the swing-outs, it could backfire grandly. If I could see some better pics, or it mounted, or anyone else adding swing outs to it - that would help me. I'm also concerned that it looks like there's a built-in trailer hitch and I don't want to replace the factory one I have now. 


Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#6
Jethro

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It is, don't get me wrong. But if for any reason the bumper has to be modified to handle the swing-outs, it could backfire grandly. If I could see some better pics, or it mounted, or anyone else adding swing outs to it - that would help me. I'm also concerned that it looks like there's a built-in trailer hitch and I don't want to replace the factory one I have now.

Have you talked with Ted? His looks great and works well.

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#7
GraemeWare

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I don't suppose you have access to pictures of it mounted? 

 

I'd love to find something that is essentially ready to go. If I have to go out to a fab shop for the swingout, I wonder if I shouldn't just start there to begin with. It also makes me wonder if the bumper is designed to be able to support the load. 

 

Chad,

 

I will request more pics, but they normally don't have any available.  The receiver would infer that it is pretty solid, but there could be differences between the UK and US chassis too (as there are in the RRC and D1), thus my comment about fitment. 

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#8
Teds

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I have the rockrover bumper with a custom swinging built by Rob's minions. Later modified by us to include gas/water cans and lowered to allow the rear tailgate to open without hitting the tire. My biggest gripe is losing the tow hitch, but I may try and put an original hitch on and cutting the rear skid plate to allow access. That being said, I don't tow with my p38 but would like the option.

I bought the ruffstuff large swing out joint and then it was welded to the swing out arm we made. Fairly robust.

If bearmach makes a metal rear bumper, then you can have a swing out arm made and use the ruffstuff pivot. Ruffstuff is located in Loomis by us and makes some crazy serious rock crawlers. CaliFab hereally is Sac could do the work. We can call him up, he was at the pub with us in September.
2001 Range Rover SE - SD rack, Warn XD9000CE, front axle guard, steering guard, sliders, ladder, coils, 33in KM2s
2006 LR3 SE - ARB bumper with Superwinch EP9, roof rack, Sasquatch Rods

#9
JFuller

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You're not going to beat $600. Why the hesitation to change the tor receiver? Looks like a bumper mounter one would only help your clearance on the trail. I made my own for front and back with the help of a patient friend. The fab time alone would have cost us well north of $1000 if we paid someone to do it. Plus materials. Even if the bearmach isn't designed to handle a swing out adding some reinforcement would be way easier then a full build. You can also try pedram if he's still in the business.

#10
AdvRovr

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I have the rockrover bumper with a custom swinging built by Rob's minions. Later modified by us to include gas/water cans and lowered to allow the rear tailgate to open without hitting the tire. My biggest gripe is losing the tow hitch, but I may try and put an original hitch on and cutting the rear skid plate to allow access. That being said, I don't tow with my p38 but would like the option.

I bought the ruffstuff large swing out joint and then it was welded to the swing out arm we made. Fairly robust.

If bearmach makes a metal rear bumper, then you can have a swing out arm made and use the ruffstuff pivot. Ruffstuff is located in Loomis by us and makes some crazy serious rock crawlers. CaliFab hereally is Sac could do the work. We can call him up, he was at the pub with us in September.

Hm, sounds like a possible option. Might do that based on the Bearmach one, hoping Graeme can provide some more info on it. I'd love to take some more time to look at your setup in detail - if there is some way to keep the factory tow hitch I'd be all over it.

 

Have also been talking to Dan about just welding up an extension to the side of the frame to support a very basic tire carrier that I already have.

 

You're not going to beat $600. Why the hesitation to change the tor receiver? Looks like a bumper mounter one would only help your clearance on the trail. I made my own for front and back with the help of a patient friend. The fab time alone would have cost us well north of $1000 if we paid someone to do it. Plus materials. Even if the bearmach isn't designed to handle a swing out adding some reinforcement would be way easier then a full build. You can also try pedram if he's still in the business.

Because I still use the Rover to tow heavy loads occasionally. The Rockrover/Alan Bates design only supports Class 2 loads, and I imagine the Bearmach one would be the same. If one of them could be modified to fit around the factory tow hitch that would be ideal.


Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

FOR SALE: Built 1997 Range Rover 4.0 // 2006 BMW 330i 6MT 


#11
JFuller

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Yea that's likely due to the fact that they are designed to bolt on using mostly factory holes. You could add some welded reinforcement and not worry about towing your boat and such.

#12
DHappel

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Yea that's likely due to the fact that they are designed to bolt on using mostly factory holes. You could add some welded reinforcement and not worry about towing your boat and such.

I agree.  I'm willing to bet we can make it work.  It's not like that's a 10,000 lb boat either.  I'm going to guess about 4k.


Don
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'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#13
Teds

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The factory hitch is bolted to a crossmember that between the frame rails and is pretty stout but also is bolted farther under the chassis. Hence, the aftermarket bumpers give a better departure angle and the crossmember is removed. I also thought about just welding the bumper to the frame for stability and strength.  Actually bashed it pretty good at Signal Peak the other month. 


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2006 LR3 SE - ARB bumper with Superwinch EP9, roof rack, Sasquatch Rods

#14
erinw.rrc

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My Kaymar is welded to the frame and a good idea in my opinion. None of the bolt on bumpers are very fit friendly in my experience. However, with the Kaymar, I still have access to my factory hitch.


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#15
DHappel

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Yeah, but the LR3/4 factory hitch is a whole different (and crappy, IMO) thing.

 

Chad, if you buy a bolt-on bumper with a hitch we can certainly reinforce it to handle the boat.  It just won't be bolt-on anymore.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock





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