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Lr3/rrs battery light

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18 replies to this topic

#1
alpaca

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Was at Yosemite this weekend - left fridge plugged into rear cigarette lighter socket while going on 2-3 hr hike. When I came back - truck started - but red battery light was on. I ran for 30 mins and light went off by itself. Possible I just drained battery down ? (I'm not sure if socket is live when ignition is off) or should I worry about alternator starting to act up at 90k miles ?

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
2006 RRS
2002 911

2003 E46
2008 C300

2015 Cherokee


#2
ROVRMAN2

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If you have no aux battery, I think its your main battery draining. I had my Engel fridge hooked up to my main (cause I wired it wrong) instead of my aux and it drained main completely. Next trip I made sure all my accessories were hooked to my aux.


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#3
DHappel

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I'd have to check but I don't think that socket is hot unless the ignition is on.  Even if it is, you should have no problem running a fridge for a few hours, particularly given it wouldn't have been all that hot up there this weekend.  I run an over-size battery in my rig but have no problems running a fridge overnight from it.  Assuming the battery was charged when you started a few hours from a fridge should present no worries.  

 

It's possible the battery was weak and the fridge pulled it a bit down but then I wouldn't have expected the car to start.

 

It's also quite possible the alternator isn't fully happy.  They are a semi-common failure point on the 4.4 engine.  Luckily they are fairly easy to change.

 

The only real way to know is put a meter on it and do some testing.  However it's a bit more complicated than the older rigs since the regulator is controlled by the computers so it doesn't just put out a fixed voltage.  Still, you should see close to 14v when running.

 

The battery can be load tested to give an idea of it's condition.  

 

If I were betting, I'd go with battery first then alternator.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#4
alpaca

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Yep - I confirmed socket is not hot when ignition is off - but I found my cell phone charging cable is shorting out (damaged) - once that was unplugged I didn't see the battery light again ... I drove all the way home from Yosemite with no issues. Btw - going down old priest grade heated up the brakes very nicely - and now the squeak from my powerstop pads is gone :)

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2002 911

2003 E46
2008 C300

2015 Cherokee


#5
DHappel

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Ah - that could cause a problem though I'm a bit surprised it didn't blow the fuse on the outlet.  I have a cheapo USB charger plug that's failed as well ... they're not the most robust things.

 

And yeah, Old Priest Grade can smoke some brakes!


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#6
alpaca

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Battery light popped on today for less then 30 secs ... I'm going to test battery .. but if it's not that, may do a preventative replace of the alternator. Don't want to be stranded on the trail. Atlantic British video shows replacement from underneath only - using a special thin tool to release belt tension. For those who have done this on LR3/RRS - is special tool needed for that - or will breaker bar with 15mm socket work ? Does anyone have such a tool - or is there another easy way to release the belt ? 

 

Thanks - Martin 


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2015 Cherokee


#7
alpaca

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Battery measured at 12.4V before starting (seems a little low - esp since I drove for 30 mins last night and it should be fully charged) ? After starting - voltage read 14.3V - but then on drive to work - light still keeps cutting in and out. Battery is 2011 or 12 .. so I think I will start with changing that first ... and then consider alternator next .. 


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2015 Cherokee


#8
DHappel

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The thing is, the late model Rovers have 'smart' regulators controlled on the fly by the computers so you never really know what voltage you should be seeing at any given time.  They vary it based on all sorts of parameters and to do things like help with emissions testing (hello VW....).  Gone are the simple days of looking at the voltage and saying 'good' or 'bad'.

 

12.4v after sitting overnight isn't bad at all so I wouldn't suspect the battery but if it's from '11 it wouldn't hurt to change it as PM anyway.  30 minutes of driving may or may not fully charge a battery depending on what state it was in prior and what the regulator was doing.  

 

As for the fan clutch tools - why yes, I know somebody who has those.  I hear he's a really great guy.   ;)

You need 2 tools - one is a big wrench and the other is a spanner that holds the pulley from turning while you apply muscle to said wrench.  I've got both if you want to borrow them; we just have to get together sometime.


Edited by DHappel, 06 June 2017 - 04:58 PM.

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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#9
alpaca

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Going to try new New Bosch battery tomorrow. The tool I was referring to is not fan clutch wrench- the Atlantic British DIY shows replacement from underneath without removing fan or anything up top ...(I may do that anyway to do the belts and pulleys while I am in there) ... I guess it's called a serpentine belt tool - found it at harbor freight for $16. I will get them to load test old battery anyway to see how good it was ....

But agree - intermittent light is more likely regulator or diode issue ...

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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2003 E46
2008 C300

2015 Cherokee


#10
alpaca

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Well - new battery is in. But light is still on. Battery reads 12.6V now at rest - and holds 12.5V after high beams are on for 3+ minutes. (old battery would rapidly drop below 12V - but that could be because it wasn't receiving sufficient charge. With car at idle - alternator output (measured at battery) is approx 13.4-13.5V - maybe that is normal for fully charged battery ? So perhaps this is just issue with warning light ? I think I'll drive for a couple more days to see what happens (with my AAA card handy) before ordering new alternator (Denso reman is only $136 + core at rock auto) - well maybe I should just replace it anyway as preventative job. I just ordered all the drive belts and pulleys - so should be busy on Sunday ............


[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
2006 RRS
2002 911

2003 E46
2008 C300

2015 Cherokee


#11
AlysonH

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Is there a gap tool or some other code reader for the RRS?

#12
DHappel

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Yes, the GAP tool reads all late-model Rovers and his RRS is mechanically the same as an LR3 anyway.

 

But it won't show a code from his description.  

 

One thing you could do is graph the alternator output over time and look for anomalies.  But I don't know that I can say what 'normal' is given the many variables that determine the regulator output on these rigs.

 

Frankly it's probably worth just changing the alternator on the hassle v. dollar scale.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#13
alpaca

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Yeah - I don't think there would be any code. Drive to work today - past a broken p38 on the freeway ! But no light ! But I still think my rig is telling me to change the alternator ....

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#14
RON CT110

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Hey Martin, I am working on an alternator issue.  Alternator output should be 14.2V.  And when you put a load on it e.g. headlights, AC, the system should maintain 14V and if you see the voltage starts to drop, you have a week alternator. 

 

Are you far from CTMotorwerks in Walnut Creek? 


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#15
drafdog

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I had the intermittent battery light in my '05 LR3 a couple of weeks ago.  At low revs it would illuminate and above 3k rpm it would go away.  Over time it took higher and higher revs for it to go away.  Finally took it in and just as I thought the alternator was on its way out.   Could not  really complain since it lasted 135000 miles and 12 years!


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#16
alpaca

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Yep - wish I was closer to Colin .... think I'm just going to bite the bullet and just replace the damm think - for $130 it's a cheap DIY and looks fairly easy. Going to do belts and pulleys while I'm in there as well ... one less thing to break on the trail ...

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2006 RRS
2002 911

2003 E46
2008 C300

2015 Cherokee


#17
DiscoDavis

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I gave Ron my old super special fan clutch tools, the Assenmacher ones. Miles easier than the standard autozone 4 bolt types which are horrible. 

 

They will still sell the wrenches directly I believe. 


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#18
alpaca

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I think oreilly loans out the tools - but just did the pulleys on my BMW with 32mm thin bike wrench and crow bar to hold the fan pulley as you break the nut loose - so I'm going to try that first - hopefully it is as easy as it was on the BMW ....

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2015 Cherokee


#19
alpaca

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Well not enough leverage on the fan bolt with my bike spanner - but oreilly loans a kit - which got the job done ... getting alternator in/out is a bit fiddly with the connectors - but possible from underneath without a lift. I replaced drive belts and all pulleys too from the top - while I was in there - that was pretty easy as well.

Edited by alpaca, 11 June 2017 - 06:47 PM.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
2006 RRS
2002 911

2003 E46
2008 C300

2015 Cherokee





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