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LR4 Dual Battery System

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#1
AA Journey

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Hi,

 

I am looking to add another battery to the LR4.  Has anyone done this upgrade already and what kind of isolator have you used or recommend.   I am considering the Luna management system but wondering what other people have used and why.

 

This is the one I am considering. 

 

https://www.frontrun...y-isolator.html

 

 

This is another option but is more expensive and I don't seem to find a US distributor.

http://www.traxide.c...rover-dbs-kits/

 

 

Thanks

 

AA


Antonio


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#2
DHappel

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I believe Michal is running the traxide (?)  one in his LR4.

 

I don't have a preference for one brand over another.  You can build your own for a lot less than any of the pre-made kits, but they often include extra bells and whistles.  DIY you have less than $100 in parts (not including a battery).  I don't run dual batteries on my trucks since I don't stay base-camped in one place long enough to need them even with a fridge.  I have a suspicion that a lot of people put them in and don't actually need them, but they certainly don't hurt anything.  At least as long as they're installed correctly... I seem to recall spending some time trying to figure out some wiring issues on Michal's installation in the middle of the Mendocino Forest last year - I don't recommend his installer  :) 

 

Basically it comes down to how elaborate you want to get.  The first one is fairly basic; it's basically what I would build if I were doing one from scratch.  It has some extra options like a battery monitor as well but isn't vehicle specific.  The second one is made specifically for the LR3 and has all the wiring cut to length already as well as a factory battery tray, terminals, etc.  It's pretty much plug and play and has more features but at a higher price.  One worry - I don't know where you mount the 2nd battery in an LR4 as compared to an LR3, so it may or may not bolt straight in.

 

If you wanted to build your own, you just need to figure out a battery mounting location then we can wire in a simple hi-current continuous duty solenoid.  They are generic; nothing special about them.  Probably $35-45 from Amazon.  Then make up some battery cables and you're good to go.


Don
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#3
AdvRovr

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Watching this. I've been considering this as well for the RRS. 

 

Related question that might also be useful for others watching this: do you need the same size/type of battery for the aux batt? Personally, I have a standard, brand-new Interstate MTP-49/H8 in the RRS. I was thinking about going with a marine deep-cycle/starting battery in a smaller size to fit in the factory position on the other side of the engine bay. Deep cycle to handle electrical loads, and smaller size just for the fit. Both would be wet-cell lead acid.  Would this cause trouble paired with the larger and standard-type main battery?


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#4
DHappel

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Looking further down, I see they have an LR4 version as well.  Of course being Aussie everything will be reversed but I suspect it will still mount up.


Don
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#5
DHappel

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Watching this. I've been considering this as well for the RRS. 

 

Related question that might also be useful for others watching this: do you need the same size/type of battery for the aux batt? Personally, I have a standard, brand-new Interstate MTP-49/H8 in the RRS. I was thinking about going with a marine deep-cycle/starting battery in a smaller size to fit in the factory position on the other side of the engine bay. Deep cycle to handle electrical loads, and smaller size just for the fit. Both would be wet-cell lead acid.  Would this cause trouble paired with the larger and standard-type main battery?

The short answer is no, you'll be OK.

 

You are correct that it would be ideal to have matching batteries for both house and starting if you're using a basic solenoid type isolation system like these.  However that means not having the best battery type for each job.  I believe you would get better over-all performance from a specific deep cycle house and cranking-type starting battery.  They would both need to be the same architecture - ie both AGM or both flooded or both Gel.

 

If you want to get the absolute most out of a house battery you could use a programmable DC:DC charger.   That way you never actually connect the batteries together so you can use anything you want.  A DC:DC charger basically reads the voltage on the main starting battery and when it's over a specified point (say 13v) it then charges the house battery at a pre-set voltage/current that you choose.  So if you have an AGM house battery that wants a higher charge voltage no problem...it's literally a programmable battery charger that instead of being plugged into a wall gets it's power from the starting battery.

 

The down-side of this set-up is there's no battery sharing for things like self jump-starting or winching.  However you can add a switchable high-current solenoid for that.  The other thing to consider is if you want to add solar charging.  You would need to design your charger system for 2 separate batteries if you wanted to charge both batteries from solar.  There are various ways of skinning this cat; it just depends on what you want to achieve.


Edited by DHappel, 31 July 2017 - 05:02 PM.

Don
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#6
El Solis

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I run the traxide in the LR4, no issues. Have to move the TCM which is easy to fit a second battery. Took a few hours to install myself and no, I didn't install Michal's. I put an Optima Yellow Top in.

Edited by El Solis, 31 July 2017 - 05:16 PM.

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#7
DHappel

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I run the traxide in the LR4, no issues. Have to move the TCM which is easy to fit a second battery. Took a few hours to install myself and no, I didn't install Michal's. I put an Optima Yellow Top in.

No, but you got to spend time trying to fix it....  :)


Don
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#8
AA Journey

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Okay, thank you all for your feedback.  I mainly need the dual battery to run my fridge and some lights during the night.  I guess this setup is about preference and it does not need to be an specific set up. 

 

AA


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#9
lithium1330

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Speaking of batteries, I finally plunked down some money for a Duracell Platinum AGM group 31 with dual terminals.
RC is rated at 200min; enough to run a fridge (6amp draw when compressor is on) a couple, three days. 30mos warranty.
It's made by East Penn. And I think they have pretty good reputation for batts.
This is about 1/2 price of Odyssey group 31, but it's got as many good reviews.

https://www.batterie...m/sli31dtmagmdc

Btw, Sams Club has a battery just like this, but with 18mos warranty for $180.
Chris

#10
DHappel

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I do not recomend the Odyssy group 31 battery.  If you review the factory's published charging requirements you'll find most standard alternators don't do a very good job at getting it 100% full.  I ran one for a while in the LR3 but routinely only got about 80% charge regardless of the amount of driving.  I eventually switched to a Northstar and have liked it better.

 

With any big AGM, I recommend periodically hooking up a smart charger to them to be sure you've fully topped it off.  I use a Noco Genius 26000 but others will work.

 

(btw, even that big 'ol charger wasn't recommended by Odyssy for their gp 31 - it's a bit of an oddball)


Don
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#11
GraemeWare

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It's made by East Penn. And I think they have pretty good reputation for batts.
This is about 1/2 price of Odyssey group 31, but it's got as many good reviews.

https://www.batterie...m/sli31dtmagmdc
 

 

Five of those is what I paid for my truck .... I go for the cheapest sh.. battery because none of them last when you knock them around on the trails, and my truck has an alternator that charges the battery as I drive .....

 

With multiple vehicle I seem to be buying a battery a month, either for a car or a motorcycle.

 

Graeme


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#12
AdvRovr

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That's a huge part of why I'm trying to reduce my fleet. Getting sick of something needing attention every time I turn around.

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#13
GraemeWare

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That's a huge part of why I'm trying to reduce my fleet. Getting sick of something needing attention every time I turn around.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

Chad,

 

I know the feeling, and I'm just about to buy one with an even bigger battery .... at least I won't have to worry about engine oil changes, exhausts, spark plugs, or gasoline.  Planning on reducing here too .... most of the Rovers are staying though.

 

Graeme


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Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#14
AdvRovr

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Just hope you don't have to buy a new battery for it... You could buy an awful lot of spark plugs for that cost.

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