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Lifted 99 D1 prioritized to do list

- - - - - discovery lifted terrafirma spacers

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10 replies to this topic

#1
seldomwright

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So I've fitted my D1 with heavy duty TF springs and 1 inches spacers front and rear.  Tires are 32".  Looks awesome.  Definitely has some vibrations at low speeds (10-15 mph).  If I can't live with the vibes I might take out the front spacers.

 

Questions.

 

What would be the prioritized list of to do's next?  

 

I have Goodrich 4" extended brake lines to be fitted asap.  And the shocks are older OME Nitro.Chargers, long travel I believe.

 

Extended front prop shaft? -I assume this is a must...

Adjustable/extended panhard bar?  -How do I tell if I need this?

Sway bar spacers or extended say bar links?  -Do these just aid in added articulation?

Watts links?  -Don't even know what these are exactly...

 

Anyone have experience with this path? 

 

Thanks as always! 

 

Here's a pic of the truck so far

https://www.dropbox..../disco.jpg?dl=0


Edited by seldomwright, 28 August 2017 - 08:46 AM.

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#2
GraemeWare

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So I've fitted my D1 with heavy duty TF springs and 1 inches spacers front and rear.  Tires are 32".  Looks awesome.  Definitely has some vibrations at low speeds (20-25 mph).  If I can't live with the vibes I might take out the front spacers.

 

Questions.

 

What would be the prioritized list of to do's next?  

 

I have Goodrich 4" extended brake lines to be fitted asap.  And the shocks are older OME Nitro.Chargers, long travel I believe.

 

Extended front prop shaft? -I assume this is a must...

Adjustable/extended panhard bar?  -How do I tell if I need this?

Sway bar spacers or extended say bar links?  -Do these just aid in added articulation?

Watts links?  -Don't even know what these are exactly...

 

 

Solve the vibration first.  Unlikely to be anything directly to do with the lift, that has just exacerbated the problem.

 

You don't need an extended propshaft.  Actually, you'd need a shorter one (due to the geometry) but you've hardy changed the length.

 

Neither sway bar extension or panhard rod are necessary at that lift, but panhard would be my choice if you change either.

 

You don't have a Watt's linkage.  Those were used on D2s, and you have a D1.

 

Graeme


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Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#3
lutz

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Extended front prop shaft? go with a dual cardon front shaft
Adjustable/extended panhard bar?  -How do I tell if I need this? Is the front off center? 
Sway bar spacers or extended say bar links?  -Do these just aid in added articulation? Id remove rear sway and put quick disconnects on front
Watts links?  -Don't even know what these are exactly... you don't have a watts. D1 have a 3 link .they make a rear a arm extension to fix pinon angle for truck 3in lift

KK6QGU
04 Discovery 2-Trail truck- RTE 3in with fox 2.0 shocks, $g rear cones ,$G front bumper with Warn XD9000i custom rear,ARB's air lockers F&R with Ashcroft 4.12 w/reverse cut front , Ashcroft HD axles/CV's, RTE diff guards F&R , Max Yedor HD tie rod and track rod,custom watts, 255/85-16 MAXXIS MT-762 BIGHORN

99 Discovery 2 -Parts truck

2008 lr3

http://www.pacificadventuretours.com/


#4
seldomwright

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Thanks for the quick info guys!  The front is indeed off center by about an inch... I hadn't noticed till now.  Adjustable panhard bar on the way.  


Edited by seldomwright, 28 August 2017 - 08:49 AM.

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#5
seldomwright

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So, I've solved the vibration problem with a Tom Woods double cardan prop shaft.  Super happy with that.  Adjustable panhard bar worked for getting the axle back in line.  I fashioned some brackets to lower the front sway bar 2.5 inches, as it was about an inch from the prop shaft.  Changed the tie rods with the Terra Firma ones as well.

 

So now my steering wheel is totally cockeyed.  Alignment issue?  Front steering rod simply too long or too short?

 

It was already a bit weird but swapping out the steering components made it way worse.  Seems to drive fine, and tracks straight as far as I can tell.  

 

Brake lines next.


Edited by seldomwright, 11 September 2017 - 04:49 PM.

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#6
GraemeWare

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Measure and post the length of the drag link (in mm). Just the bar, not including TREs.

Regards,

Graeme

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#7
JFuller

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Here is my $0.02.  

 

The adjustable panhard bar was a good idea and well done.  When you installed it, and adjusted it to bring your axle back to center you likely caused the steering wheel to be off because you didn't adjust the drag link.  The drag link and panhard bar sit parallel with each other to eliminate bump steer while you are driving at speed.  If you look at you alxe both bars are similar in length and connection location.  It is designed this way so that when you axle moves up or down while driving, the frame and steering components move in the same relative direction and don't cause the wheels to steer right or left and make driving exciting.  To get your steering wheel back in line you need to adjust the drag link the same length and direction you adjusted you panhard bar.  

 

As far as your double cardan front shaft goes.  They are a good option and extremely useful when set up correctly.  A double cardan shaft and a standard 2 u-joint shaft require different axle angles.  For a standard 2 u-joint shaft the output pinion on the transfer case and the input pinion on the axle should be parallel, meaning that the angle at each u-joint is the same.  That way as the u-joints travel through their elliptical paths they offset eachother and don't cause a vibration or excessive stress/wear.  On the other hand when using a double cardan joint the double cardan joint will be at the transfer case and the single u-joint will be at the axle end.  The axle input pinion should be directly in line with the drive shaft and all the "bending" of the drive shaft should be done, during normal driving, by the double cardan joint.  If yours is set this way great, if not, I would recommend that you adjust the angle of your front axle so that it is in line or know that you will be changing your front u-joints more frequently.

 

Concerning lowering your sway bar.  my only thought on that is that if you intend to do some rock crawling type off roading to be careful with the amount of parts that are hanging down low ready to be caught by rock and damaged.  

 

Good luck with your build, hope to see you on the trail.  


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#8
seldomwright

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J Fuller, Thanks, that was a perfectly detailed description of what's going on there.  

 

I did not adjust the drag link ofter adjusting the panhard rod.  After staring at it for a sec I totally get it now.  The drag link needs to be extended a tad to get the steering wheel back to zero.   Will do so.

 

New drive shaft does appear to be set up properly with the final drive/diff pointing/angled up towards the transfer case.

 

Graeme the TF drag link is 844.6 mm minus the adjustable tie rod ends and nuts.  -33.25 inches if my math is wrong. 

 

Thanks as always guys for the info and help.  

 

I'll get some pics up soon. 


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#9
GraemeWare

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Graeme the TF drag link is 844.6 mm minus the adjustable tie rod ends and nuts.  -33.25 inches if my math is wrong. 

 

 

My initial though was that you had a RRC/Defender drag link (typically 740mm rather than 830mm) as they have the goose-neck ball joint rather than a TRE at the Pittman arm end, but at 845mm that is correct (since most have half nuts, not full nuts like the Gwyn Lewis bars that we sell).

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


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Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...


#10
DHappel

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So you're saying you're fully nuts then?


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#11
GraemeWare

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So you're saying you're fully nuts then?

 

Guilty as charged ....

 

Graeme


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Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible
other assorted British pot metal ...






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