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Air Suspension and Fuses

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33 replies to this topic

#21
DHappel

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I've been using parts of it as 'service' parts.  Remember me telling you about replacing the plastic push-on unions with metal ones?  Guess where they came from....

 

It was one of the first things I bought for the truck, right after a GAP tool and tires.  Yet I've since decided I can live without it.  


Don
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#22
AdvRovr

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So that's where that came from...


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#23
aebrownleeiv

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...There was also a thread or a few posts on Expo or Disco3uk about some people adding switches to the relay for the air compressor IE forcing it to turn on and raise the car. In at least one case someone was able to drill a hole in a spare relay and use a pencil to force it on. Some added schrader valves to the struts to manually fill each bag from an external compressor. 

 

I remember that thread, and I really wish I could find it again. Was a great write up, and basically was IMHO the best way to "trail proof" your air suspension system. Only thing that could take you down at that point was a blown bag. 



#24
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I remember that thread, and I really wish I could find it again. Was a great write up, and basically was IMHO the best way to "trail proof" your air suspension system. Only thing that could take you down at that point was a blown bag. 

It's really not needed if you have a GAP iiD tool already.  The switches wouldn't do anything the iiD doesn't already do plus much more, like the ability to manually inflate each corner separately.   There's nothing wrong with having both, or installing the switches if you don't have an iiD tool to provide a work-around, but as noted switches (or pulling fuses) is really a half-measure.  That only prevents the truck from dropping.  If you've experienced a fault you still have to have a way to clear it and get the truck back up to the height you want, then you pull the fuses or flip the switches to prevent it from lowering.  You'll need something like the iiD to do those first two things, so why not just go ahead while you're using it and set it to 'Build Mode' - thus disabling the suspension the same as flipping the switches or pulling fuses.  They'll both get the same result, it just seems like work you don't need to do.

 

There may be one situation I can think of where the switches could come in handy, but it's a long shot.  This supposes you've run the switches to the dash or somewhere you can get to them easily while driving.  If you're driving and get a red suspension warning light that starts to drop the truck to the bumpstops you could quickly flip the switches before it lowers all the way.  Then, if somehow that red warning was coupled with a failed compressor such that you couldn't re-inflate using the GAP tool fast action on the switches would have kept you inflated when the iiD would not.  But that requires a very particular set of circumstances and quick reaction on your part.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#25
aebrownleeiv

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It's really not needed if you have a GAP iiD tool already.  The switches wouldn't do anything the iiD doesn't already do plus much more, like the ability to manually inflate each corner separately.   There's nothing wrong with having both, or installing the switches if you don't have an iiD tool to provide a work-around, but as noted switches (or pulling fuses) is really a half-measure.  That only prevents the truck from dropping.  If you've experienced a fault you still have to have a way to clear it and get the truck back up to the height you want, then you pull the fuses or flip the switches to prevent it from lowering.  You'll need something like the iiD to do those first two things, so why not just go ahead while you're using it and set it to 'Build Mode' - thus disabling the suspension the same as flipping the switches or pulling fuses.  They'll both get the same result, it just seems like work you don't need to do.

 

There may be one situation I can think of where the switches could come in handy, but it's a long shot.  This supposes you've run the switches to the dash or somewhere you can get to them easily while driving.  If you're driving and get a red suspension warning light that starts to drop the truck to the bumpstops you could quickly flip the switches before it lowers all the way.  Then, if somehow that red warning was coupled with a failed compressor such that you couldn't re-inflate using the GAP tool fast action on the switches would have kept you inflated when the iiD would not.  But that requires a very particular set of circumstances and quick reaction on your part.

It was less about the electrical (because as you said, the IID tool will handle that side of things) and more about the valves allowing a physical closure of each bag, and a valve to manually inflate them with another air source. 

So say a line blew, valve block died, etc. 



#26
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Just came across this thread, will show you which fuses and procedure at the annual. Not bringing Maximus though (LR3) but Rangie instead. It involves two Hi Lifts and the truck being at its bump stops.


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Enrique
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#27
DHappel

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Just came across this thread, will show you which fuses and procedure at the annual. Not bringing Maximus though (LR3) but Rangie instead. It involves two Hi Lifts and the truck being at its bump stops.

Enrique - haven't heard from you in a while! 

 

This is the Rubicon-Ready-Classic (RRC) right?  You gonna join us in Tank Traps?  

 

The LR3 isn't currently down is it?  I think you coil-swapped it, yes?


Don
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'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#28
DiscoChef

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Enrique - haven't heard from you in a while! 

 

This is the Rubicon-Ready-Classic (RRC) right?  You gonna join us in Tank Traps?  

 

The LR3 isn't currently down is it?  I think you coil-swapped it, yes?

Yes Don, the Rubi ready RRC is rolling and needs to flex its legs...I'll be there to pull you out, should it be necessary :D but I doubt you'll need a tug.


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Enrique
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1962 Series IIA Reg. Waiting to be restored :(

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1992 RRC SOLD
1995 LWB SOLD
1995 LWB RubiconReady, SOLD
1998 D1, 4.6 Relocated to KY 

1998 D1 Arles Blue. Dismantled 
06 LR3 HSE ARB bumper with Warn Winch

1992 SWB Da Yeti. Dusy Ready


#29
DiscoChef

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...and BTW, the LR3 is running and has been switched to coils and...No sir, I don't like them! The ride now is too swayie (is that even a word, lol) 

I went with the Atlantic British heavy duty set.


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Enrique
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1962 Series IIA Reg. Waiting to be restored :(

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1992 RRC SOLD
1995 LWB SOLD
1995 LWB RubiconReady, SOLD
1998 D1, 4.6 Relocated to KY 

1998 D1 Arles Blue. Dismantled 
06 LR3 HSE ARB bumper with Warn Winch

1992 SWB Da Yeti. Dusy Ready


#30
erinw.rrc

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Just came across this thread, will show you which fuses and procedure at the annual. Not bringing Maximus though (LR3) but Rangie instead. It involves two Hi Lifts and the truck being at its bump stops.

 

thank you sir!


  • DiscoChef likes this

Erin W.
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#31
Phil.

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Just came across this thread, will show you which fuses and procedure at the annual. Not bringing Maximus though (LR3) but Rangie instead. It involves two Hi Lifts and the truck being at its bump stops.

 

ooh is this when we can play "spin the wheel of rovers" to select which LR3/LR4 we can try this with? 


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#32
DHappel

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The Rover goes up

The Rover goes down

Spinning gap tool, round and round...

 

 

(wow, that was bad.  I should be ashamed of myself)


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Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#33
aebrownleeiv

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The Rover goes up

The Rover goes down

Spinning gap tool, round and round...

 

 

(wow, that was bad.  I should be ashamed of myself)

Keep your day job Dre ;)


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#34
RON CT110

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I'm looking over some technical things we want to know before the Rebelle Rally and one of those is what to do if the air suspension goes out.  

 

I know this happened to Enrique on his LR3 in Baja. 

 

Twice, and in the same spot in Baja.  How likely is that!  Must have been the gravitational pull of the Pacifico! :)

 

Ok, I was not any help, but good to know way around this (since I also own a LR3)


Edited by RON CT110, 06 October 2017 - 09:14 AM.

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