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Options beside Johnson lift rods and GAP tool?

- - - - - lift rods

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7 replies to this topic

#1
jlmoped

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Besides the Johnson lift rods and the GAP IID tool, has anyone tried any gadget like the MudTech Anitas and Llams height controller?

 

For the lift rods, the oem is plastic/rubber, is there any advantage to switch to stainless steel?  Since the sensors are plastic, it seems an overkill to make the rods stronger than the sensor arms.  Has anyone tried to home-make the rods?

 

Thanks,

Julian


Julian

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#2
Phil.

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first rods to hit the market was developed by NCLR member sasquatch who made adjustable rods. he developed it on his LR3 and then confirmed fitment on my RRS over a few beers years ago. i still have these, but stopped using them since i got the GAP tool. been meaning to experiment to see how much lift i can get using rods + GAP, but i have clearance issues with the baja rack so haven't bothered.

 

a few of the RRS owners on RR.net have the llams tool. differentiator i see is being able to adjust height on the move with a quick flip of a switch.

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#3
AdvRovr

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I believe Don Happel has tried the LLAMS kit. 

I agree with you about concern with the aftermarket rods being "too strong" and breaking the sensor arms, but I haven't ever actually heard of that happening so I'm going to guess it's only a theoretical problem. 

 

 

I have rods (Proud Rhino) and the GAP tool and use them together. With the rods on, it's just a bit taller than off-road height, and I didn't want to drive around like that all the time. So, I have a setting that brings it back down a ways, and another setting that extends it even further than with the rods. Gives me quite a bit more flexibility that way. If I were changing settings on a regular basis, I'd probably want the LLAMS for easier adjustments, but the GAP is pretty good. 


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#4
DHappel

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Yes, I have a LLAMS installed on my LR3 currently.  It was pretty cool for a while but later had a freak-out and sent the suspension to max lift all the time.  I didn't have time to sort it out at that point so installed the included by-pass plug and have left it that way since.  In fact, I sorta forgot it was there what with picking up the D1 this year.

 

It's pretty cool and I don't think my problem is serious.  I probably just need to re-calibrate it.  


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#5
DiscoChef

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I have a set of the original Sasquash (sp?) Rods that fellow club member developed in the early days. No longer need them because I switched to coils recently. I can bring them to the Annual if you want to try them out. Willing to sell.


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#6
DHappel

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For the lift rods, the oem is plastic/rubber, is there any advantage to switch to stainless steel?  Since the sensors are plastic, it seems an overkill to make the rods stronger than the sensor arms.  Has anyone tried to home-make the rods?

 

Thanks,

Julian

You're right that there's no real need for the rods to be SS as the stock ones are plastic, however they should be stiff and should have a snug fit on the sensor/arm pins.  Not super tight, just no slop.  You could certainly make your own; I've heard of some people cutting the stock rods and re-glueing them shorter to get lift.  The key is figuring out how much shorter to make them.  You'd have to come up with something adjustable so you could dial in the correct length for the lift you wanted.  

 

Sasquatch was (according to NCLR lore) the first.  Johnson is the most popular.  Lucky8 has their Proud Rhino brand.  Green Oval has one with 3 different holes for different height lifts.  None of them are very expensive and all are easy to install.  I don't see any real advantage to trying to make your own.


Don
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#7
jlmoped

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I installed DIY lift rods, standard height is higher now, but it won't go into off-road height.  The display said I was in Extended Mode.  So does that mean I have exceeded the maximum height?  Do I need to lower the height with the GAP tool?  Below are the GAP tool measurements before lifting.  Does it look like it was already raised to higher than stock height so I can't lift it anymore?

 

Can you check your GAP Tool measurements for me?  I recall GAP Tool manual said the maximum value is 255 mm.  Passenger Front 212 + 54 = 266, which is larger than the maximum value.  Maybe that caused it to not go into off-road mode?

 

Calibration Live Values:

Driver Front: 219 mm,  Passenger Front: 212 mm

Driver Rear: 217 mm,  Passenger Rear: 225 mm

 

Access Height:

DF: -52  PF: -43

DR: -52  PR: -52

 

Normal Height:

DF: -1  PF: 7

DR: -9  PR: -8

 

Off-road Height:

DF: 50  PF: 54

DR: 38  PR: 36


Julian

'13 LR4 - with some extra stuff

KI6AWY


#8
DHappel

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Well, right now my LR3 has about 5' of lift, as it's currently on the lift in the shop and will be there for some time while I sort out some much needed deferred maintenance.  


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock





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