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Limb Risers?

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17 replies to this topic

#1
gurka

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Looking for parts kit and advice on how to build. I keep reading the cabling is hard to acquire - any suggestions on what should be used and where to acquire it? I'm seeing 3/16" aircraft grade cable is recommended but again, hard to get in small lengths.

 

 



#2
Trail Tailor

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Looking for parts kit and advice on how to build. I keep reading the cabling is hard to acquire - any suggestions on what should be used and where to acquire it? I'm seeing 3/16" aircraft grade cable is recommended but again, hard to get in small lengths.

 

LIMB RISER

 

J


Jason

 

66052.jpg?1477718151

 

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#3
DHappel

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You can buy stainless cable at Home Despot by the foot, along with clamps, turnbuckles, etc.

I probably even have some laying around from past projects.

Don
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#4
gurka

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Yeah I prefer to make my own like what the OverlandBound guy did here - just need to find the cable. Will check HD.

 

 

thanks


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#5
Trail Tailor

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Home Depot, McMaster-Carr should have everything for a DIY project.


Jason

 

66052.jpg?1477718151

 

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#6
lithium1330

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Yup, I’ve see cables at HD and Lowes sold by the foot. Though, I am not sure if they’re stainless, and gauge size may be limited.
I have found stainless ones online - ordered a few ft of it to fix my kayak.

I’ve been thinking of making one myself, using small clamps holding the ends, and those turn buckle tensioner to pull the lines.

Here are pictures of parts you need. Btw, this assumes tubular bars; that’s what I have. But I’m self-centered. ;)
The roll bar clamps are from amazon $12/pair, turnbuckle from e-rigging.com, cable & clamp from lowes.com. Looks like they only sell galvanized parts. Personally, I’d prob go stainless.

Attached Files


Edited by lithium1330, 04 October 2017 - 09:42 AM.

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Chris

#7
gurka

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Thanks for the McMaster-Carr recommendation - they have the cables in shorter length pieces. Never heard of this site before, very nice.


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#8
Trail Tailor

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Thanks for the McMaster-Carr recommendation - they have the cables in shorter length pieces. Never heard of this site before, very nice.

 

They are a little higher than Home Depot etc.. but you can buy damn near anything from them. Grainger is another industrial supply. There are two or three more as well. Glad they worked out for you.

 

J


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66052.jpg?1477718151

 

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#9
gurka

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I'm actually now not sure what to order from the McMaster-Carr site. Can someone help me define all the parts I would need from them? I would prefer to order everything from them directly. I'm not sure which cable is appropriate as they have these numbers in front which I have no clue what they mean.

 

Note, I have a Rhino Roof Rack and an ARB winch bumper (no winch installed) to connect the cables to the truck and roof.

 

thanks


Edited by gurka, 04 October 2017 - 11:52 AM.


#10
lithium1330

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just watched the Overland Bound vid...

I'm not familiar with the Rhino rack... though, I wouldn't drill holes into a perfectly good metal tube, as Michael did in vid.  

If you don't plan to drill holes, you'll need to get some tube clamps I mentioned earlier. THis allows you to secure the cable wire to your bumper and also your rack - assuming you don't have tie down points already. You could also possible make your own tube clamps with hose clamps for less $ - just wrap the tubes in some silicone tape to prevent paint marring. 

 

Have a look at the kit Front Runner sells... it has a list of included components you can use as shopping list. 

https://www.frontrun...deflectors.html

 

g'luck!


Chris

#11
AlysonH

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A while back I saw a really nice setup one of the guys in the club had on his P38. He had the cables looped around the roof rack and clamped together near the top. He also has something that allowed him to release the tension on the cables up near the roof rack, so he could remove them if necessary to do work on his truck. It was pretty cool and how I'd do it if I added them to my truck. I think he's up in the Sacramento area and that probably doesn't help anyone at all, but this thread reminded me of his setup.
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#12
DHappel

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Stainless cable, 1/8"

http://www.homedepot...10050/204471267

 

Stainless thimble and clamp set - need 2

http://www.homedepot...43074/205883048

 

Stainless loop/hook turnbuckle (5-pac shown, you need 2)

http://www.homedepot...894-0/203810512

 

Basically just walk into HD and find the cable and rope section.  They'l have spools of SS wire rope and you can just pick the size you like, measure out however much you need, and cut it off.  Based on the size wire you use, pick up some clamps and thimbles.  Then grab a couple turnbuckles.  I think you'll want the style with a loop on one end and hook on the other to make them easier to mount.

 

You'll need to figure out how you want to attach them to your bull bar and rack - the tube clamps shown above are a good idea but you could simply drill a hole and use SS eye bolt and nylock nut.  

 

Keep in mind you will probably have to remove or at least loosen them significantly to open the hood which is one of the reasons I've never run them.  I've seen some kits that have a quick-release cam instead of the turnbuckle to that end.

 

If you want help with it I'm happy to give you a hand; I think I even have some of this stuff sitting around my shop from an old landscape project, but I won't be home until Monday.  

 

Lots of ways to skin this cat.


Don
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#13
AdvRovr

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Keep in mind you will probably have to remove or at least loosen them significantly to open the hood which is one of the reasons I've never run them.  I've seen some kits that have a quick-release cam instead of the turnbuckle to that end.

I think for the D1/2 you can route them far enough to the side that it won't interfere with hood opening. 

All Range Rovers, plus the LR3/4, have the clamshell hood design that makes it a whole lot harder to get the cables far enough out of the way.

 

The Classic is doable with a wide rack like the Brownchurch, but everything newer looks like a PITA. 

 

Some day, I may play with the Sport a bit to see if I could do risers, but that's pretty low on the priority list. 


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#14
lithium1330

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this thread got me thinking of tackling this project... But, with my luck, I'll find that stubby limb that will ride 1/2 way up the cable with some tensioned/force, and just slips off to whack my windscreen. 


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Chris

#15
GraemeWare

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I always use one of these to cut my cheese .... I guess some of you have larger blocks of cheese than I do ....

 

https://target.scene...=1560&fmt=pjpeg

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


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#16
DHappel

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I always use one of these to cut my cheese .... I guess some of you have larger blocks of cheese than I do ....

 

https://target.scene...=1560&fmt=pjpeg

 

Regards,

 

Graeme

So you're saying you're not the Big Cheese?


Don
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'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#17
DiscoDavis

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Unless you have the steel tube unimog style limb "breakers", you will want to have some spring in the cable.

 

The trophy limb lifters used what appeared to be a sailing cable device to both tension and spring load the cables. Called a Camel-Lever in this instance. For a D1 it always appears that to open the hood the cables get in the way and so are unbuckled when hood is opened. 

 

http://www.bushcable...mel-trophy-set/


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:lr:

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#18
aebrownleeiv

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Unless you have the steel tube unimog style limb "breakers", you will want to have some spring in the cable.

 

The trophy limb lifters used what appeared to be a sailing cable device to both tension and spring load the cables. Called a Camel-Lever in this instance. For a D1 it always appears that to open the hood the cables get in the way and so are unbuckled when hood is opened. 

 

http://www.bushcable...mel-trophy-set/

I find it hard to believe a Unimog needs anything special to "break" things LOL. I grew up with them, they're just an odd looking tank. 






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