I prefer to drain the oil via gravity if I can but the suction devices are OK and get 90% of it.
As for a reminder, I'm not sure if the LR4 has one or not. The LR3 does not have one. I believe the LR3 is 7500 miles, as is my van. Both of them get changed at 5000 because a-changing more often isn't going to hurt anything but your wallet and b- it's just easier to remember.
Asking about oil is like asking about politics or religion - everybody has an opinion and seldom is it backed up by any facts. I'm sure Land Rover has a special 'Land Rover Only ' branded oil that they recommend as do many manufacturers - that way they can keep you coming to them for a heavily marked up product. However they can't deny a warranty claim for oil so long as you are using an oil that meets the API standard specified in your owner's manual and is the correct weight. I'd have to look but I'd guess the LR4 calls for an SM oil - you'll find that on the 'donut' on the bottle. Note that the newer API ratings generally supersede the older ones, so SN replaces and can be used in anything before it like SJ, SM, etc. At least for anything remotely recent. There are specialty situations with older cars or flat tappet cams, etc.
Brand is where the big arguments come in. A lot of Rover people swear by Shell Rotella or Chevron Dello - those are heavy duty diesel oils that are also rated for gasoline motors (CJ/SM usually where C is for compression ignition and S for spark). But I would NOT recommend that for a modern motor like your 5.0. In general, any good name brand oil and filter will be fine so long as you keep up on the change interval. I wouldn't recommend wal-mart oil and filters even though they may be fine, but Castrol, Valvoline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobile1, etc should all be fine for your application. For filters I happen to use a lot of WIX or Napa Gold filters just because of my business so I also run them on my vehicles, but filters are like a lot of things and are often the same part sold under a lot of different brand names. I tend to stay away from Fram but that's really down to a single bad experience I had with them years ago. Of course I recently had 2 Wix filters fail on boat transmissions so who am I to talk?
I can't tell you the capacity on the 5.0 (and I hate the lack of dipsticks on modern cars - that's just stupid) but your manual should tell you or at least Google. BTW, without a dipstick how will you use the vacuum pump to suck the oil out? The ones I have go down the dipstick tube. You won't be able to stick the tube down the oil fill cap to reach the pan.
On the wrench, I really don't like the type you linked as they only fit a single filter and can't be used for anything else. I have a full set of Channel Lock filter wrenches that I use for work since I cover everything from tiny little filters to huge ones almost the size of a 2 liter bottle. The smaller pair (9") should work well for you. When using this type wrench the key is not to grab the filter in the middle where you can crush it. Try to grab close to the base or if you can't get it there very close to the end - either area is much stronger than the middle of the can.
https://www.amazon.c...k filter pliers
I'm happy to help you do the oil change at my place if you like. We can put it on the lift and drain the oil that way instead of sucking it out from the top. I prefer this as it lets me see if there's anything scary on the drain plug when I pull it out. Any metal or water will show up here first.
Edited by DHappel, 13 November 2017 - 04:35 PM.