Jump to content

Welcome to NCLR - Northern California Land Rover Club
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. This message will be removed once you have signed in.
Login to Account Create an Account
Photo

Body shops...don't trust 'em!

- - - - -

  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1
DHappel

DHappel

    NCLR Trip Ambassador

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,312 posts
  • Walnut Grove, CA
  • KK6TBH
  • '07 LR3 with stuff
  • '96 D1 Roadster
  • '94 RRC
  • '96 D1

I finally got around to taking the LR3 in to get the windshield and overhead panoramic glass replaced.  Dropped it off at Cook's Collision on 11/17...got it back today, 12/7.

 

It took so long because apparently they had ordered the wrong parts once and broke some trim once, but that's not the complaint

 

When I picked it up, I found all sorts of fun things.

 

The ham radio was on for some reason (?) but the antenna was laying in the back seat.  I'm sure they removed the antenna for easier access when installing the windshield, but why not put it back on?  Simple oversight I guess?  It just screws on, only takes a minute.  The scary part is why did they have my radio on, and did they try to key it up w/o the antenna on?  That's how you blow out the finals on a radio.

 

I see my mag mount cell antenna isn't where I had mounted it when I dropped it off, and the cable to it is half-ass zip tied in a different routing that I had.  Fine.  I'll fix that when I get home.  It's just some zip ties.

 

I also noticed the 12v meter I have at the cargo compartment wasn't working.  It's powered by an auxiliary fuse block I have installed in the little pocket on the driver's side back there, where the seat belt retractor lives.  Fuse was good and after popping the trim off I found the meter was still connected, so maybe it coincidentally died while they were working around it.  Hmmmm....

 

My tablet mount, which is a windshield suction cup style augmented by a couple self adhesive zip tie mounts stuck to the dash is laying in the passenger seat.  This wouldn't be so annoying, but instead of just cutting the zip ties to release it they yanked the self adhesive mounts off the dash leaving adhesive residue behind and destroying them.   Again, not really a big deal as they're very cheap things but why would you rip them off the dash instead of just cutting the zip ties?  And why wouldn't you put them back?  I actually had extra mounting tabs in the truck and I've already fixed this.

 

When I get in the truck to leave, the seat belt shoulder height adjuster is all the way down and won't lock in place, plus the seat belt won't retract.  This one is where I finally make them actually fix it - this could be a legitimate safety issue.  They took the truck back to the shop and brought it back out in maybe 20 minutes with the seat belt working correctly.

 

The truck was also on the reserve fuel light when I picked it up.  They did offer to put fuel in it but I just wanted to leave.  I figured I must have dropped it off low on fuel or something.  Checking the mileage in/mileage out though, I see they put 271 miles on it.  I know they took it to a specialist glass shop for the actual glass work, but wtf???

 

On the drive home, I start hearing assorted small rattles from the roof rack.  Once home I realize they had cut several of the zip ties that hold my decking in place on the rack, letting it rattle around.

 

Once home I started by re-routing and securing the cell antenna, then I re-secured the rack decking.  I also re-installed my tablet mount.  Then I decided to see what was up with my rear volt meter.  I double check the fuse at the rear mounted fuse block - it's good.  Then I double check the power to the block itself and get a fat zero - ???  OK, then I head up to the engine bay where another fuse supplies the 6 gauge power wire that goes to that rear fuse block and find it's blown.  I try another and it blows as soon as I put it in.

 

This means that big 'ol 6 ga wire is shorted somewhere between the battery and the rear fuse block.  I start checking and find this:

 

20171207_181056-M.jpg

 

That's my power wire where it's been pinched near the rear seat.  Looks like they got a little sloppy when putting the trim back on.  Luckily I had properly fused it or a wire that size would likely have burnt the truck to the ground.

 

 


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#2
DHappel

DHappel

    NCLR Trip Ambassador

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,312 posts
  • Walnut Grove, CA
  • KK6TBH
  • '07 LR3 with stuff
  • '96 D1 Roadster
  • '94 RRC
  • '96 D1

As for Cook's Collision, I'll give them a D.   They could have done worse and gotten an F, but they certainly didn't meet even 'average' expectations to get to a C.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#3
DHappel

DHappel

    NCLR Trip Ambassador

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,312 posts
  • Walnut Grove, CA
  • KK6TBH
  • '07 LR3 with stuff
  • '96 D1 Roadster
  • '94 RRC
  • '96 D1

The real reason I wanted to post this is to remind you to properly fuse your wiring.  I've seen people install fuse blocks in the rear of a truck similar to how mine is - this is a good thing as it lets you fuse all your circuits for protection.  But I've also seen people forget to fuse the main wire that supplies power to that auxilery block, or maybe install a fuse but put it at the end of the wire near the back of the truck, leaving the whole length of the wire unprotected.  Had I done that, I wouldn't have an LR3 now.

 

The Coast Guard's requirement for wiring says you should have circuit protection (fuse, breaker) within 6" of the power source (battery).  Many boats don't actually meet this requirement, but this is a good example of why you always fuse as close to the battery as possible to avoid unprotected wire runs.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#4
Elherbinator

Elherbinator

    Driver

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 116 posts
  • San jose
  • Discovery 2
Is there a simple way to calculate what size fuses to be using for different applications? I haven't added fuses to anything that didn't already come in a kit or something.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

#5
lithium1330

lithium1330

    NCLR BOD Member

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 558 posts
  • San Jose
  • KM6FDG
  • Defender 90 NAS #0032

Is there a simple way to calculate what size fuses to be using for different applications? I haven't added fuses to anything that didn't already come in a kit or something.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Blue Sea has good guidance on 12v DC wiring on wire gauge size, fuse size and run length... https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1441 and https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437

And run the fuse close to the battery. 


  • DHappel and Elherbinator like this
Chris

#6
DHappel

DHappel

    NCLR Trip Ambassador

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,312 posts
  • Walnut Grove, CA
  • KK6TBH
  • '07 LR3 with stuff
  • '96 D1 Roadster
  • '94 RRC
  • '96 D1
I was going to reference that exact page. :)

West Marine also has a pretty handy chart on current drop vs wire size vs length.
https://www.westmari...ze-And-Ampacity

Edited by DHappel, 07 December 2017 - 10:27 PM.

Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock


#7
AdvRovr

AdvRovr

    NCLR Treasurer

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,339 posts
  • Lathrop
  • K6ADV
  • 97 Range Rover 4.0

Wow. Just wow. 

 

I get that people can "always do worse", but that's a solid F job there. I hope you send all that to corporate. 


Chad // Instagram: @AdvRovr
2009 Range Rover Sport // 2007 Mercedes GL320 Diesel // 2001 BMW 330Ci // 1996 Triumph Tiger 900

"Can you make it work?" - "Made by the English...let's not get our hopes up."


#8
DiscoDavis

DiscoDavis

    Driver

  • NCLR Club Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 360 posts
  • East Bay, CA
  • 2006 Discovery 3
  • 1995 Discovery
  • 1990 110

Mention a yelp review or other etc... 

 

Only ever went to them once (concord), to replace the LR3 badging with DISCOVERY, they must have been drunk when installing it, wanted to charge me, and charge again to fix. Brought it up with the manager or whatever that Cole European throws them a lot of business, and I was close with their service guys at the time. One phone call from service advisor was all it took to nail down an apology and a fix for free from them. 

 

Sucks that a fuse is all that stopped disaster on your car though...


:lr:

2006 Discovery 3(Build Thread)

1995 Discovery 

1990 110

 

Instagram: CondorDavis

 

23669857085_fe30f0934c.jpg


#9
RedRover

RedRover

    NCLR Club Member

  • NCLR Web Administrator
  • 3,458 posts
  • Santa Clara, CA
  • KJ6MQI
  • 1992 Range Rover Classic
  • 2012 Range Rover
  • 2012 Land Rover LR4

Don, good call out.  As you mentioned I have installed the Blue Sea box and ran some reasonably substantial-gauge wire up to the battery; I need to double-check how I finished it off.

 

I've been wanting to clean up the engine compartment on RedRover, including my rats' nest of wiring jobs... guess I'll add this to the laundry list as well.


Jared (KJ6MQI)
1992 Range Rover Classic - Portofino Red
2012 Range Rover HSE - Santorini Black

 


#10
DHappel

DHappel

    NCLR Trip Ambassador

  • NCLR BOD Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,312 posts
  • Walnut Grove, CA
  • KK6TBH
  • '07 LR3 with stuff
  • '96 D1 Roadster
  • '94 RRC
  • '96 D1

Don, good call out.  As you mentioned I have installed the Blue Sea box and ran some reasonably substantial-gauge wire up to the battery; I need to double-check how I finished it off.

 

I've been wanting to clean up the engine compartment on RedRover, including my rats' nest of wiring jobs... guess I'll add this to the laundry list as well.

I find there's something cathartic about ripping out all the old messy wiring and starting from scratch building it up nice and neat.  As you add things over the years you tend to just install them here and there and it gets to be a mess.  When you do everything at once you can lay it out nicely and label everything so you can actually work on it in the future.

 

I actually just picked up a job doing a complete re-wire from scratch on a sailboat up in Napa.  Fortunately it's largely stripped down so there is access.  I'm sorta looking forward to doing it from the breaker panel out.


Don
'07 LR3 HSE/HD - slightly non-stock

'96 D1 - even more non-stock





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users