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Rotate full size spare tire?

- - - - - tire rotation spare tire

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29 replies to this topic

#1
jlmoped

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I have 265/60R18 BFG AT KO2, the full size spare is the same tire.  Should I rotate the tires every 5000 mileages or so?  And should I rotate the full size spare as well?  If yes, do I need to keep the spare rolling in one direction only?  For example, only rotate it to the driver front or driver rear?  BFG AT is not a directional tire, but I have heard a long time ago, once a radial tire is used to rotate in one direction, it is not good to make it rotate in the opposite direction.  Is that true?

 

If do a 5 tires rotation, is there a recommended sequence?

 

Thanks.


Julian

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#2
DHappel

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I like to do a 5-tire rotation on my LR3.  With modern non-directional tires you don't need to worry about the side of the vehicle; it can be run in any position.

 

If you google it you'll find lots of variations.  It's not critical which version you use so long as you pick one and stay with it so you keep all the tires moving to all locations evenly.  Print out a pic and just stick it in the glove box or tack it up in the garage to refer to ... 5 tire is much harder for me to remember than 4 for whatever reason.

 

 

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Don
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#3
GraemeWare

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I have 265/60R18 BFG AT KO2, the full size spare is the same tire.  Should I rotate the tires every 5000 mileages or so?  And should I rotate the full size spare as well?  If yes, do I need to keep the spare rolling in one direction only?  For example, only rotate it to the driver front or driver rear?  BFG AT is not a directional tire, but I have heard a long time ago, once a radial tire is used to rotate in one direction, it is not good to make it rotate in the opposite direction.  Is that true?

 

If do a 5 tires rotation, is there a recommended sequence?

 

Thanks.

 

Most tire manufacturer's websites give you a four and five tire rotation sequence that must be followed for warranty reasons.

 

Personally I don't rotate tires, as the wear pattern tells you exactly what is going on with regard to alignment.  By rotating you never see a bearing or bush that is causing wear in one location.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


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Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#4
DHappel

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For kicks I looked at the BFG site - they only show 4-wheel and 6 wheel (dualy) patterns.  I suppose so few vehicles these days come with a full size spare (if they come with any spare at all) that most people don't need to think about it.


Don
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#5
GraemeWare

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For kicks I looked at the BFG site - they only show 4-wheel and 6 wheel (dualy) patterns.  I suppose so few vehicles these days come with a full size spare (if they come with any spare at all) that most people don't need to think about it.

 

And interestingly, they no longer do a left-right rotation, they just have front to rear keeping tires on the same side.

 

Regards,

 

Graeme


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Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#6
GraemeWare

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And interestingly, they no longer do a left-right rotation, they just have front to rear keeping tires on the same side.

 

 

Did BFG and Michelin become one?  The website animations look spookily identical .....

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#7
jlmoped

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Yep, that's is why I asked the question.  Rotating front to back is simple.  I am uncertain about cross rotation.


Julian

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#8
GraemeWare

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Did BFG and Michelin become one?  The website animations look spookily identical .....

 

Graeme

 

https://www.tirebuye...tation-patterns

 

And here is the old-fashioned way that I was taught ....

 

Graeme


Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#9
GraemeWare

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https://www.tirebuye...tation-patterns

 

And here is the old-fashioned way that I was taught ....

 

Graeme

 

The diagram on the right of this one:

 

https://www.tirebuye...30317101086.jpg


Edited by GraemeWare, 13 December 2017 - 05:35 PM.

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#10
jlmoped

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Tonight I finally got around to rotate the tires, but without success.  I was a tough time un-mounting the passenger rear wheel, but with some elbow grease I was able to get it off.  But the passenger front wheel would not move at all.  And yes, I did remove the wheel lugs :)

 

I have the Compomotive, it must have a very tight fit.  So how do I get them off?  Once they are off, should I spray WD-40 on the inside of the wheel hub or shave the paint off the wheel hub to make some room?


Julian

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#11
Elherbinator

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Sledge to sidewall should do the trick. I've never had to do it, but I figure some grease rub around should help keep it from seizing up.


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Edited by Elherbinator, 11 January 2018 - 08:32 PM.


#12
GraemeWare

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You could use the old way of doing it. Loosen each lug one turn and drive a short way. Once off, use Wurth aluminum anti-seize on the mating surfaces to stop them binding again. RRCs are known for doing this, and I expect it is the same issue.

Graeme


Edited by GraemeWare, 14 January 2018 - 08:29 PM.

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...


#13
lithium1330

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i use the same rotation as illustrated in Don's post. 


Chris

#14
DHappel

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I haven't had one truly stuck on the hub, but I have had them stick somewhat.  Generally nothing a kick to the tire wouldn't free up. 


Don
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#15
jlmoped

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I wiggled it as hard as I could to get the passenger rear wheel off, but the passenger front would not move at all.  I hit the inner side wallwith a rubber mallet and turned the wheel back and forth, it wouldn't budge at all.  I will try the loosen the wheel lugs and drive cross country method.  If that doesn't work, can someone winch my wheel off? :)

 

I ordered a tube of anti-seize compound from Amazon.  The wheel that I could remove, it was a very tight fit.  Even with the anti-seize compound, I think I will still have a tough time getting it off next time.  Will it be a good idea to shave off a bit a material from the wheel inner hub?  If yes, how?


Julian

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#16
Elherbinator

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I wiggled it as hard as I could to get the passenger rear wheel off, but the passenger front would not move at all. I hit the inner side wallwith a rubber mallet and turned the wheel back and forth, it wouldn't budge at all. I will try the loosen the wheel lugs and drive cross country method. If that doesn't work, can someone winch my wheel off? :)

I ordered a tube of anti-seize compound from Amazon. The wheel that I could remove, it was a very tight fit. Even with the anti-seize compound, I think I will still have a tough time getting it off next time. Will it be a good idea to shave off a bit a material from the wheel inner hub? If yes, how?

I wouldn't try winching it off. If it is really seized you could just end up yanking your vehicle off the stand and make a mess. Just try banging from the outside of the tire. You'll be able to take a bigger swing at it. I also would avoid re-machining anything. I'd give the anti seize stuff a try first. When was the last time the wheel was removed?


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#17
DHappel

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While I assume the winching comment was in jest just in case I'm wrong Elhrbinator is right - don't actually do that.

 

Also, Rover wheels are hub-centric; they are supposed to be a snug fit on the hub so not a good idea to grind that open.  Now it's not supposed to be a press fit such that you need special tools to remove it so I'm not sure what's going on with yours; they're normally not that hard to get off!


Don
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#18
AdvRovr

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It could actually be a manufacturing defect by Compomotive - perhaps the grinding was a bit uneven or some excess powdercoat in the hub. 

 

The winching comment brings up a good general wrenching tip though: Steady force requires more force to unstick something than sharp blows. Some sharp hits will be much more effective than increasingly applying steady force, and is less likely to damage stuff. 


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#19
Elherbinator

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It could actually be a manufacturing defect by Compomotive - perhaps the grinding was a bit uneven or some excess powdercoat in the hub.

The winching comment brings up a good general wrenching tip though: Steady force requires more force to unstick something than sharp blows. Some sharp hits will be much more effective than increasingly applying steady force, and is less likely to damage stuff.

I broken many a car part via the sharp blows


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#20
GraemeWare

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Also, Rover wheels are hub-centric


Can you add "late model" to that please?

Regards,

Graeme

Graeme Ware -- San Carlos, CA

1990 Range Rover Classic - LT230 Transfer box, Warn winch, 2" lift, 235/85-16 Dunlop MUD Rovers, "Blue Submarine"
1996 Discovery 1 (R380 Manual Transmission, Ashcroft under-drive, RoverWare rear bumper, 33x12.5-15 BFG ATs) -- we call her "Katrina" -- Fordyce 7.5 mile survivor
1999 Discovery 2 (D1 CDL Linkage, 265/75-16 BFG A/T KO, RoverWare front and rear bumper)
1993 Jaguar XJS convertible; 1971 Triumph GT6; 1959 Morris Minor convertible, Tesla Model 3,
other assorted British pot metal ...





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