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Project "SPOT" D-90 Restoration
Posted 08 July 2008 - 09:10 PM
Looking over the rig at purchase. I knew immediately that it had spent most of its life in the UK. Bill and I decided to do a complete frame up.
You can see in the initial pictures that with the frame “repair” that was performed and the body rust that we definitely had a project on our hands.
Got it over to our shop and started tinkering with ideas on what will be needed to complete the project.
To make the teardown brief, attached is a summary of pictures of the teardown to the frame. Removed the front clip, which will be put away until paint as will the windscreen and roof assembly. The doors and front bulkhead are a loss unfortunately as they have already once been “repaired”
The one item I was expecting to not suffer the same fate was the rear Tub assembly. Boy were we wrong! Its going to take some work to bring this back to life. Still debating on if its worth it.
I am currently categorizing parts as well as stripping, plating (Zink, Anodizing , GALVI) and Powder-coating while we wait for our brand new Galvi frame which is hopefully expected for the end of this month, as well as a BUNCH of other goodies which will arrive in the same road trip
I will try my best to keep this thread currently being updated with our progress. Things are kinda slow right now as we wait for parts.
Posted 24 August 2008 - 10:01 AM
Bill and I flew out to denver on friday to meet with Jim Pendy(Pendy Imports) We met Jim at his buddys shop, Keith with Rover Tracks. He had a loading dock to get my Galvi roller frame with Bills 2.8TD with the custom tranny and T/C mounted on it, into the back of the moving van. We rented a 16" Penske moving van to get em all in there.
The trip home, 1,290 Miles, 20ish hours straight :eek: no sleep, just stoping enough for snacks and Gas. We got back into town yesterday afternoon..
This is what our goodies looked like when we arrived.
My new Galvi frame, attached is bills brand spankin new power stroke 2.8TD
We where able to fit it in there well once we drilled a few holes through the steel beams of the moving vans floor to hook the straps in... oops
Was able so snap a shot of Keith's Awesome 110!
We got everything unloaded today and into our shop. We got some doors from Pendy in better condition than the current ones. He also brought along a bulkhead for us to see if we wanted to try to make work... i think i have decided on getting one of pendys Brand new Galvi Bulkheads he has laying around, so that is on its way on a pallet.
Hopefully work will commence this week on getting the 300TDI out of bill CT110 and throwing this Awesome 2.8 in! the 300 will shortly be on my frame. Next on the list is building a custom exhaust system for both of these rigs.. then to get the reserve fuel tank on mine, and start routing some fuel line and changeover valves to kill time untill the suspension and lockers arrive.
Posted 31 August 2008 - 09:03 PM
After about 2 hours of disconnecting wires, fuel, coolant, cross members. It was time to see if our cherry picker was up to the task of lifting this very heavy setup.
So far so good
It was quite a task with how high we starting off with bills rig, combination of the lift and the “37s. We ended up needing to get the motor up about 6.5-7 feet to clear the front frame cross member once the weight was off the frame.
Well that was….”easy”
The motor mounts come off the 300 as it gets put aside for now… we gotz ourselves a 2.8 to stab in! Bill worked on cleaning up the wiring and put some dynomat on the bulkhead to help a little with the noise..
VOILA! Like magic…. Little fight with getting the right link on the chain for the balance, but other than that it was relatively easy. Now time for a nice custom 3.0” custom exhaust and figure out the cooling system!
Posted 31 August 2008 - 09:19 PM
Posted 22 June 2010 - 09:07 PM
I could of sworn I was just on here yesterday posting about the steps remaining on Bill’s Rig! And now here I am almost two years later!
Well I can safely say that Bill’s Rig is done and has been for a long while now. Ended up building a stainless 3” turbo back system for it and the cooling system ended up being efficient enough after fabbing up a E-Fan with in-line temp sensor. Bill Ended up ditching the 37”s with bead locks and went with more “proper” 34”s with nato wheels setup. Leaving him with the need to change from the 4:11’s to 3:80 somethings.. The Shake down runs to Hollister, Pismo, and Salt Lake City have proven that I haven’t left anything loose under there!
NOW….Back to my………..Project!
A lot has happened with moving from our small San Jose shop, to a nice 3,800sqFt shop in Gilroy.
Starting off with the rear tub/bed repair.. After 4 months of cutting,grinding,Tig welding the Bed is officially done. I decided to run dual tanks leaving me with the need to make another Diesel fill box.
I had taken measurements from Bill’s 110 and made my own box to connect up to a standard NAS rear tank. Adding the Diesel sending unit and pickup. With this rear additional tank, which now will serve as the main, I will have a total of 36 gallons capacity. That combined with the 300TDI, im hoping for some decent range between fill ups.
All of the rott from the affected areas where cut out and new panels where welded in place.
Also the door striker plates where not able to be repaired. Luckily I sourced a pair of striker plates and was able to successfully replace them. Seen in green
Since my rover is/was a RHD ROW, the tub has a bulkhead directly behing the seats, leaving me at 6’3” with no leg room. Luckily Mudd UK has a bulkhead removal/lowering Bar. That in combination with their seat frame extenders, should leave me with room to breathe/stretch
The floor of the rear tub was rotted beyond repair. I sourced a floor pan from a 1965 Series rover(think it was a 100”). Amazingly enough the pieces are identical in shape and fit in a 1990 tub perfectly! About what felt like a million, maybe two million solid aircraft Rivets later the bed was completed and sent off to paint!
All steel pieces that where removed where powder coated or Galvi Dipped like the bed capping pieces which are going to be kept unpainted
The entire interior, Tub,seat box,floor pans are being treated with spray in bedliner
The hood frame was installed after the under side of the hood was shot but prior to the topcoat allowing me to make sure my rivets where painted.
Also hood protection is fitted
Fenders also have the wing protection treatment
Tomorrow night, hopefully I will get some time to continue with where I am with suspension, fuel, Brake lines ETC.
Posted 25 June 2010 - 06:13 PM
nice work Sean, say I'm in Gilroy quite often now for the next month or so and would like to drop by and see this up close
Sure thing! I work in Morgan Hill M-F and usually swing by the shop after work. I also try to make it there one day on the weekends..
ill PM you my number
Posted 25 June 2010 - 08:39 PM
I decided to give Rovertym “engineering” a try on their 3” Lift setup with the drop radius arm’s, trailing arms, front and rear upper and lower shock mounts, drop panhard bar, and Bilstein 7100 series resi shocks.
Unfortunately there where unnecessary hurdles to tackle in the installation process for it to be sold as a kit, mainly the front radius arms being longer than stock creating a near clearance issue with the shock and the spring perch on the frame.
What is more frustrating to me is that EVERY bolt that was provided in this kit was NOT the correct Length or Diameter AND had the Incorrect grip range for the application it was given.
And even more frustrating than that little issue was that there where no shock mount spacers provided to center the shocks in their mounts. This meant I had to machine myself shock spacers for all of the mounts which by the way all had a different spacing gap.
Ten minuets on the phone with these guys summed up my assumptions on why I received the “kit” in this order. Three words…. “Not A Clue”
The condition of these parts provided proof that just because you can cut metal and weld it, doesn’t make you an engineer. I am just confused that I have not seen or heard anybody else that have had any fit finish/quality concerns regarding rovertym parts. Too many issues here for this to be an isolated case
But on the brighter side the trailing arms look pretty and Bilstein did their job right on these shocks!
OK I am no officially done with my rant
Luckily other pieces have gone much smoother. Since I am converting to LHD during this project a new heater box was in order to make things proper.
Also I liked the compact design and functionality of the Brake master cyl used on the newer D110, as they have eliminated the need to use any proportioning valve. With it being for a 110 I assume I will add a adjustable bias valve for when the rig is not loaded/towing a chaser. I found after the fact that for me to use this master, the 110 booster and brake pedal box assembly would also need to be updated.
here is a quick shot of the roller (kinda old pic but kinda looks the same)
Since I have decided to run dual tanks, and don’t feel like spending $1,200 on all of the Land Rover linkages and fuel changeover valves, I have come up with a nice cheap solution. A couple of hours researching Diesel Yacht fuel systems, I found a 6 Port changeover valve with OFF position for pennies in comparison.
Here is a quick mockup pic
Pic of the valve lever on the seat box
Another really cool piece that I just received is this battery master switch that I found on Hellamarine’s website. It is the exact switch that Land Rover Special Vehicles used on Bill’s CT110
All of the diesel line being used is synthetic so its bio-diesel/veg safe if I ever decide to go that route.
I had bent up some 5/16” hard line for routing over the tighter areas of the frame, keeping them attached using the plethora of BMW plastic clip retainers that I have at my disposal.
Also a 2 micron Racor fuel filter/water seperator used on commercial vehicles will be used as a post tank/pre factory filter. It’s a cool piece because if I accidently run a tank dry, I can pump/prime the system back up using this filter since the 300TDi is a siphon feed system (no in tank pumps)
I decided to use a Copper/Nickel brake line kit found on LRseries.com. (BTW they are awesome! Have everything always, and are lightyears cheaper than any US source as long as you bulk order for shipping costs) This copper kit was nice because they are easy to form by hand not really needing my line tools except for the tighter turns that where needed. They are still in mock up phase, as I still have to “pretty” them up a bit. Some can be seen in the above picture.
I have a million other things in the mix as well, Exhaust, Large front intercooler mounting, Interior, finishing body panels for paint, ETC. Hoping to keep this writeup more up to date in the future
Edited by LATEAPEX, 02 December 2010 - 12:38 PM.
Posted 26 June 2010 - 09:10 PM
we can find a better bolt for the upper shock mount
I ended up using Dash # bolts used in aerospace applications and Jet nuts. super precise sizes, grade 10+ strength and very customizable in application/size/grip range/pitch. We use them alot at work, so i had some good souces although they are waaaaay overkill for application. unfortunately the shock mounts where no where close spacing wise to allow me to use any normal (off the shelf) grip range bolt without using 1" worth of washers stacked up
Posted 29 June 2010 - 06:09 AM
Posted 26 July 2010 - 04:11 PM
So you did make some progress! Definitely looks better than when I saw it on Sat. I didn't know if I'd wasted too much of your time and kept you from achieving your goal of getting the tub mounted, but it looks like you managed!
Things went well on Sat. My main goal was to check clearances on the rear tank, lines, and wiring harness. hoping to get the floor pan beams and seat box mounted up this week. Nice meeting you!
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